What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

I have to look into my vent system as when I turned it on for the first time, I got a bunch of black foam pieces shooting out at me. But as I messed with the controls, a big wad of mouse nest flew up and got stuck in the middle vent louvers. So time to open up all the vents and vacuum out the vent passages. That's not the first or last nest I'll probably find (actually it is the 4th). So far, I've found one in the tire kit well under rear seat, under the intake, air duct, and the weirdest one in the hallow on the rocker panel between front and rear door.

 

2 days ago, I applied the marine JB Weld to the bottom of my leaking differential. So far, so good and no leaks while it is sitting there. It was dripping bad enough that I had to keep an oil pan under it. Trying to just slow it down until I can pickup a new axle for it which I have found a couple options but they are all on hour+ away. I'll let it sit for another 2 days as I am trying to troubleshoot something else at the moment.

I put a new battery in it back in Jan when I first started messing with it after delivery from IL. Haven't had any issues starting it from Jan-Apr. The last time I drove it, I forgot to turn the headlights off (got used to automatic headlights in the CR-V) and killed the battery. Jumpstarted it last week and let it run for half an hour to let the battery charge up. Went to move it Tue and the battery was dead again. Made sure all of the lights were off and jumped/moved it to the driveway for the axle repair and charged the battery backup again. The only thing that I had done electrically was add a Bluetooth kit from Crutchfield that plugs into the back of the radio into the cd changer port in April. I don't see the light on it when the key is off and the Bluetooth doesn't stay connected after it shuts off. Has anyone had any issues with this that have used the unit? I can make a new thread for this issue if needed.

 

Entry points, I'm guessing, are the cowl opening, and the rear cab wall vents. Possibly the rear cab wall vents have lost or had their rubber flaps chewed out.

 

GOOCH COOLER!

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I knocked it out in less than an hour. From what I could see my coils and surrounding area were remarkably clean. Nothing to vacuum out (Yay!!!). I basically did what a dealership would have done and if it stays anything as fresh and yummy chemical smelling as it is right now…. I’ll be pleased. One thing I did note. The base of all the contacts of the resistor had a white ashy corrosion going on. I just left it as is since it works but it will be the first thing I suspect if my blower control shits out or if the wires at the base of the blower motor melt off….God forbid. Thx for all the advice!! BTW…. Part One Formula was the same as what you described…very ammonia like…. Strong window cleaner smell…

 

One thing that bugs me is my Tundra will lock the all the doors with the key from the driver side, but my Corolla only locks the doors with the key on the passengers side.

 

Yup, that's it. Like a "classic" glass cleaner, what we used as a kid. Man, maybe memories of how that shit smelled are why I love Sprayway glass cleaner so much. Which reminds me, I need to buy another box of that stuff. I wish Costco sold it.

 

It's much more of a pain in the ass to change the filter with this new intake tube. But I think the filter was due. New OEM.

 

I always seem to buy a can when I'm at the store. I have 5 3/4 full cans under the sink. Best glass cleaner ever.

 

I had a couple cans under the sink, at least one in my shop, one in the downstairs bathroom, and two in the garage, maybe three, one on my side, two on hers. I think I just tapped out the last can. I'm shocked. And I was just at WalMart too, I got all my chemicals except the damn cleaner. Dammit.

 

I'm pretty sure sprayway is the same brand that I use for glass cleaner. It's extremely multi-purpose and even kills piss ants!

 

Just checked mine (thought it had already been changed out during all of this) found another mouse nest. Luckily they didn't touch the filter in the top of the air box.

 

Weren't you have some really weird codes recently dealing with air/fuel ratio, like 'too lean' or something?

You may want to clean your MAF in case some of that got jammed on the sensor.

If they're in your airbox, they're probably coming in up thru the fender. If I were you I'd put some hardware cloth over the cold air intake hole (google Hardware Cloth if needed), 14 gauge and no larger than ½" opening, any hardware store may have it.

You'll find that hole they're getting in thru right here: Actually, you may want to pop off the (three?) bolts holding the bottom half of that clamshell on, and install it on the opening that's inside the fender, so they don't have a ledge to stand on and chew thru the hardware cloth. Mice supposedly hate mint also, wonder if lacing that area with mint oil would be a deterrent?

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All good ideas. But these are all old mouse nests from sitting at my dad's house. Not new ones luckily. Like I said, I thought the filter got changed during the oil change but the record does not show it. The element that sits in the top cover above the air filter was completely intact, so I don't think anything made it to the fuel system.

The only codes I showing are for the passenger side O2 sensors/catalytic converter.

