General Supercharger Thread

That really sounds nice. Too bad you had to go through all that. At least you know your SC is in top shape. Looking forward to seeing the amount of space under the SC for nozzles. AEM and Snow have smaller diameters where Aquamist and NOS are a bit larger. Any concern having them underneath? Going with Aluminum runner for tapping is most likely the strongest option. Looking forward to more updates.

 

Yeah, it was a waste of time, but piece of mind knowing the blower is in good shape. Thankfully, Harrop didn't charge me anything, not even shipping costs to SCOL and SCOL was just a diagnostics fee and shipping.

I was planning on going with the Snow performance kit along with their hardline upgrade kit, there should be plenty of room underneath for the manifolds, lines and solenoids. Since I don't have the SAIS air pumps under there, I have a lot of room to work with. If I need to troubleshoot or remove anything, it's not too much work to get the head unit off and then pull the base. I think it's worth it for the even cylinder distribution that it will provide.

 

Looks good! I like that snow kit and its less comex than the Aquamist.Yeah the solenoids can go where you air switching valves were. Lots of options...you got me thinking now!

 

As I was watering the garden I started thinking about the old school shift kit that I had and others back in 2012. It used billet accumulators in c2 b3 and c3 with rods that limited the opening. As I recall it limited the opening and held the clutches during shifts from 2-3 and 3-4. I believed it was a factor in saving my transmission for so long.

 

Did AES make any comment about the spacer?

 

I didn't even email them about it until just now. I wasn't going to bother as they are designed for stock manifolds, but I sent them an FYI email with pictures.

 

I figure the product was only designed to fit a stock config. We'll see if other blowers have different interference.

 

Been waiting for them to post a sale. Still nothing. If they don’t, maybe I could ask them about a group buy if we can guarantee X amount of purchases.

 

I’m still waiting on a response for a 1/2” one.

 

I emailed them on Friday and guess I should of called. I prefer talking than waiting on email.

 

Ya’ll are making me plot to put an extra windshield washer reservoir under the hood..

 

Heck it doesn't even have to be W/M. Water alone gives good gains by itself.

 

I got a response from them via FB messenger, even that took a couple days.

 

Well I sent the first one April 30th then the follow up may 7th… Guess they don’t do custom.

 

They were slow to respond to me via email as well, just keep bugging them, worked for me.

 

Don’t twist my arm again! First it was gears, then a valve body…

 

We had a solid start to a list of interested parties. Then @snivilous entered the room throwing elbows and dishing out nut tags to anyone even considering it. Then the discussion died down. I'm not sure 8* in IAT drop is worth the cost, though. Doesn't the math end up being <1hp gain?

 

You guys do what you want, don't let some moron like me shit on what you want to spend your money on.

I can completely see the use case, I just think the bang for your buck is absolutely atrocious. I realized I've bought intake manifold spacers since I had to adapt my LSA supercharger originally to older style cathedral port heads for my buggy, and that is a much more complicated (relatively) machining job than the Anderson Spacers. And they were aluminum. And the price from ICT for those spacers today? $238. The equivalent Anderson tundra spacers that are literally flat blocks and about as simple a part as possible? $470. And apparently horribly slow communication as icing on the cake.

That just feels like getting bent over, and for something that (in my ignorant assumption) provides zero noticeable difference. Now if you need spacers to tap water injection ports, that is a totally different story (for $470 you'd think they could include that feature but I digress). I've spent plenty of money on useless shit, but this is a forum after all and this is the one thread I like to participate in, so you guys get to endure my thoughts on trying to save you money

 

So, what is your opinion? I think I missed it.

 

S

So here’s my interest in it: I tow. Often. At elevation. Sometime in 100+ degree heat. Usually around 70 mph. For an hour or three.

A few times I’ve popped the hood after driving down the highway with a trailer and a few miles of cooldown at 40 mph, and that blower is HOT to the touch. Not quite frying pan but close. It might not burn your finger tips but it will burn the bottom of your forearms.

