2007 sequoia blower motor not working

Greetings... new member here. The blower in our used 2007 Sequoia suddenly stopped moving air. All controls and displays seem to function normally (I can turn the AC on/off and change speeds on fan). Removed the blower connector and confirmed that voltage is present at connector and changes, as expected, as Fan Speed knob is rotated. Assuming the motor was bad, I purchased and installed new motor and control module. However, new blower does not function.
When checking voltage at blower, with all connectors MATED, I have zero volts.
When checking voltage at blower, with blower connector DE-MATED (controller connector mated), I have 10-13ish volts, depending on Fan Speed knob setting.
Something upstream of the motor seems to cause a voltage drop when the motor is in the circuit.
I am going to start relay swapping, but in the meantime, any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.

 

Greetings. This is kind of embarrassing, but I am having trouble physically locating the HEATER and the RR HEATER relays for my 2007 Sequoia. I found some info on YouTube that showed them in what I am calling EngComp #2 Fuse Box. However, mine shows different relays.
I can locate the associated Fusible Links (located in the main box, EngComp #1) upstream of the relays (and they look good), but not the relays themselves. I am beginning to suspect that the relays are not actuating when the blower moter is connected. The MagClutch relay in EngComp #2 Fuse Box is functioning properly.

 

Electrical Wiring Diagrams(EWD) can be found here if it will help----> Ultimate SEQUOIA Wiring Diagrams Collection | Toyota Tundra Forum

According to the 2007 Sequoia EWD, both are under hood in what appears to about a 4" sq fusebox No. 4.

 

Thanks much. Found them but they are all good. Even pulled the relay and motor to the bench and used 12v to bench test... motor spins fine. I would suspect the controller/resistor, but its new. hrmph!!

 

So, this is after typing all this out. If you are experiencing a voltage drop. That to me is a little odd as it shouldn't be passing through anything that should drop the voltage that much. It's probably a wire being rubbed open and breaking, thus causing high resistance.
Also read the whole thing before testing..
Work from the fuse box down to the motor. If all that checks out then go from motor to ground.
First check resistance from fuse to terminal 2 of blower. Then check for resistance from terminal 1 of blower to any Chassis ground (with blower set to high. If either are higher then 20 Ohms, something is wrong. If both come out fine then test all of it.

Now to this essay of what I typed out before, that, I admit, is in really bad order.


I had the same issue. -Every thing else was fine.-
Your new resistor pack could have died..
Pull the connector at the blower motor and check if you have ground on terminal 1.
While you're at it pull the connector at the resistor pack and check for ground at terminal 1.

My resistor pack went bad and was open. If you have open on ground I would bet money that it was the resistor pack.

Also, check for 12v, If no 12v, place negative test lead on the passenger door striker (the hoop for the door latch) if you then get 12v it's not getting a proper ground.

Another issue is that the connector at the resistor pack, a wire could be open.

I just directly wired the ground to the body temporarily until I got a resistor pack, only blows at max speed and you can't turn it off without turning the ac off so just set the temperature higher if you get cold. Had to find someway to make it work, even temporarily for this BS summer heat.
There is a bolt directly under the right side of the glove box near the passenger door, I took that bolt out and gave it direct ground.

P.S. use a test wire to jump the relays, set blower to HIGH, jump terminal 5 and 3 at the heater relay.

Check for fan operation.
If other tests fail, Check for 12v at terminals 1 and 2, at the heater relay while fan is on.
If yes 12v then check for continuity from the heater relay at terminal 3 to the blower moter at terminal 2.
If no 12v, there is probably a wiring issue from the control panel to that relay.


This is mostly just a list, whether it's things you have already tested or have not yet.

Let me know what does work and we will use process of elimination

 

Thanks HumanRobot for the info and taking the time to post the detailed list. Printed it out and will work on it and post results.