2000 Limited TRD refresh/repair story

Hmmmm. I guess I thought I was safe with using dish soap. We’ll have to see once they’re fully dry.

 

Also- I know there are a million posts on here about low oil pressure. But like, this isn’t even above the bottom line.


This is after two hours on the highway, but I haven’t seen it this low before. Maybe I’ll replace the sender this summer? I’m not really worried about it.

 

Hell yea lots of good info. Thanks for that, I'll shoot you a message here in a day or so

Huh haven't had that happen to me yet, and I've been reallyyyyy rough with mats at times. My guess is some chemical in the dish soap did it, but dang.

 

This is what they look like fully dry:


A lot less green, but they still don’t match.

 

Same burnishing effect I saw on my OEM front mats. Someone apparently cleaned mine as well, and they were almost purplish in some spots instead of grey. Patterns strangely similar to yours.

 

Damn. Guess I ruined my floor mats then. Hmm.

 

Damn reminds me of old shag carpet from hippie vans lol. Looks like it was agitated too much

Have you looked at Husky floor mats? Got a pair of those and dig them. Pretty easy to clean and fit the footwells pretty darn well. I'll take a couple pics for ya tomorrow if you want

 

I’d wait until they’re completely dry, then attack the mats with purple power at full strength. Keep the mats saturated wet while scrubbing them for about 5 minutes a side. Then blast them with a pressure washer. I’ve cleaned old stinky gear oil out of automotive carpet by doing that same procedure.

 

https://classicleatherdye.com/produ...mCHbWDneY8CzRUpR3i1NGvPQKgTi3GCX8SXrkT1rAcoDL

 

Also for the seats

$130 NLQR Front Driver and Passenger Side Bottom & Top Back Replacement Seat Covers Microfiber Leather Tan Compatible with Toyota Sequoia Tundra 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CBMTHVCG/?coliid=I3OII1N9PUEFDM&colid=1HKPHR40S9L3F

 

Mine looks just like that. Even after I replaced with the superseded, superseded part number. It may just be the cluster getting old. I've stopped worrying about it.

Edit: here’s a pic from a few weeks ago. Yes, I was texting @BroHon that morning

 

It’s been a few months and finally got round tuit as far as their newer super dooper oil pressure sensor….83520-60051. Took it out before the evening was over.
Normally @ idle 700rpm’s, I would read at 1/4 mark and 2000 rpm, 1/2 way point. After exchange, the newer one was at the line just below the H at 2K rpm and idle was 1/2 way. I said Fk that charlie and put original back in

 

That's the one I have now. So is your 04 OEM 83520–34020?

 

No clue what my original one is, which is in there now and will stay there until it craps out or hell freezes over.

Looking at Ourisman for my 04 DC LTD, they show 83520-60051 that replaced a few including that one you're showing.

 

I have, but I've always held off as there's always something more important that I could do with that money. Maybe this is a sign.

Yeah, I need to do an interior refresh soon. I want to pull the carpet out, clean it real good (without washing out the dye!), and recover the drivers seat bottom. The passenger is in decent shape, and the backseat looks awesome. Have you used that carpet dye? I didn't see 0C1 listed on that site, but I only looked briefly...

I'm definitely not worried about it. But it would be real cool if there was an easy way to get it to function like a normal gauge...

 

Is there a replaceable bulb on the inside of the fog light switch? I literally just watched the backlight burn out.

 

Yeah, here are some pics. I jammed an old/extra incandescent in there... If irc, the LED didn't provide enough light (didn't face out at a 90deg angle).
Also, I couldn't get the other socket to light in any position. I thought it might glow when it was off with the parking or headlights on? Someone else might be able to elaborate on that and what it's for?
I am a 2000 vintage as well, so its apples to apples




Edit: found this in my archives

 

Thanks boss.

 

Removed the bedcover to gain some more room to move out of my college dorm. Built this storage rack to hang it from the garage door track in my garage. Just a couple of 2x4s and some thin dyneema ropes. The bedcover weighs probably 80lbs and has a lot of damage from being stored on its end, so I really wanted to figure out how to store it flat.


I also hauled a bunch of old gravel, rocks, and bricks. Should’ve gotten a better photo- probably had 4x this amount when I hauled it to the dump. I forget how nice this thing rides with 1000lbs in the bed.


I got curious and decided to pull the bedcover. First time it’s been removed in 25 years, and there was a fair amount of gunk under it. The truck has spent very little time without the bedcover on it, which I think has been really good for it.


That said- there was plenty of rust. A bunch of surface spots, and a handful of really gnarly crusty holes. This was expected- I could see them from the bottom. For now I’m going to coat the rust spots real good in surface shield and put the bedcover back in, with the drain plugs removed for better drainage.




It looks like most of the rusty spots are all on flat sections, so they should be pretty easy to cut out and replace in the future. All of the bed bolts were replaced when the frame was replaced, and they look like they’d be pretty easy to remove in the future.

It’s interesting to see how much wear is on these spots where we’ve put a 1x6 for mounting a bike rack.


Also, the LED cargo lights I installed work excellently without the bedcover.

 

Just noticed that there’s a leak from the rear diff. Don’t think it’s the rear cover or due to rust- it’s either from the pinion seal or the seam between the housing and the 3rd member.

I always park in this exact spot at my girlfriend’s house. Looks like it’s been leaking for a few days at least.


It’s wet around the pinion and the bottom, but it always kinda does because of the surface shield. It’s been parked in this spot for three hours, and there’s already two drips.

 

Well...
1. Make sure you check the level and add more diff juice if needed
2. Get some Brakleen and clean it up real good so you can see what's what
3. If you haven't changed the breather now would be a great time to do so
4. Put some cardboard underneath before you wreck your GF's driveway (potentially far worse consequences than a diff failure)

You can take all summer to sort it out as long as you keep it full of oil. A leaky pinion seal will fling oil, so it would be easy to see it spread under the bed and adjacent areas. A leak at the gasket (or RTV seam at the carrier if someone's had it out previously) will be similarly obvious once you clean it up. It's unlikely IMHO that it would leak there, unless someone's had it out.

 

Yeah, hard part is that the rear cover on the diff is rusted enough that I’m scared to try to loosen the plug. When I changed the oil (which was very clean when I put it on my finger) I filled the diff through the vent hole. Makes it a bit hard to check the level.

The 3rd member has never been removed from the housing so I don’t think it’s leaking from there. I’m going to have to take a better look at it, but for now I’m assuming it’s the pinion seal. YouTube tutorial looks pretty easy.

 

Just paint mark both the pinion nut and gear before removal. Put it right back to the mark.

This keeps the preload correct for the pinion bearings.


You could always just drain and fill with 3 fresh quarts if you're unable to check level.

 

With the amount of heavy oil and rustproofing saturation on that thing, hit it fervently with brake cleaner or similar before paintmarking, I'd recommend.

Or better yet, take a cutoff wheel and etch lines thru the rust, use it as a dial to get back to where you wanna be.

 

I don't think a cutoff wheel will fit inside the ponion flange.

The nut is recessed.

 

weak like clutch packs? Did you do drain & fills or a fluid flush? Oops, seem to have answered an old post… still curious.

 

Well, that shop told me that because they had replaced a solenoid two times previously. Despite me telling them to replace with an OEM solenoid, they didn’t. Three times the cheap aftermarket solenoids failed. When it failed the third time, they told me that there has to be another issue with the trans that’s making the solenoid fail. They didn’t actually diagnose anything to prove that though.

I took the truck to a different trans shop, and they properly diagnosed it as a solenoid issue.