General Turbocharger Thread (formerly "Turbo Charging A Tundra!")

If your thinking Walbro 450 (hellcat walbro burns out) the model 267 fits insidevthe ffv canister. The FFV canister has a bigger venturi system that keeps up with the walbro. Or you can copy @armyoffoo setup with the radium version of a venturi.
Seems like you got your bases covered.

 

Likely going with the new DW 430c that DW says should fit. Jesse has been tracking it for a while and it was something we were hoping was going to be ready last year, but wasn't. We're working through all of that now, but the flow rates are impressive and it is a direct competitor to the Walbro.

Worst case scenario, another pump swap to the Walbro. Best case scenario, another proven option for the group.

Jesse will be hands on with the install, and with his direct lines to DW, Im onboard with giving it a shot. We have the Walbro install links printed out for reference. I don't think anything changes there except for the hardware in the tank. We'll be getting the 8an through the bulk head just the same and we'll be bypassing the in-tank FPR. The amount of knowledge on this forum makes these hardware swaps almost too easy because the hard stuff is pretty universal and well sorted out.

Open to discussion on where everyone sees hazard with the plan. My simple brain is telling me it's a hardware discussion.

Edit: now I need to reread more and explore the FFV canister.

 

Let me know what you find about this FFV and part number. Might as well do mine lol

 

@Mdl - have the link or details saved? I'm about to leave the site to go hunt for this information.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/general-supercharger-thread.85513/page-540#post-3611085

edit: tagging @Silver17 in a well because he's commented on the same mod over the past 1-2 years. i don't do FB, so references to it are like a mystery to me.

 

It's all in 4firemandans thread that I modeled my fuel system after. @Silver17 mentioned the walbro 450 model 267 fits inside without drilling holes or modifications from the FB page. The venturi system is larger on the ffv canister to accommodate the larger fuel pump. It does sit in a different orientation than the non-ffv canister. I lengthened the wires for the fuel canister plug.
https://www.tundras.com/threads/5-7-supercharged-e85-fuel-system-diy-project.101526/

 

for discussion:

I believe we are talking about sub tank sub-assembly No 1, based on threads I've seen and Prospeed's install instructions. If all we need is the lower basket from a FFV, then I think it is going to be one of these three. I'm going to call Fred Anderson to discuss.

Edit: Photo of part numbers deleted. Baskets are not sold separately from Toyota.

 

I ordered a ffv tank on ebay. Came as a complete unit. I plugged the high psi line and any other ffv removed the grounding switch.

 

Best $130 I spent!! I could always go back to my OE unit if needed...

 

car-parts.com for the win.

2014-2020 FFV with 38 gallon tank is Toyota 77020-0C170
Proof: https://toyota.oempartsonline.com/oem-parts/toyota-fuel-pump-assembly-770200c170

Having one of each will allow us to investigate the differences a bit more. I'm still going to call Fred Anderson and see if one of those three baskets are specifically for a FFV and then Jesse and I can explore a tiny bit during the swap. It would be lovely if it is literally just the basket that needs to be swapped.

 

Wish I was closer to y'all. I'd let y'all play with my flex fuel.

 

Would ya? LOL

You're kind of lucky in a sense with the extra flow you have enjoyed up until 6'ish psi! That's still fun while the rest of this gets "sorted". We're lucky enough to just be frolicking through the pastures of lessons learned.

 

Per Fred Anderson, baskets are not sold individually from Toyota. They confirmed we would need 77020-0C170

 

I made the decision today that next year I'm going to tackle the fuel system. Just not in the cards this year plus I want to have a backup daily because I'm not going to be able to do this in a weekend (need to sell my k5 so I can pick up a camaro). So I'm curious to see where you and Jesse take this so I can start procuring parts first part of next year. For sure I'm going to be eliminating the FFV valve and lines and bumping injector size but beyond that I'm not quite sure. I know I could swap the pump while I've got the tank down but not sure if it's really needed at this point or not for where I'm wanting to be at. Want to see where the current test trucks 340 and 650's take it after his secret squirrel stuff and then go from there. May not even need the injectors and may just need the secret squirrel stuff to help settle out the AFR's.

 

I think we'll have all of the answers you're looking for well before the new year. Just got my official quote for the engine swap and ironed out the rest of the budget and to-do list with Jesse a little bit ago.

At the moment, all systems are green and we'll be tackling everything to get to the limits of the stock manifold. This includes fueling, exhaust and Dyno tuning.

Soon, folks! Soon!

 

Quick update...
Decided to install stage 2 and ordered stage 2 upgrade kit including injectors and pump.

