General Supercharger Thread

Many of us have these mods including me, can't definitively say they made a difference but the Sequoia hauls ass.

 

I'm sure the Wife will be thrilled when I tell Her I'm adding another part to my Tundra.......

 

Simple solution, I don't tell my Wife 99.9% of my mods.

 

She's just Jacking with me.
She's knows my history about Truck upgrades.
Once She got past the TRD SuperCharger for my Tacoma She's come to accept the fact that I'm gonna be modding whatever I drive.
I let Her drive my Tacoma and I caught Her smiling....wish I had a pic of it because She'll never admit it.

 

Not sure about noticable, but it reduced inlet vacuum ahead of my TB in testing. Anything that reduces restriction is good for efficiency and HP.

 

I haven’t driven it since the install, only started it and let it idle for a few minutes to ensure everything was good. Going to schedule an appointment for a tune update and have my turbokits maf installed at the same time whenever they can get me in. As others said, the larger throttle body should help. It will be interesting to compare that dyno sheet against my previous one (only change would be the RCF and the new maf, but also running slightly larger and heavier tires now also).

 

Re: Harrop intercooler cap

Thanks again @Silver17

I have yet to loose a drop of IC coolant, since I changed the cap.

and, as of recent, my IAT dropped from a normal 31 degree delta to 29.



I was adding 4 oz's of coolant every month or so.

 

Yeah, I guess it’s kind of a maintenance item. I changed mine also and haven’t been having the staining on the reservoir since. Some reservoirs use a vented cap with a hose you can route down to the ground too I’ve seen. This one just vents and makes a mess of the reservoir.

 

Question: Harrop vs Magnuson.
Not trying to start a pissing match just curious as to why you chose the unit you chose.
In my case i'm going with Magnuson because they made the TRD Supercharger and I never had a problem with it.
Boost isn't an issue since you can only jam so much air into your intake before bad things start happening if you dont build for the extra pressure.

 

Harrop:

1. it was the only available blower bigger than the std 1.9L ~~~at the time.
2. it is NOT upside down.
3. 2 intercooler bricks
4. easy "stage 2 pkg"
5. came with better stickers than mag


>>>Really because @ViktorG wrote a bunch on it.

 

I chose Harrop because:
Warranty issues (i.e. Harrop allows smaller pulleys)
IAT sensor is post-supercharger for a better view at temps going into the engine
Modular design, so I could fit a GM snout and larger throttle body
Airflow through the unit has fewer redirects than Magnuson (not upside-down)
Also, larger unit at the time

 

I was talking to the magnuson guy at the broverland expo last week and mentioned i'd put a smaller pulley on, and he looked really uncomfortable. Seems like they really take their "keep the stock pulley on it" policy seriously

 

Nice info.
But..You can get a smaller pulley for the Magnuson as well.
The question is if your bottom end can handle the extra stress without beefing it up.
I've thought about building a 5.7 from scratch and making it extra strong!!!
But with extra strong and more PSI ya run the risk of tearing shit up no matter how strong you build it.
And stress rolls downhill...ya beef up one component and the others down the line need to be upgraded or they fail.
The quest for Max HP is an expensive one!!!
At some point you get diminishing returns unless you're willing to spend a bunch of money.

 

No surprise there.
If you start pressing a product beyond it's manufactured limits it'll become an issue.

 

https://fiinterchillers.com/tech_articles/upwards-discharge-superchargers-vs-downwards-discharge/
Seems where thermal blankets and spacers can help with heat.
I like a lot of their Tech articles. Reinforces some core principles of SC'ing.

 

When I purchased mine there was no 2650 magnuson yet. I went with the Harrop for the 2650 rotor pack, larger intercooler, post intercooler IAT sensor, and preference for the modular design and downward discharge allowing more room to work around and install the blower. The design also lends itself to ease of pulley swaps, coupler replacement, and removing the whole rotor pack head unit from the manifold portion for servicing. I wouldn’t doubt the 2650 magnuson has cooler IATs out of the box (no spacers or blanket on the Harrop), but it uses the MAF for the IAT so we can’t really compare.

