General Supercharger Thread

I love when the Detroit Locker in the mustang does that... Means it working and the power is being put to the ground .

I also thought the new Detroit Locker was spring loaded and didn't make noise or ratchet like the old ones...
I had an Auburn in my F150 and a Kazuma LSD in my 2002 Tundra.. Had to use the Ford additive and it lasted forever, after I burned out the first one with the Toyota additive and broke the ring and pinion... It didn't work near as well as the Ford additive..

 

Do share, curious what that looks like?

I thought my rear was way out of whack but turns out it’s dead on (and has the SDHQ traction bars hopefully keeping it that way).

The front (total chaos ucas) were definitely off though (toe).

 

Same here. I have the cam brackets welded up but holding off install until I can do it under my lift.

 

The cam tabs are pretty thin stamped sheet metal. Sometimes the tabs break off. I noticed my drivers side caster was off when I rotated my tires. Brought it in and he couldn't get it set so had both caster set at 5.5 and I'd like it around 4 ish. You knock off the factory tabs off and weld in new thicker plate/tabs.
https://www.tundras.com/threads/cam-tabs.56917/page-2

https://www.chaosfab.com/product/2007-2021-Toyota-Tundra-Lower-Control-Arm-Cam-Tab-Gussets-59870

 

I have the octogon style cam tabs

 

Geez. That looks more like a horrible design than a clutch issue.

 

One slot left for the trans mount

 

I wasn’t too impressed. But to be fair, it was in there for over 100k miles. Though the last half of it was giving me fits. I don’t think it was designed to put up with towing and hauling, but it was the only thing available at the time. And better than open for my use.

 

HP Tuners and PSB-1 Analog AFR signal...yellow wire on PSB to the white wire on MPV Pro-link cable....right?!

 

Red and Blue are the analog inputs on the pro-link.

 

Awesome, thank you...red to the PSB and blue for chassis ground, I assume...? Thank you Bryan!

 

Red and Blue are for separate analog devices, black is ground, yellow and orange are for CANbus inputs. You should ground the analog signal to the black wire, use either red or blue for your analog input.

 

Badass! Thank you sir!

 

You can pull boost from the white wire on the map sensor for the psb1. Then just remember what analog you have on the red and blue. I believe @TurboKits posted a good accurate transforming formula for hpt to read it. @blenton posted a formula too. It's in a past post somewhere.

 

Perfect, I got my memories mixed up...I'm just getting things ready for nesr future updates

 

I have installed this kit on my truck, works flawless. (i totally did not f up the stock ones by trying to loosen the wrong side of the cam bolt with my 1/2" impact)

 

My extreme valve body showed up, has anyone converted to the max life or do i need to stay with WS? I'm at 71k miles and it's drain and fill time! I want my trans to last with the 2650.

 

People have used maxlife with no issues. I personally stick with AISIN/ Idemitsu /Toyota. I'm currently running AISIN WS.

 

Weird you can’t see it.

 

His wife must have put the kiddie filter on that blocks illicit photos of truck parts.. Probably needs a parental password to access Summit Racing and Jegs, too.

 

The formula is buried here in the thread somewhere. I can pull it off of my windows machine this weekend and post it.

 

Sounds like another "first page" adder! Thank you all for the help!

 

I think I'll go ahead and do MaxLife, easier to source and i'll stick to 30K drain and fills with it.

I just switched my wife's 2017 QX80 that was having major torque convertor shudder to maxlife from nissan's crappy thin oil and it fixed all the madness, need to trade that crap off before the trans completely dies. Might have put some other fiction modifier voodoo magic in there too that i will not be adding to the tundra.

 

And it’s out! Big thanks to @Mcbelen (MCBAutotech in Houston), dude came down to where I'm at and got this thing pulled really quick.
Got everything plugged and taped off. Inspected the s/c, noticed some odd nicks on the rotor packs, no clue if that's normal but forgot to take pics lol. Got it packaged up and should be shipping it out tomorrow.
Who do you guys normally use to ship these things? I'm thinking of just using UPS.

 

I built a crate, put kaizen foam on the bottom, bolted the manifold to the lower part of the crate, then stuffed it and wrapped the outside with cardboard. 1/2" ply top and bottom, screwed in with #2 Robertson head screws so common-folk that only know how to use peasntly-phillips head screwdrivers couldn't mess with it en route... I thought I had the original box and foam, but ends up I only had the second original box and no foam.

I used Paypal's ShipStation to ship via UPS. It was $100 less then directly through UPS. With the weight and size, you have to click the 'extra handling' option or you won't get a quote. Insured, it was $140ish. Through UPS website (my UPS account lapsed as I don't ship things much anymore) it was $240ish. Weighed 92 lbs in its crate.

 

Tried a WOT shift from 1st to 2nd with the VB. No more mushy shift, the trans feels more poised to handle the torture now.

 

Same as @blenton , I got one of those plastic totes from home Depot and snugged it up inside and taped the shit out of it. I use Pirate Ship to get packaging slips, just don't go direct through UPS since it's a fortune.

 

I looked at ShipStation.com but they don't seem to have an option to get a rate without making an account first.

Looking at PirateShip, 292.54 for 2-day air, 393.90 for next day air saver through UPS. Shipping options only have $100 carrier liability, do you add the InsureShield?

 

You should have an option after listing the dimensions of how much to insure it for. I sure as shit wouldn't air ship it but to each their own