So You Want To Do Your Manifolds DO You?

I have 2 words for you; Time for some headers!

If you install new headers, then you only have to worry about snapping the studs off where the manifolds mount on the block...

All kidding aside, I would cut the pipe studs off flush at the exhaust manifold, or grind the remaining studs flush and drill new holes, then install the pipe flange with stainless bolts/nuts.

 

I thought about headers, but instead of 6 problems I open myself up to 16!
but I've already spent 600 on the exhaust I need to get it all together again until some more cash comes in.
I eventually got it off, I tried sawzall with the blade and you can't get onto the nut as the blade hits the flange all the time and kicks you back out. A 4 1/2 inch angle grinder with the shroud taken off just fits, with no room for your hand, so I turned it on and fed it up against the frame until it grinded one of the sides of the nut off, then chiseled the nut off.

 

I know this is an old thread, but studied the hell out of it before doing my 2000 tundra manifolds. After 22 years in the northeast, the passenger side was a rust circus. I wanted to add a few points for the folks in here that are not mechanics and their experience level is oil changes, Brakes, sway bars, starters, alternators, radiators, and some other relatively mild stuff.

My brother was a toyota tech (now service manager) and he wanted nothing to do with the manifolds, lol. He even offered to pay one of the techs at work to do it, but they were all like “nah, I’m good” lol. Even one or two techs that needed some extra dough blew it off. Not a good sign.

That being said, after 6 months, I said “the hell with it” and did it. (I needed an exhaust as well). By way of my background, I’m very good with outboards, fiberglass and woodwork. I am also a desk jockey, so do not swing a wrench for a living.

Some points to add:

1- if you don’t have serious handwrench mojo, OR if you got minimal tools, just cut the center out of the manifold to get to the two hidden bolts. (Which is what i did). Right angle grinder (which i am surgical with) with as big of a blade that will fit. No engine mount removal.

2- The nuts came off 50% of the studs.
3- The passenger side was rusted a hell of a lot more than the driver
4- studs came out easy peasy with heat (oxy acet). I would heat the stud to red, then let it cool before attempting to remove. Some came out so easily, it was scary

I guess I'm posting for the next guy like me so they will feel more comfortable It took me 2 days. (One side each day). My advice would be to take your F’ing time! The old saying “haste makes waste” totally applies here. All you need is one misaligned socket that rounds a nut, or even worse breaks a stud.

For a desk Jockey, with his brothers master tool set, it was very doable. Miserable to some extent, but after two days I felt at home in the wheel well. I felt like I belonged there. After the first day, when i wasn’t in the wheel-well with my hands rammed into the engine box, i sorta felt out of place. Lol

be well

 

I am preparing to replace the left-hand exhaust manifold on my 2005 Sequoia. I see many talking about installing aftermarket headers instead of the oem manifold. My question is, how quiet are headers? I live in a quiet neighborhood and I need to not sound like a teen-aged hot rodder. And it's just not my thing. I still have the original mufflers installed.

Thanks

 

I could be wrong but I don't think short tube headers would change the sound much.

Trying to think of a few members I can tag and ask..

 

My ceramic coated JBA shorties have been on the motor for more than 20 years, and even though they don't look great they are still working as advertised after almost 180,000 miles of service. I took these pictures a couple years before replacing the valve cover gaskets.



Another look while the valve cover gaskets were being replaced.



The sound is slightly deeper, but no louder than stock.