The thermal blanket on the bottom of the blower sounds like a great idea to me.

Delrin spacers as a thermal break sounds like a reasonable idea.

A thermal blanket, spacers, AND W/M injectors below the blower? Now it’s sounding like a party

For a *cough* 8 second *cough* 0-60 pull, I don’t think the spacers alone would make an appreciable difference in IAT’s, nor for cruising down the highway unloaded simply because the HP/heat output of the motor is relatively low. For pulling grades or long highway stretches with a headwind, I think that lowering the amount of heat soak via the blanket and spacer, plus cooling IAT’s post blower would make for a stout pulling setup.

Does Jesse @TurboKits keep WM with the intercooled stage 2? I thought yes?

 

I think he said he was going to make some $238 spacers, tapped for WM, for our trucks…

At least, that’s I heard.

 

The delrin ones are $365 x.8 assuming 20% discount is $292. A 30% reduction in IATs for $292 seems decent. I’d also expect even more reduction than @armyoffoo is seeing with the aluminum ones going with the delrin, which should transmit less heat than the aluminum. If you plan to drill/tap though then definitely go aluminum. Sometimes it’s just fun to tinker though. Will you ever notice from the drivers seat if you can’t even monitor true IATs like the Harrop kit? Probably not. Maybe that 10 degree reduction in cylinder temps could be the difference between a butted piston ring or not is my thought. Every little bit helps.

 

I've thought about it, but I don't want to be a huge dick about it and target them like that. I might talk shit but I think it's great they're supporting the Tundra. I would assume they're a company that has some mills and occasionally run truck parts to keep it busy and they like trucks, and can offer a product no one else provides. If someone started making the same shit as Sniv Speed Shop, which is all stuff no one offered before, it'd be very disheartening and SSS isn't paying the bills so why even keep doing it? Then all of a sudden it went from saving a couple guys a few bucks to a company leaving the scene and they could've had other ideas in the pipeline no one else had.

Maybe I overthink things hahahaha

 

I'm going to get thermal blanket for the bottom of the SC and will be tapping the inlet runners on the SC for port injection. Maybe weld bungs. According to Snow right angle is fine for W/M but NOS needs to be angled. The thickness of the SC is supposed to be good for the 1/8npt nozzles. The tvs1900 has been doing overtime...

 

I had NOS on a jet ski a long time ago, and that used a 90deg fogger, is that not what the w/m uses?

 

Pretty similar in function.

 

So if one were to try tapping threads in Delrin… my intuition says that a thread insert like a helicoil or such would make for a much stronger interface. But would doing so negate the kinda self sealing properties of an NPT thread? A sealant would still be used but would would it hold up to boost and engine vibration? I’m curious..

 

Snow has a Delrin bung for silicone intake hose for their npt nozzles. They also recommend the e6000 sealant since methanol will eat Teflon based sealants.
AES stated you can tap Delrin. The nozzles are pretty light weight.

 

If you are talking about the spacer a very broad rule of thumb figure I’ve seen posted on the web is 10* = ~1%HP.
For NA setup there are other benefits to a spacer but I doubt they factor on a supercharger setup.

 

There is no inherent issue tapping delrin, it just has very low shear strength since it's a plastic so the threads can't take a lot of load compared to most metallics. An insert would certainly help since it increases your thread area. I would be hesitant to run an NPT type thread since your thread depth is limited (which affects your thread shear area), plus a NPT has to be decently torqued to seal---though delrin has a very low stiffness so the threads would easily deform so maybe it doesn't matter.

Considering the low loads the NPT probably isn't a big deal, add something to ensure the threads seal up and then just gingerly tighten everything is what I would do. Or get a fogger (or whatever the water meth is using) that has large non NPT threads. OR run an insert setup (like for composites), even as simple as a nut on the backside so the delrin is clamped and not threaded at all.