 

I prefer "turbo ball chiller 9000"

 

Yep, that is the only drawback

 

A FGT, in COsprings, all set up and ready to go, coastals front and rear, lifted, looked like at least 33s, can't find it now...
You still have that link BlackSnek?

EDIT: Might have been nice of me to say it was for sale for 8k... but I'm semi retarded and older than F.

 

This is for yesterday. Did an average mileage check: (drum roll) 15 mpg.

This is in southern WV (hills) and not pulling anything.

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Today pulled the 12 foot trailer, mowed 4 yards.

 

NOPE

 

Damn...

 

Hey is it worth the extra money for dobinson springs vs ome springs? Looking to get some bilstein 5100s wondering if I should get a cool teal coil or same some money haha

*realized I posted this in the wrong place

 

https://youtu.be/9s271Ln-6QI?si=iSPSv5MW0eXc4JNc

 

I’ve seen that video, but I’m more asking just about the coil not the actual shock. I’m going with the 5100s but I don’t know if it’s worth the extra money for the dobinson coil vs the ome coil

 

It was for me.

but I was satisfied with OME 2883's on bottom perch. When I needed a little more lift the 2883's on 2nd perch were too harsh. Dobbies back on the bottom perch were best for the lift I needed

 

Changed front and rear diff and transfer case oil. Found out that the previous person who did it overtorqued everything, reused the gaskets, rounded off the transfer case fill bolt, and even stacked gaskets on one of them. Had a tiny leak there. It pays to just do it yourself.

I bought a new transfer case fill bolt. I couldn't find that one discussed here. The part number is 90341-A0002. I used the part finder website @shifty` has listed in the "So you want to buy a first gen Tundra?" thread. It made it easy enough.

I used Amsoil Severe Gear in all of them.

$39 75W-90 GL-5 Limited Slip, Ultra Long Drain 500k Miles, Manual Transmission, Gear/Differential Lubricant (1 Gallon)

75W-90 GL-5 in the front and transfer case. 75W-140 GL-5 in the rear per the manual. I will use the GL-4 in the manual transmission when I do it.

Also did the Lexus drain and fill plug upgrade in the front, but strangely those were the easiest plugs to loosen, despite them being the ones I was most worried about.

Here are the differential and transfer case torque specs.

This video helped a little for the front differential.

Here's a direct link to the Lexus part numbers and the Toyota gasket part numbers. The gasket part numbers were especially helpful. THEY ARE CORRECT. The part guys were not thrilled about looking all of them up, and I even saw a part site online that got one of the gasket numbers incorrect.

Thanks to members past and present for the discussions that made all this information easily accessible.

 

What I would tell you is, there's a lot less info on apples to apples comparison on lift with Dobinsons. I think we did end up figuring out what was equivalent to the 2884, roughly, at least for one of our cab types, and I know Dobinsons has similar incremental step-up where you'll get ½" - ¾" more/less lift between each model, but I haven't had time to dig up their spec sheet to try and ballpark where each should land you based on cab type.

The fortunate thing about OME springs is, they're so damn popular and have been used so many times with our trucks, we have extremely sound lift data for various cabs and drivetrains. Dobbies don't get used as much, but everyone on here that's used them, @Weagle @Tundra2 and plenty of others in that list, they've generally been really happy with the ride.

 

Stranded until tomorrow when Toyota gets my new brake shoes in.

I ordered a set of AC Delco's off of rock auto. The driver side fit perfectly. No issues whatsoever. The passenger side shoe was too small for the adjustment cylinder and locking bracket to work properly. I tried readjusting, reinstalling the old springs, taking it apart and doing it again for a few hours with the same results. Did some troubleshooting with Shifty and then reinstalled the hardware on to the old pair and the locking mechanism worked as designed.

Now I have to finish the passenger side and then redo the driver side tomorrow. The good news is that I'll be able to do this job in my sleep with all of this experience.

I need a joint lmao.

 

Got an AC Delco part number on those shoes? I'd like to add that to the Non-OEM Corner of Shame thread. I generally trust Delco for parts quality too, in a pinch. It's almost all I used on my GM vehicles.

Sorry you reinstalled that side 3x! Should've mentioned to try reinstalling OEM first. I know you said you reinstalled the OEM springs and such, I guess I just assumed...

Meanwhile, you did grease all (6?) points on the dust shield during install, right? Since you gotta swap new shoes in again anyway, it's worth bringing up. I see the lube in your pic.

 

Part number is ACDELCO 17764B

I did go ahead and grease up the contact points.

I thought it was user error for the first few times. Thinking that I did something wrong on the reinstall. Reinstalling the original was the last stand lol.

 

Just got it broken in today...