Has anyone tried a 2nd gen Sequoia cluster in their Tundra?

I don't see any definite answers on what will work and what won't. I want the upgraded Limited cluster in my 2007 SR5 crewmax and the "Optitron" clusters usually carry a much higher asking price than a similar cluster from a 2008 Sequoia. Anyone know if one of those will work in a Tundra? Will there be issues? Thanks in advance!

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2562588447...ZGRpgbt7rXZHGjxUbZJCQVjw==|tkp:Bk9SR5TrgLHoZQ

 

You could try cross referencing the clusters. They are supposed to work both ways. Some sequoia clusters have different warnings, steering psi etc.
https://taninautoelectronix.com/product/2007-2013-toyota-tundra-limited-optitron-instrument-cluster/

 

I actually contacted them a while back and they told me it wouldn’t work so I assumed no until recently I’ve found a couple reports of it working. I think they just want to sell me one.

 

I believe @Wynnded put a sequoia one in his. Had to mod a component or two.

 

Correct. There was an indicator for something related to the power steering on the Sequoia that the Tundra doesn't have. I disassembled the cluster and unsoldered the LED for that. I also don't get the indicator for disabling the VSC, for me that's not a concern. I found the brightness of the cluster a bit much at night, but I've gotten used to it. The tinted lens covers are available for what I think is reasonable, <$50, so you don't have to be concerned if you can only find one that's kinda scratched up. The lens covers are easy to swap out as well. With the cluster removed there are just some tabs to pull up and the replacement pops right on.

 

The Pokemon Ball?.... Idk why but every time I seen the EPS (Electric Power Steering) warning icon it it makes me think of Pokemon, but its actually supposed to be a "steering wheel"

I can confirm you will have this warning light on with the Sequoia clusters. Removing the LED is the best way to fix it. You could inject a CAN message to turn it off, I have done it but you need hardware and wiring etc.

@Wynnded does you fuel milage and distance to empty work? I thought at one point I had found out the Sequoia might read in fuel use info from a different location than the Tundra but I could be mistaken.

Also make sure you verify part numbers. Don't mix and match Flex Fuel vs Non Flex Fuel clusters

 

Good note on the non/FFV cluster.
Yes, mileage and distance to empty do produce a result, but mine are in no way accurate with the different injectors that come with a supercharger. I think that the current hypothesis is that the computer uses injector pulse width for it's calculation for those, and when the injectors are changed and the pulse with is changed during tuning, that method goes out the door. With the bigger injectors and the shorter pulse width, I always get a computer calculation higher than using the conventional hand-calculation method.

 

What about your drive monitor buttons? Do those control the display like it’s supposed to? I might pick up a cheap one to try it.

 

Yes, they do. You can also then access some other things like the timeout for your interior lights to dim or your headlamps to shut off after locking, and door lock settings (one press of the fob for one or all doors to unlock). I can't recall all the settings off the top of my head though.

 

Yeah I’ve seen that. I’ve pretty much set that stuff how I like with Techstream.

 

The result is it works. Just fine. The Tanin people obviously just wanted to sell me one of theirs. I put a small piece of black light blocking tape over the power steering warning light and everything else was 100% plug and play. $84 as opposed to $450+ for a Tundra version works for me!

 

So now I'm having a weird problem... I drove the truck at night for the first time today and realized when I switch the headlights on I have no illumination of any dash controls or clock besides the cluster itself. The dimmer knob controls the cluster just fine but everything else is dark. @Wynnded Did you have that issue?

 

No, I didn't. That's a new one. I even changed out the two clusters to make sure everything worked before sending the Sequoia unit in for an odometer correction. The only complaint that I have about the upgrade is that the cluster doesn't dim enough for my taste.

 

Yeah it’s unusual. Not sure what to do about it. I guess I’ll swap back to the old cluster and see if it returns to working.

 

That's the only thing that occurs to me at the moment. Keep us all in the loop.

 

Weirdly enough, with the old cluster all the lights work. There must be output from the stock cluster that powers them or signals them at least. Anyone have any idea what wire that would be? I’d really like to keep the new one.

 

@Jeff_5_7 This might be more in your wheelhouse, I got nothing. Anything occur to you to give @ScreenSavers some direction? Thanks.

 

I think i remember an possible issue with the dimmer switch. There is a thread somewhere on this website with guys talking about buying a certain part number dimmer switch and that fixed theres.

 

That’s interesting. The parts listings seem to have the same part for the Sequoia/Tundra. If you find that thread let me know. I’ll look out for it.

 

Here start reading. https://www.tundras.com/threads/2nd-gen-cluster.101993/page-9

Nobody ever really figured out exactly why but its seems some guys has luck with one dimmer while a separate one would not work.

 

This is really confusing now especially since the new cluster dims just fine. It’s just everything else goes dark when I turn on the lights. Wonder if it’s a cluster issue…

 

So the issue you're having with it not dimming enough has to do with the dimmer knob as well. From what I gather all the limited and other trucks that came with the Optitron cluster also had a different dimmer knob, that had another position all the way at the top. (Tail cancel on the diagram) that tells the cluster to go into a dimmer mode. Over on another forum (link) it's mentioned that instead of replacing the dimmer rheostat, you can jumper pins L4-5 (Tan wire) and L4-7 (Soft Blue wire) on the switch connector itself. I did that on mine and now when I switch the headlights on, the cluster has options to get MUCH dimmer. So dim that the backlight can be all the way off if desired, like the SR5 cluster originally did. In daytime mode everything is still bright and normal. You can see this functionality in the diagram here as well. Maybe this will help you some!

 

You. Are. The. Man.
I actually had that same page bookmarked, but it just never worked as expected for me. Well, I went out this morning and dug into the dash to see if the mystery could be solved. Lo and behold, that wire that was supposed to fit into pin location 38 on the back of the cluster wasn't set in far enough to make contact. It took me some time to narrow it down to that, but after reworking it, it now works correctly. This also sorts out why the indicator lights on my HVAC weren't dimming too! All this had low-level bothered me for years.

 

Between all of us we will figure these things out! The next thing to tackle for me will probably be the auto AC and headlights… Such silly features (for me) but so satisfying to get them working for cheap! ha ha

 

Yet another reason to dislike this FFV. What differs in the clusters?

 

The ffv cluster will read higher.

 

That's just goofy

 

I'll agree with Tanin optitron cluster assessment but the sender and fuel pump part is not true. I got a ffv canister installed in a non ffv tundra with walbro 450 and my fuel cluster is pretty accurate to E. When my fuel light comes on it takes 20-21gal to full.

 

Oh that warning is for the Tanin cluster? I still don't know how it could vary though, a sending unit doesn't care what kind of fuel is in the tank and a cluster doesn't magically interpret what its sent it just displays what its given. Unless Toyota is doing something looney I suppose

 

Since my cluster came out of a 2008 Sequoia, there should be no danger of it being the FFV.