General Supercharger Thread

The adventure continues. Waited 2:30, put the coolant in, turned the key, it made super odd noises, stopped cranking and now acts like it has insufficient voltage (sounds like the VR is clicking) it has 12.4 volts, connected a charger with 40 & 200 amp boost, same thing. Ran the codes, it had PO335 crankshaft position sensor, it & all the sensors are under 6 months old, OEM Toyota & there has never been any starting issues. After I cleared it 335 did not come back but the same thing happened, clicks like it does not have sufficient voltage.

I pulled the battery & have it charging at 40 amps. I'm at a loss.

 

Low battery voltage causes crank sensor codes all the time. Sounds like it got a bad cell..

It didn't hydrolock by any chance?

 

Does the IC resi still have the same amount of coolant in it now versus when you refilled it and tried to turn it over? If not, you may need to pull the back two plugs and either jab the borescope in there to see if one of them filled with coolant somehow, or drain the coolant and pull the cover to try to see if the o-rings allowed coolant passage into the cylinders. Maybe the o-rings didn't do the trick and allowed coolant to run past when you refilled. Just to clarify, it actually turned over briefly before stopping?

 

It was driven into the driveway when I came home, I was able to start it and turn it around afterwards. The cylinder picture was after the last time it ran.

I just tried again, did the same clicking thing, battery has 12.6v before putting 200 amps on it.

I tried to remote start, all the accessories run (SC coolant pump etc) but nothing else happens.

Now turning the key only lights the cluster, no click.


The video I found for the cps was 2wd, between my skid plate and front axles I can't see the damn sensor.

It's 112, I'm taking a break.

 

Yes it did turn over. I'll pull #7 after cooling down.

 

Not sure if you can reach it. Make sure the starter trigger wire is fully seated. I'm able to get my hand in there after removing the starter heat shield. Just a thought as mine came loose and I had to re-insert it.
Man...good luck!

 

So that's an affirmative, there was 1/4 of a gallon in 8,7,5 & 3 combined. The starter no longer does anything (I suction pumped 99.9% of the fluid out) Is there a fuse or relay for the starter? Can't find one.

I'll have to pull the skidplate to try & manually crank the motor to see if it is fucked.

7, still working on getting that out.



5

 

F*%K! That blows, I hope the motor is still good.

 

Holy shit! Remember to pull the plugs when trying to turn it over to maybe help purge the coolant out. May as well do them all I would guess. I'm unlikely to be of any use in troubleshooting the starter...

 

@e30cabrio, I found this (for Tundras): https://imgvehicle.com/toyota/tundra-ii/fuse-box
Locations 13 & 40

 

I found the fuses & relay. The 7.5 under the dash was blown, none of the rest were, no function with a new 7.5. Plugs are out, starter does nothing. It's also under 6 months old . I'm a dumbass. Should have waited for the O-Rings

 

@e30cabrio, this one may be more applicable, possibly for a Sequoia as it has references for air suspension and electronic tailgate: https://fuseandrelay.com/toyota/tundra-2g.html#Fuse_and_Relay_Box
Locations 18 & 59

 

Did you attach the lid to intercooler then install/slide IC into the SC? It should go in as a unit. If not the IC can be set too deep and not seal. If the o-rings are same diameter and thickness there shouldn't be an issue.

 

I did, thanks.

The battery is behaving oddly, it is a year old quality AGM, it gets 13.9-14.3 volts when running, lives at 12.5+. Right now it has 12.3, ignition off. Ignition on, DRLs on & the SC Pump running it's at 12.

No starter & no starter when bypassing the relay with a test probe. The odd thing is the voltage drop when trying to start it.

 

Solenoid on the starter die?

 

If anything is dead, I killed it but I really hope not.

It's still 109, I'm burnt. I'll pull the skidplate & see if I can crank the motor & go from there. If I killed the motor, I need to find the builder I found AFTER the junk yard motor was going in & see what he will charge me if I give him 2 cores on a new motor.

 

Not sure if you tried yet. If the trigger wire is not engaged it will go through a start cycle but no crank. It was a difficult find out but cured my no start.
Found this on tundrasolutions a few months ago that helped. Not sure if it's your issue.

 

Can you swap the bimmer's battery in to see if that does anything?

 

Thanks. Where is the trigger wire?

 

I can but doubt it would be better than a 200 amp start plus the 900 amp AGM, even if the AGM is misbehaving.

I'm going to wait for tomorrow to see if it's locked up.

 

Ah, missed that tidbit.

 

This is all triggering some anxiety over here. Check your oil while you're waiting. Fingers crossed for you

 

Forward on starter about 11 o'clock. It's has a little tab that sometimes unseats. If you can loosen the heat shield you can jam your hand in there and see if its seated.

I'm hoping it is something simple and not a serious issue!

 

They aren't functional. If you look at the Tundra with the fender removed there is no air flow between the engine bay and the fender space unless you cut a hole between the two.

 

Exactly, these are decorative without additional mods.
The mold them on demand hence the "soon".

 

You have more bad luck than anyone I've ever met

 

Oil looks ok.

 

Fingers and toes crossed you can turn it over by hand.

 

No joke…

@e30cabrio , you don’t like to drink things out of straws, do you..?

 

You don't have an aftermarket alarm that's tied into the starter circuit?
Those things do weird stuff when they loose voltage.
If it has OEM alarm, have you tried resetting it.. unlock/lock/unlock drivers door. They do weird stuff with low voltage too.
Praying the engine isn't locked...