Looking at a 2001 SR5 2WD AC with topper and 225K...

The good:
All maintenance up to date and done by dealer (including the timing belt at 161K)
No rust (FL truck)
No steering play or clunks going over bumps, no play rocking the front wheels (LBJs might be ok)
Shifts fine, transmission fluid clean
Mechanically sound
Tires have plenty of life left

The bad:
225K miles
Paint (clear coat) peeling on hood roof, topper - most fixable, except the roof needs a respray as it shows rust in spots
Borla exhaust (cat back) so a bit louder than stock
Asking price $6900, could probably get it down to lower $6K

Go for it?
Yes/no/maybe?

 

V6 or V8?
If V6, manual or auto?

If it's V8, and you're saying "225k is bad", you may not be as familiar with these trucks as you think. If you haven't read the first two replies of this thread, read it to familiarize yourself, then come back: https://www.tundras.com/threads/so-you-wanna-buy-just-bought-a-1st-gen-tundra-eh.115928/

And know that's not me talking, only one person in the community can post, I'm that sucker.

And finally, when we warn you about the 'big killers' - frame rust, aftermarket LBJs, 10yr/100k+ timing belts and water pumps, old radiators - we really, really aren't kidding about those things.

And especially not the frame rust. This frame had virtually zero rust, but lo and behold, behind the wheel well splash apron, just below the master cylinder on top of the frame, two holes rusted clear thru the frame. People are GREAT at hiding it, and it's NOT always in the places you'd expect, or that you'll see. Note how clean the frame is otherwise. We've seen a solid dozen of these in the last few years, on this side or the passenger side, where the frame eventually snaps clean in half.

​

 

Thank you for the info. I did read that thread a while ago, when I just started looking.
It's the 4.7L V8, so auto. I have not inspected every inch of the frame but it's been in FL its whole life and the rust is usually not an issue here with any cars. If I decided to get it I would inspect the frame more closely. I forgot to mention - the radiator has been replaced as well.

 

If it hasn't been used to launch boats in brackish/salt water, and wasn't being driven on the beach regularly, 225k miles is nothing if it's been maintained.

The dealer-installed timing belt alone is a $2k job as they'd write it up, that's almost 1/3 of the ask price.

I think you'd be stupid to pass it up if it's cosmetically ok, rust free, and all that maintenance done. As long as you're cool with 2WD - less shit to break, if you don't absolutely need it.

 

Cosmetically it's not great - the clear is gone from the hood and the roof (both the cab and the topper) but I think wet sand and 2K clear would bring it back a bit. Interior is clean, no grease stains or any other kind of stains, neither on the seats nor the carpet. Headliner is clean. Seems like it has not been abused. Needs a few minor things like the window latches on the rear doors, struts for the upper/glass trunk lift on the topper, and things like that. Most of the things it needs is just age, not abuse.

 

Yeah, clear coat is normal, especially on red and green as I’m sure you know. Sand, base coat, clear. Or sand, any coat, smooth, and vinyl wrap.

 

Could always bedline it too
That’s a fun option

 

Thanks @shifty` and @Nicklovin for the replies, info, and encouragement! Got it a few hours ago. Love me some old Tundras!

 

Pics, when you can!!

 

Of course... just following protocol:

https://www.tundras.com/threads/not-hiding-anything.162139/