2013 Sequoia Limited to TRD FAUX build now with BOOST!

Another bad tune on a supercharger.

Nice hood!

 

Dang. I'll probably just leave the M3 engine alone. All I've done to it so far are adding a larger Mishimoto oil cooler, and e-fan conversion.

I like that vented hood a lot better than almost every other option. A lot less aggressive looking than the GTR hood. That one just doesn't look right on a convertible.

 

Don't blame you.

 

I do recommend the oil cooler though! It's twice as large as the original, and it did bring my engine temp down a little. Also had the radiator replaced with a new OEM. These years are notorious for running hot. Not surprising with an 8k rpm redline

 

I have a gigantic oil cooler & aftermarket radiator.



https://www.zionsvilleautosport.com/store/bmw-e36-z3-s54-high-capacity-aluminum-oil-cooler/

 

nice! when i was talking with Mishimoto way back when. They recommended a vented hood if I went with their aluminum radiator. At the very least one of the center vents just behind the rad fan. Because the under hood temps tend to increase with those.

 

Head will be ready tomorrow, block Monday or Tuesday, I got lucky, he found one for 350.
Water and methanol starting to go in.

Tapped the intake elbow for the injection nozzle.

Based the location on the only picture from the elbow's perspective I had.


Test fit the pump & reservoir.

 

New block & head picked up by the builder, he will assemble it this weekend.

 

Opened bank 1 valve cover, looks great to me. (has 100% loss on leak down in piston1)

 

Damn that's clean. Looks like the valves are still in place, held by keepers to the retainers. Do you see or hear anything when rotating it over with a socket on the crank pulley?

 

143k, I got it a 120. I took very good care of it & it was dealer servivced every 5k for 90% of it's life.

That is why I was very surprised when it failed & also is why I feel like a light reconditioning will be ok. (for the less than 20k miles that I need)

 

That motor I bought supposedly had 170k and looks like it's had 3 oil changes. I've never seen that much oil caked on anything...it's a disaster. I was amazed the bearings and journals look as good as they do.

 

One thing to think about...what is the brass fitting, iat temp? Depending on direction of flow the W/M can cool the probe and give a false reading. But either direction it looks close and could skew readings.

 

I haven't rotated it, I will & report.

The brass fitting routes vacuum to the ICV (IDLE control valve) it's a stupid ancient OBD1 POS that the car needed to idle properly, I need to ask the tuner of the MAP sensor based stand alone needs it I'd love to get rid of it.

Due to under hood clearances, that was the only place/angle to put the nozzle and have it facing into the TB which the tuner said was critical.

 

I'm sure it's all good. I just wanted to point out that w/m can give false temps if sprayed on a iat sensor.

 

I appreciate the input, thanks

 

Installed the ECB-1 on the left side. Upper left side is bank 2 (driver side) afr, upper right peak boost. I did not install it's fuel sensor as I have that on the ECF-1 on the right side so can't have any of the fuel related info so both bottom gauges are real time boost

The ECF-1 on the right gauge has bank 1 afr, ethenol % fuel pressure and temp

https://vimeo.com/1079198159?share=copy

 

Just to clarify bank 1 is drivers side and bank 2 is passenger side.

 

Guess I have been thinking of them backward. The gauges are connected to the side that I'm looking at from the seat, ECB is on the left, ECF right.

 

Opened the driver side valve cover, looks the same.

 

Moving forward again!

 

The old Sequoia motor apparently had a ton of oil blowing through piston 2, the clean one is 1.

 

What's the part with the engraved numbers on it?

 

I think it is a valve, I can't get the piston to go much lower, I have the upper left side bolt through the starter gear ring as I could not get it lined up. I plan to pick it up off the stand & move it.