 

It's interesting that the article is stating upward SC (Mag) are cooler IAT's than downward (whipple/harrop).

 

If they were testing at the same point in the system (both pre-SC, or both post-SC) it would be a good test, if the Mag is getting IAT from the MAF it would be cooler regardless of airflow direction.

 

I went Harrop too. It was before the Maggy 2650 was on the street, it was just a TBD item coming.

I really like the packaging of the Harrop unit and wanted the 2650 rotor pack for efficiency.

If I was buying today, I'd compare price, availability, and parts that come with it and buy whichever was cheaper or not back ordered. Ex. Will I be happy with Maggy injectors or would I have to rebuy when I pulled down, etc. I planned on upgrading pulleys so knew DW650 injectors were coming regardless.

 

I believe they were going by intercooler fluid temps. Going by iat sensor placement wouldn't be a fair test as you stated it would be skewed.
Harrop would be my first choice when I upgrade.

 

Few of us already in the process building a stronger short block. Transmission is the limiting factor at about 650whp. But that may change soon with some trying to move to 4l80s and 8speeds.

 

They seem to focus on the difference between the IAT reading and the IC fluid temp readings, and point out the less-than-ideal Harrop IAT sensor placement on the LS3 unit, but I don't see where they mention the location of the IAT sensor on the Magnusson.

I did find images of the IAT location for the LSA Magnusson 2650 units, and they seem to be post-IC bricks as well, but on the underside of the unit? Strange that it wouldn't heat soak as well? Can anyone with a Tundra Maggy 2650 confirm the IAT sensor location?

I wonder if they picked a different unit to test, with a similar IAT locations, if they would have different results? As they mentioned, the Mag unit redirects air twice, which introduces friction and heat at both turns, and the LS3 Harrop tends to heat soak faster (even though the element is isolated by plastic within the sensor).

 

It would be beneficial to know the testing parameters. I believe you said you reduced your IAT's with the runner and heat blanket? Is your new IC reservoir have a pressure cap? How much bigger is it over stock?

 

I see 8 degrees lower idling and 12 degrees lower at speed, probably more from the thermal blanket since the IAT sensor is before the spacers, and I got the aluminum version of the spacers. The new reservoir is 2.4 gallons and has a pressure button installed on the cap.

https://www.cxracing.com/coolant-aluminum-tank/CT-IB-S

 

Thanks! That tank is a better price than my searches.

 

Magnuson...It was free....

I had to spend money to refurbish it at SOL...

 

I more look at it as I know my IAT sensor is reading mostly solid at 30 over ambient all the time. Thats not a big deal to me. Guys running “hot air intakes” on their NA or non intercooled under hood turbo are probably seeing worse than that. That’s kind of like running 2psi of boost with no intercooler as far as temperature rise.

That’s also assuming that 30 degrees is worst case scenario from heat soak of the manifold and sensor being in direct contact with the block. It doesn’t get up to that 30 delta until the engine is fully up to temperature after driving a while. In reality the air itself is probably a good bit cooler than that measured 30 delta, and if I do the manifold spacers and blanket that should really kick the IATs down a notch if it were ever actually a problem.

Towing long grades at sustained 5+psi in summer heat hasn’t seemed to cause me any issues with pinging or knock yet. It’s mostly fun to monitor and try and improve on the numbers.

 

Dude just posted this on FB. Soon.

 

Man you guys were not kidding about shipping being expensive direct through the UPS store, almost $500 for ground and insured. I was like ok, thank you, bye.

Pirateship was a bust, wouldn't let me pay with my paypal. Going to try through my work since apparently we have a way we can ship UPS fully insured plus big discount supposedly, so will see tomorrow.