Timing belt master thread/sticky?

Next month I'll be due for my second timing belt replacement - I replaced it last in June '16 at 168k, currently at 180k (yes, 12k miles in 9 years). I'm pondering two things:
- Radiator was replaced with Denso at last timing belt change. Should I replace it again? It still looks like new.
- If the cam and crank seals aren't leaking, replace them or leave them alone?

 

If it were me, I'd probably roll a full 10yrs on the belt, but I'd inspect it for sure.

If you're in there, I'd do the cam and crank seals.

I wouldn't replace the radiator, 12k miles on a radiator to replace it seems silly.

 

I'm gonna hit 9 years next April but I'm nowhere close to 90k miles. I'm considering pushing the belt to 10 years. I looked at it when I replaced my alternator and it still looked good.

 

I still have the belt I replaced 9 years ago and even that looks good still, though sitting in a drawer isn't terribly demanding of it.

Replacing per schedule it gives me peace of mind when I'm sitting at 4k rpms pulling the camper up a long hill

 

My general rule of thumb on every vehicle I've owned prior with timing belt is 100k miles.

I get that Toyota says 9yr/90k, but I don't feel like 10yr/100k miles is pushing it if you use OEM parts, and are replacing the tensioner and pulleys Aisin includes in their kit, along with the water pump and t-stat.

 

Definitely, as long as you know for sure when the belt was last done and inspect it at the 9yr/90k mark.
That said, in the long run it doesn't really save any money or work to do it at 9/90 vs 10/100.

 

Putting this here in case anyone else thinks 'I don't need the crank pulley holder tool 'cause I have an impact', and then gets to reinstalling the crank pulley and has second thoughts about snugging it down with an impact rather than torquing to spec.
I wish I remembered how I did this last time, I don't own the tool (ordered one but it didn't show up in time) and I don't remember renting one...
Anyway, take an old serpentine belt (must be old, it will be ruined) and wrap it around the crank pulley, then use a large pry bar to hold it against the crossmember.
I don't think this will work for loosening the bolt, you can really feel the belt stretch and it's a tad sketchy, but it works.

 

I used same technique to torque the harmonic balancer on my daughter Escape. Old belt is going in trash anyway.

 

Hi all - about to dig into replacing timing belt/water pump/radiator this weekend. I've watched and read all I can find but still nervous on the timing belt. On The Car Care Nut's video he shows the arrow on the crank but (call me crazy) that arrow is not lined up with the dot! What happens if the arrow is pointing at the tooth to the right of the dot? Total meltdown?? I need some encouragement!

ATTACH=full]1124753[/ATTACH]

 

Shows the marks pretty well.
The Aisin kit will have some instructions, just make sure your looking at right one.
https://youtu.be/Z46cM-Bw1rI?si=kb6MU-VDRah-6pUc

 

I find this is probably one of the best sources on the internet for understanding 2UZ timing marks, kudos to @BubbaW for his original share of this one: https://www.toyoheadquarters.com/threads/toyota-2uz-fe-timing-belt-marks-4-7l.335/

 

Anybody know where to get the 4 nuts that hold the fan on? I had a heck of a time getting them off and rounded a couple. Back at the tear down today.

also any tricks to remove the Phillips screw on the AC compressor without stripping it?

 

If they're already rounded, that's a problem.

There is a trick to getting them off. I swore this was in the tming belt sticky thread, but maybe not.

Anyway, this video shows it at the 75s mark. If you've already rounded the bolts, maybe you can use his technique, but with Vise Grips?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9M3hFSiKs_U&t=75s​

 

I got the fan nuts off but don’t want to reuse them. I need new ones. Checked RA but don’t see them. Is that a typical hardware store thing?
Also - “pro” tip on the AC compressor screw. I used the 24” HF cheapo screwdriver. Tapped on it with a hammer for a while and the cheap steal on the screwdriver makes it kind of “springy”. Kind of acted like a super slow impact and broke it free.

