General Supercharger Thread

I'm hoping to shoe horn it behind the air cleaner.

Thanks

Seeing as they never responded to the email about the cap & don't answer the phone, I'll see about getting it in, more coolant is better.

Thanks

 

Show off some photos of your setup as my imagination is not as strong this fine Friday!

 

This is before I reverted to the Magnuson reservoir.


This is now.



Downstream O2's have less than 2k on them, were throwing heater 37 & 57 errors. Do you guys think cleaning them helped them? (new ones are in)

 

I'm just the peanut gallery but if I could suggest a re-route of your setup.
Bottom port from tank to pump. Pump to I/C, I/C to SC i/c brick out to top port of tank.
My O2's needed a thorough cleaning after they were covered in oil. But they only survived another year before replacing.

 

With the large tank is how the shop gave it back, I have it the way you suggest now (I think)

 

Cool. And for your new tank. You want to have bottom port to pump and return on top. Just to keep system from getting airborne and longevity.

 

How is it possible 0 mile new sensors are still throwing 037/57 & it idles when the codes are there like it's cammed? Also odd, it dies when the codes are cleared. (starts right up, runs fine)

 

Are all your grounds hooked up? ECU wiring to O2's?

 

Yup, I have good charging voltage, which generally is the first thing to go when there are ground issues. I checked them when the Voltage Pro stopped working. I'm back over 14 on the HKB.

 

More like the grounds to the valve covers/ transmission etc.

 

Aaaand.... The Whipple is missing a bunch of parts, including the injectors, and the heat exchanger was damaged either previously or in shipping. ‍♂️

 

Can’t catch a break

 

Not even a little. XAT reached out to Whipple already requesting them to overnight everything.

He's also not sure the Stillen intake is gonna work with the Whipple.

 

Stillen box won’t bolt in but I’m sure could be made to work

 

That seems to be a common issue with Whipple not including all the parts.

 

Oof. When I had my 2.9L installed a year and half ago, they were missing a tensioner pulley. They overnighted the part without a fuss. Guess I better go double check my box...

 

Yes, to the valve covers, I didn't look at the transmission. I erased the memory and relearned the alcohol with my Autel, the negative has been off the battery since 10am

I'll see what there is to be seen. Do you know where the transmission ground is?

It's 120, I'd like to know where I'm looking, searches have it all over the place lol.

Thanks.

 

Should be passenger door side just aft of the t-stat/puck.

 

Whipple sucks fucking ass, I would never buy or recommend one. First the shit of messed up blowers, then slow to fix, forever to ship, then I saw plenty of shit on Reys that came straight from their factory that was embarrassing, and now nags issues.

 

Packing up the truck today and heading down to National Speed in NC. 8 hours oh boy! Working out of a hotel so didn’t have to take pto which is nice. Can’t wait to hear how the headers sound with the spd cat back. Excited!

 

The Trans ground is there but it's frayed and looks corroded. I added to a stud on the opposite side of the truck the "knitted" strap in the picture and added the 2 gauge to the driver side valve cover and connected it to the body ground to the right of the battery.

 

500 miles -- took 9 hours with 1 stop to refuel/bathroom (16 mpg!) - should've been 7.5 hours but as soon as I hit Virigina it was stop and go traffic all the way until Richmond on i95. I'll update Friday with my experience when I get home (hopefully no traffic when I leave 3pm Thursday ha).

 

I only brought up the grounding strap issue as you had several engine changes. Sometimes it can be overlooked and cause some funky stuff with the coils/plugs/shifting and O2's.

 

It could not hurt, the transmission ground was needing attention. Adding a better ground to the valve cover can't hurt.

Thanks!

 

I'd grab a picnic lunch, hang out for a few hours and then cannonball run that baby home during the night... you know, as a proper break-in

 

037 & 57 won't go away, searches say it must be the wiring, if not the sensors. Anyone know where in the circuit both downstreams would be sharing wiring? I doubt both had a separate failure.

Altermatively, I did the "training" to allow HPTunes to open emissions locked codes, but still can't edit these. Have you guys found a way around that?

 

The only wire they share is the 12v power supply. (+B)
They both ground separately thru the ecu. (E1)
They both send signals to the ecu thru separate wires (OX1B) (OX2B)
They each have separate wires for the heater circuit power supply from the ecu. (HT2B) (HT1B)

 

Thanks, I didn't think the heaters shared anything, this is infuriating.

Also, I know they don't have a separate fuse but checked all the under hood fuses (hate going under the dash, I would like to stone whoever put them there) No bad fuses.

 

Junction connector D53 is the common 12v to +B, make sure its snapped in properly.

Here's the diag for that circuit. (PDF)

 

Thanks! None seemed loose or had any visible issues. I pulled all, sprayed Deoxit-5 on both sides, & made sure all were firmly connected/all wires were firmly in their sockets. It still stalled when I started it (another odd new symptom) but is idling normally & no code in 5 minutes idling. Hopefully you are on to it.

I sent sniv a log yesterday (still having Pro cable Innovate not reporting issues) maybe between this and a tune I can get a freaking breaak.

Thanks for your help!