Papasmurf's 07 4x4 LT Build Thread and now with more other stuff too!

Blends in with the surroundings!
Came out good Bruce! 1st Sement Camo!

 

Lol! Thanks! Hahahaha

 

looks great !

 

Pretty fckn cool... very

 

Hey buddy, I like it. I was thinking about something like this one day.

 

dude very very cool i like it!!!

 

Where is it? I can't see it?

 

Hey Bruce awesome truck and thank you again not only for the thread but taking the time to respond to my questions via PM's. I am currently dead in the water on my build waiting for shocks for my front end and springs for my rear. Any updates coming ? Are you working on your rear end ?

Love your wrap, I'm definitely going with a wrap on my build as well maybe dirt color with pinstripes lol

 

Thanks brother!!

so yeah the rear end build is coming end of june early july, I have everything in stock now. But, i dont have time... i just got the truck back from the shop for gears and rear locker install, its going in next to get the alignment sorted out, and some little minor stuff, and then the 38 gal tank is going in this weekend. So thats where im at right now

 

Very cool, did they every start shipping the 5:29's or did you just go with the 4:88's ? I have 4:88's and ARB's in my 2017 and love them, I'm going to do the same on this build.

 

Nope 4.88’s they are still dragging their feet on the bigger gears. So far feels great only 100 miles in on the break in process so

 

I hated breaking mine in but I did like Nitro said 20 miles at a time, kept it under 40mph, in 4HI so fronts would break in as well. With this next one I'm sending them off to get rem polished so I don't have to go through that crap again.

 

Ok so some updates kids

4.88 nitro gears and arb rear locker are now installed and the truck feels great.... but ran into a little issue with my coil overs.

Took a hard hit in Tundras to sedona and blew a coil over and fatigued a coil, so i knew the fronts were too soft, 600 lb springs are not enough for my style, so upgraded to a 700lb spring like @osidepunker but the king LT coils use a weird chevy spring not a 3.0 spring like all the other King products so I had Micha at Down South Motorsports rebuild my coilovers and swap my top hat and adjustment collar to a 3.0 style with a standard 700lb 3.0 coil spring. So now the truck is getting an alignment ... again, to make sure the truck is sitting level and straight with the new coil over setup, i also had him open up one of the blocked bleed valves for more flow in the coil over to soften the ride a bit on the little choppy stuff and on the street.


you can see the diff in springs and adjustment collar, interesting the smaller spring is stiffer. Also with the narrower spring there is more room next to the tie rod, which i know people have had issues with rubbing.


Already feels night and day better.

Also finished the 38 gal tank swap.. so thats done now.

I also have all my new lights and LT rear parts in the garage awaiting install in july. I cant wait to get that done

here is the link to the 38 gal tank swap

https://www.tundras.com/threads/07-14-38-gallon-tank-swap-install-thread.27144/

its sooo much bigger ( LOL thats what she said)

 

some good upgrades right here

 

yeah man, needed to increase mileage and range.. and both of these should really help with that!

 

Cool stuff right there! The 38 gal tank is really nice. Only thing is there's still +/-10 gal in the tank when the dash light comes on.

 

Very true but that still means I have a long way to go before dry plus off roading I’ll always carry my extra 2 5gal cans w me so based on rough math at 12-13 mpg (now w my new gearing) and approx 45 useable gallons of fuel I have 450-550 miles of range... and that is way better than the 250-275 miles I had before getting 9mpg w 30 ish useable

 

Yeah, that's great range. And, nice to have that fuel weight low.
I've read that the fuel pump is cooled by that +/- 10 gal that's sloshing around. Do you know if that's true?

 

Yes and no... the pump will be fine even run to dry it holds about 2 quarts in the pump housing which helps in a dry run scenario but not advisable obviously but having 2-3 gal left in the tank and you are totally safe. I wouldn’t do that often but once or twice in emergency and you will be fine the #1 part failure in the fuel system are the fuel sending unit which if fails will tel the truck it’s empty and will leave you stranded

 

Good to know, thanks.

 

Good Stuff Bruce Thank You. What was your thought process behind just doing a rear locker, was it for budget reasons or something else ? I have front and rear lockers in my 2017 but it's a glorified mall crawler and I like having it for a little extra insurance getting out of tight situations. However I have heard from some sources for heavy off road use that the front diff on our trucks is not strong enough to handle the front locker especially with the longer axles of the LT set up. Now once I heard that I called ARB and they said that was absolutely not true and they have done extensive testing on that unit under very harsh conditions without problems but that is to be expected from the manufacturer. My past experience with front lockers is they are nice to have on the rare occasions that you need them. Your group runs their trucks pretty dang hard would love to hear your thoughts on the matter.

 

LOL thats about 60 miles for me off road

Its not the front diff that weak, its an issue with IFS and a locker. I've never heard of a Tundra breaking an axle/CV, but 1st gen tundra, tacos, and runners break them all the time. The problem is that the axle and cv is not strong enough to load up on torque. So if your diff is locked and you bounce on some rocks while hard on the gas, or you have one front wheel in the air and you only have traction with the other front wheel (like the rear is caught on rocks or something) then you are basically loading up 100% torque onto one wheel and the axle or cv will snap. Also, in tight turn with a lot of torque, you can snap the cv. The 2nd gen tundra has a MUCH bigger axle and cv than the other toyota trucks so its debatable whether this is really an issue for us. But the only safe way to use a front locker is on flat ground, no tight turns, and be easy on the gas. So like if you get stuck in soft sand or mud. Or, if you're on the rocks, if you're extremely gentle with the throttle, and no sharp turns, then you might get away with it

 

Basically this is exactly what I was gonna say thanks Alex!!! Heheh but yeah as much as I’ve wheeled in the past 5-8 years I’ve never once thought boy a front locker would help here... never had a need . So just didn’t bother and the 1k$ I saved not buying one paid for my new gas tank

 

Thanks for the great info guys. Yeah that source I was speaking of specifically said it was the clamshell front diff that was the weak link. I know back in the day when I used to do a lot of wheeling in Colorado where I'm from originally, I ran a Detroit Locker up front and a Tru-Trac LSD in back those were none IFS vehicles and it was a great set up. It made getting up some of those mountain trails much easier. A lot of rock crawl guys out east here insist on front lockers as well. I'm just debating on my current build what I want to do, $1K is a chunk of change for sure.

 

Crap. All this talk about lockers just reminded me that I'm very close to 30k and need to change fluids. This was when I'd thought I'd be doing the rear diff but I'm still questioning whether I want to drop the coin (which I presently can't) or if I can get by w/o a locker.

 

Just get by without a locker. 5 years hard wheeling and I've never had to turn around because I had open diffs.

 

Saw this beast on the freeway today. Impressive!!!

 

@osidepunker im sorry what where you saying about 2nd gens never braking a CV...speak up for us people in the back

 

you did did you wave? where was I? sorry i didnt see ya