1st Gen. Lunch Table - General Discussion

nope, but they’re greasable.

 

Walker was recommended to me when my cats got stolen, for my truck. Haven’t had any issues besides being out of state for Cali haha

 

Walker is one of the three on the list that make cats which won't pop codes in our trucks.

To be safe, you may want to buy "California compliant" cats.

 

I didn't need to say it, you already have!!

 

I think I found one on McLeods site, but I'm gonna call up ADTR, who sells the t56 swap, just to make sure. Looks like it's about $245. This car and truck are just bleeding me dry.

 

I can't remember if my C10 build thread over LS1 tech had the throw info or not. Maybe it was 15/16" required to engage the clutch, and don't go past 1-1/16"? Best advice I got on there, having never touched one of the newfangled hydraulic clutched trannies, was to figure out where the clutch engages, then set a bumper at 1/8"-3/16" past that.

Anyway, this thread may help with pedal stop ideas: https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-swaps/1836729-body-t56-clutch-pedal-travel.html

 

Actually, shit. This video shows a good process, although these guys are saying 1/4", although I don't know which trans they're using. The general consensus searching the interwebs for "t56 pedal travel" is a lot of people reference back to John Bzdel, who was one of the earlier dudes to retrofit a T56, who says 15/16", though a lot of people will say up to 1" is fine. Beyond that, you may break something, overdriving the piston on the cylinder.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f4T2H3KDlAc​

 

Well hell. I'm betting it's a combination of both now. That pedal had at least a good 18" of travel, but the engagement was really high up on the travel. That and being in contact with the header probably blew the seals and cooked the juice.

 

Yeah, were it not for me doing that first LS swap with a manual, I'd be totally ignorant of the importance of pedal travel with hydraulic clutches. But during my swap, I had more than one more-experienced gearhead warn me.

I can only imagine during spirited driving, the last thing you're thinking about is where the clutch is engaging, you're likely slamming that fucker to the floor. I know I would (and do) while driving MT.

 

Just spent a few days up in Colorado and had a 2025 Bronco rental car. I didn't much like it at first, but the more that I drove it the more that it grew on me. I'd never buy one unless I just had money to blow, but it was a good time.

I miss CO already.

 

Almost looks like some parts of NW GA, honestly. Only probably costs 4x as much

 

Ha. Our Airbnb was near the foothills. But we drove up to Breckenridge to explore the higher parts and Loveland pass. Awesome place.

 

I hear stories and see pictures a lot. I've only been there for work, hitting up our offices/sister company offices in Golden, Englewood, and Centennial. Never been to any of the big mount areas like Aspen and Breck. It's definitely on the laundry list.

 

Looks like Toyota Parts started a 15% off sale for Memorial Day early. https://autoparts.toyota.com

 

Just got off the phone with ADTR. They don't use Mcleod slave cylinders. I'm gonna get him some more pics when I can, but he thinks I have an older, weird setup not sold by him. It's got the hydraulics, but it operates the clutch fork instead of a hydraulic TOB is I think what he was saying. I dunno man, I'm just tired of this damn thing already.

 

Could you swap in mustang parts? Didnt the dude you bought it from build it, or know the builder? Might be worth an email.

 

O2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank 2, Sensor 2. That code may indicate a wiring problem or a too rich condition. Sensor 1 could be making the mixture too rich and sensor 2 is showing high voltage. A bluetooth ODB2 scan tool is a great help to see things like fuel trim.

 

@shifty` Is there a fuel pump test connector somewhere on these trucks?

 

Kind of. He gave me a part number to look at, but the TOB is for a T45, T5, or TR-3650. I have a T56 so it may not work. Also it's like $650 not including the TOB. I probably just need to pull that slave out and find a good part number.

 

Pretty sure this is the slave cylinder I need based on the pics.

 

I wonder why they didnt use a hydraulic tob? Not really enough room to get a heat shield in there.

 

If you’re trying to measure pressure, you can check it at the fuel rail with the proper gauge and adapter.

 

(not sure)

 

I think you screw the pressure tester into the rear of the driver side fuel rail where the pulse damper is.

or not. My gauge attaches to a schrader valve…guess i’ll need an adapter when its due.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/2006-tundra-4-7-low-fuel-pressure.69960/

 

Does anyone have a pic of their tundra on a lift? I was just curious about the droop on a stock location shock. TIA!

 

Here you go

 

#2

 

C-10 with an LS1 and T56?
Damn, boy. What happened to it?

 

Kids. Kids happened.