General Supercharger Thread

I'm mixed, I think AWD would be nice for accelerating through corners. If I need to jump into traffic it's this slow and tedious process of pulling out and getting lined up and waiting for the rear end to settle before getting into the power---or just power sliding through the turn and making a lot of commotion. But to solve that one specific issue with all the work for the AWD swap seems like minimal return on investment. The few times anyone wants to actually race I have time to put it in 4WD, and if it's wet conditions I just leave it in 4WD anyway.

Essentially most times I need more traction, I have time to engage 4WD and that is more or less the same as AWD, and the few times I don't have a chance to engage 4WD doesn't seem like it's enough to justify the swap.

 

I wished I had AWD about a month ago. Pulling a 7k+ 32’ trailer loaded with my whole family I had to merge from a dead stop due to ramp construction onto a very busy highway with everyone going 70mph and the roads were drenched. I put it in 4x4 and luckily since I exercise it a lot it actually went in right away but that’s not always the case. I was chirping all 4 merging and the steering wheel got light from loss of traction. If I was in AWD there wouldn’t have been any panic of whether or not the 4x4 would engage in the short time and distance I needed it to.

 

This is why. All in the same trip.



Sure, you can click in and out of 4wd 30 times, but it is MUCH easier to simply put it in AWD and let it work.

The first week I had my SC, I was driving down the freeway on clear but wet roads at a manageable speed with light traffic. It was winter time and we were in the middle of a storm lull - heavy wet snow the night before, more snow to come that evening. Climbing a small hill, the truck downshifted to 5th and revved to all of 2400 RPM, but it was enough torque to break the tires loose and send me sideways at 70 MPH. I kept it on the road but wouldn't have had an issue in AWD.

 

Price is it. Adding a torsen diff to the transfer case adds at least $500 parts cost and another part number to the system.

I am surprised it wasn't offered in Limited trims like GM did around the same time and Ford does now.

 

100% agree about the premium trims not getting the option. What's interesting is the parts counter price for a 2014+ tundra t case is virtually the same as a sequoia AWD t case. Not saying that's what it looks like on a manufacturing level, but interesting none the less. I also understand that they would need a few other bits and bobs unique to an AWD tundra in an assembly line, like a different rear drive line, which drives up manufacturing costs. It is nice, though, that so many parts are shared between the two platforms. Rear brakes, for example, are identical even though the sequoia has a completely different independent rear suspension setup. And the fact that you can literally swap the 4wd body module between them is awesome.

 

When I have switched to 2WD & forgotten, I hate how the truck feels & have to put it back into 4WD ASAP.

 

I would've just left it in 4WD the whole time and let it eat

 

I want AWD for the same reasons @blenton mentioned. When I retire, the wife's aunt lives in the UP, right on Lake Superior, other family in Oklahoma and Tennessee .Lots of snow and ice. We will be towing the TT up there and many places across the country with unpredictable weather.
#2 Reason...because I can .........and a lot cheaper than most.
To each his/her own.

 

Motor will be going to the installer today.

 

Where can I find diff bearings for a 2014? I am putting in the Powertrax and can't find any that will be here before July 3.

 

East Coast Gear Supply (ECGS). Expensive, but they appear to be in stock.

 

Carrier bearings? Or the full kit? We ordered carrier bearings from Randy’s Ring and Pinion (Randy’s Worldwide is their website IIRC). They are a west coast operation. I tried my local transmission and drivetrain warehouse with no luck, found specs for the bearings and went to the local bearing supply store with the same luck. Toyota specs them slightly different than an off the shelf bearing - like 2mm wider - so most parts houses don’t stock them readily. I think East Coast Gear supply should have them if you are closer to that coast.

 

Placing an order with the machine shop in a week or two, if there's any custom parts people want, let me know!

 

Billet shock tower brace lol

 

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ntn-nbdrk382mk
Well it does come on July 3rd but the price is right. Koyo bearings. I used it for my rear Speedmaster lsd install.

 

I'm still waiting for my broken one to get fixed and sent back to me.

 

Making progress. Bearings were toast and coupler had slop compared to new.

 

95mm throttle body and a pulley for the Whipple I don't have yet...

 

Probably be ordering RevC of the throttle body, still trying to get it to play nice with the stock ECU. The Whipple pulley I could, but I think all the Whipple pulleys are cross compatible so I would just buy one from them

 

Found them at East Coast Gear. Pricey, but needed. Thanks for the info.

 

I thought it was standard to just he-man that beast off the engine.

 

What size pulley I've got spares lol

 

My back can't take it anymore. I put it by myself and that was pushing it. Think thats when I broke my radiator overflow nipple. As you get older we are supposed to be wiser...

 

Motor done, being delivered to the shop, AAA took the Sequoia there now.

Never expected less than 72 hours after they got my core that it would be done.

 

That's impressive turn-around time!

 

So what did you end up having done? Stock pistons, upgraded rods and hardware etc?

 

That's what I've got to figure out. I'm at sea level and not sure which pulley size is appropriate for staying in the "safe" range, if you have insight with the different sizes you've used, us new Whipple guys would surely appreciate it.

 

I'm also at sea level- I went a few steps down but typically one step is 1psi but I found the 2 steps down was about the same as the first so I kept moving down in size. Ultimately I ended up at 10-10.5psi (3.25 pulley) before the updated intake and exhaust which now nets me around 8.5-9.0ish. I would say 1 step down is plenty safe..

 

Stock+ (they said they are better aluminum) pistons & rods, going down 1mm on the pulley to stay at or under 10lbs, adding e85 & Aquamist. I'm already .000000001mm from living in it without spending another 5+k on forged internals.

From the piston picture I found this, don't know for certain if it's the same.

$456 DNJ PRK978 Piston and Ring Kit For 2007-2019 Lexus Toyota Land Cruiser LX570 Sequoia Tundra 5.7L V8 DOHC 32V Naturally Aspirated 3UR-FE

https://www.amazon.com/DNJ-PRK978-2007-2019-Naturally-Aspirated/dp/B09KFWX85L?th=1


Wife is already like just drive the Camry & junk the tree so just doing this is pushing it.