 

Screw on the AC compressor is NOT Phillips, it is JIS. If you use a standard Phillips screwdriver, it'll be more prone to rounding out.

Get a JIS bit/ screwdriver. If it's stuck on there, use a manual hand impact.

$13 6Pcs 50mm JIS Screwdriver Bit Set with Magnetic Tip,1/4 Hex Shank, S2 Alloy Steel & 6-Hole Storage Strip-erfect for Japanese Motorcycles, Cars，Bicycle & Equipment (JIS #1x2#2x2#3x2)

https://www.amazon.com/Screwdriver-...2422900&sprefix=toyota+jis+bit,aps,367&sr=8-3

$39 Lisle 29200 3/8" Hand Impact Tool Set

https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-29200-...1752422793&sprefix=Lisle+hand+,aps,286&sr=8-1

 

Woah! Had no idea! Well I got lucky and it came out looking brand new.

 

Yeah, a lot of people get lucky. Definitely don't take a Phillips screwgun to it or you'll have a bad day.

Regarding the nuts for your fan, they are cheap from the dealer but you can take them to Tractor Supply or a similar hardware store and use their thread checker, then pick out similar nuts. They're probably M6 or M8 in diameter. I believe they are flange nuts with a serrated flange, so you want that exact type of nut to replace them if you aren't going OEM.

 

Ace Hardware has similar nut/bolt checker. Sadly, I have to drive 35 minutes to the nearest TSC store, but I have an Ace minutes away.

 

Kind of the opposite for me now, we used to have an "okay" Ace Hardware, now we just have the Tractor Supply.

I went to the Ace Hardware in Utah that is close to Matt's Offroad Recovery and that was a really nice store. Hardware, mini home depot, mini grocery store, and free popcorn; everything you need for a project almost (except beer).

 

We have a couple of really good ones inside the city here in ATL. There's one on the east side of Decatur that's larger than most, has just about every-damn-thing. But the two that are a neighborhood or two outside of downtown on the east (Sheps stores), which are small, have exceptionally clean and well-stocked fastener sections. They take up a whole wall of the store. I like shopping at TSC, but I'm usually rolling out to the one that's west of Sweetwater state park, way out in Douglasville. It's even worse trying to get to a Harbor Freight or Northern Tool here. All three of those stores (TSC, HF, NT) are substatially long treks for people who live inside the I-285 perimeter unless you're on the north side of town in the Dunwoody area.

 

I finally splurged and bought my own...

$24 JoblikeBrez Thread Checker, 30 Nut and Bolt Thread Checker, Bolt Size and Thread Gauge 15 Standard & 15 Metric, Bolt Size Finder, Wall-Mountable Bolt Thread Identifier Gauge with Inch & CM Ruler

https://www.amazon.com/JoblikeBrez-...69&sprefix=thread+checker,aps,107&sr=8-3&th=1

 

Downfall for this type is you can't use it for threads on the truck if you're doing engine bay or other tight spaces. Mainly useful for hardware you remove. I bought a cheap set like this to double check a hole in a tight space, but left them off the rope. I returned it though because it was cheaply made IMO. I may buy a higher quality version or just buy a nice thread chaser set and use that as a "checker"

 

When I was forced to downsize the shop in 2023, I updated the shop bench I build 20 years ago, and picked up these as bolt supplements. Pic of where I mounted the one similar to the one you bought follows.

EDIT: I also got one like @des2mtn recommends, I wanted something in a small plastic case that was easily transportable, I have an older one that's on a string like his and it bugs the shit outta me, I feel like I'm dragging around anal beads or something ("painal" beads?). First item here is the kit I got, on the cheap. The VEVOR stainless drawers were retrofitted into my homemade shop table, I needed more integrated storage and got a really great deal on it @scAmazon.

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Be careful with that metal hammerhead so close to pos terminal and ground.

 

Ha! Yep - I was real careful where I laid the hammer. Negative terminal is disconnected out of the pic.

 

90029-07010 are the part numbers for new fan nuts