Now adding:

1. Intercooler
2. Brackets
3. Piping
4. Couplers
5. Clamps
6. Screened MAF housing
7. Injectors DW650cc
8. Pump DW300
9. In Tank FPR

Uploaded part 5 video today about the brake line relocation:

https://youtu.be/yX6xBUyX0nc


More soon...

 

congrats on the upgrade to Stage 2!

My own updates aren't exactly as fun as yours at the moment. I did purchase 5 or 6 mufflers yesterday to test once the swap is done. lol

EDIT: Oh! and your video is added to the first post. thanks again

 

Nice thanks! Which mufflers did you buy?

 

All 4" inlet & outlet, straight thru design. Amazon for return purposes. Only a few provide actual grade of steel being used and conveniently, only a few I am expecting to be near what the truck will need, but we'll know more later. Keith is still an option, but he's not cheap and I want to get a ballpark sound to discuss with him if I go that path. Seeing it is going to be a custom turbo back exhaust, I'm just going to make the muffler section accommodate the standard 30" end to end footprint. The shorter ones will just have pipe added to extend them as needed, but it will make fitment in my garage a heck of a lot easier if it takes me time to find the sound I'm looking for. Fun but tame is the balance I'm looking for since it still needs to do truck things for hours on end.

MBRP M1004 Quiet Tone Muffler (T-304):

$350 MBRP M1004 Universal Quiet Tone Muffler

Amazon.com: MBRP M1004 Universal Quiet Tone Muffler : Automotive

TotalFlow 20321 (T-409):

TOTALFLOW 20321 Straight Through Universal Exhaust Muffler | 409 Stainless Steel | 4" Inner Diameter Inlet/Outlet | Diesel Exhaust Muffler

Amazon.com: TOTALFLOW 20321 Straight Through Universal Exhaust Muffler | 409 Stainless Steel | 4 Inch Inner Diameter Inlet/Outlet | Diesel Exhaust Muffler : Automotive

JY Performance 7" x 24" Body ("Stainless Steel"):

$69 JY PERFORMANCE 4" Inch Inlet Diesel Muffler Exhaust - 7" x 24" Body - 30" OAL - Straight Through - Stainless Steel - Welded On Resonator, Polished - TIG Welding

Amazon.com: JY PERFORMANCE 4" Inch Inlet Diesel Muffler Exhaust - 7" x 24" Body - 30" OAL - Straight Through - Stainless Steel - Welded On Resonator, Polished - TIG Welding : Automotive

Upower XS2772 ("Stainless Steel"):

$70 Upower 4" Inlet Diesel Exhaust Muffler 7" x 24" Body 30" Whole Length XS2772 - Straight Through Stainless Steel Welded On Resonator Muffler

Amazon.com: Upower 4" Inlet Diesel Exhaust Muffler 7" x 24" Body 30" Whole Length XS2772 - Straight Through Stainless Steel Welded On Resonator Muffler : Automotive

Vibrant 1091 ("Stainless Steel"):

$210 Vibrant Performance Vibrant (1091) 4" Round Tip TPV Universal Muffler

Amazon.com: Vibrant Performance Vibrant (1091) 4" Round Tip TPV Universal Muffler : Automotive

Evil Energy ("201 Stainless housing, 430 Stainless inner mesh"):

$41 EVIL ENERGY 4.0" Resonator Muffler Stainless Steel (4.0" Inlet/Outlet, 13.7" Length)

Amazon.com: EVIL ENERGY 4.0" Resonator Muffler Stainless Steel (4.0 inch Inlet/Outlet, 13.7" Length) : Automotive

The Banks is also on the table, but that'll be only if one of these doesn't cut it. I was struggling to find Borla in flow-through 4". Some manufacturers don't support over 3" in/out and some only offer chambered, which is a power suck on a turbo.

 

Nice!

I am asking because replacing the actual muffler with a shorter one is one of the options I was considering to make space for the cutout valves.

Got the following pic. from the installation guide to see the final setup and added a draw of where I want to add the cutout valves.



In #2 there is no space sufficient without eliminating the flange connection.

In summary the options are:

1. Replace the flange connection by the cutout valve. Not sure if this is a good practice.
2. Mod the curved section. Making it shorter will result in a longer flat pipe area.
3. Replace the muffler by a shorter muffler. If I am not wrong the actual is 23 in. long. But want to keep the same or similar sound.

 

If you like the sound, is it a big deal to bring the cutouts further forward? One by the front flange and one on the dog leg from the kit?

 

Can be an option! Just my OCD to see both in parallel! Let's see.