2006 Factory Trailer Plug Question

So I picked up one of those Diode Dynamics trailer hitch brake / reverse lights.

It came with a harness you put inline before the plug. (behind it)
So it's supposed to be an un-plug / plug & play set up.
I have this stock plug (pic below) and it 'appears' to be 1 piece.
My eyes are crap, so I can't seem to see if there is a joint/ seam where it would pull apart.

I do see these tabs (arrows) , are those keys to press & pull ? Or are they permanent deal?

The dotted line is where there 'could' be a seam . . . I'm just not certain with my crap eyes.

I didn't wanna start yanking, pushing, pulling on something I'm unfamiliar with.
Thanks for any help.

 

Check the 1st video in this timely video in my reply around the 20m50s mark I mention: https://www.tundras.com/threads/wha...-gen-tundra-today.2558/page-2337#post-3908562

Maybe it helps?

 

Thank You . . . but I think this one is a different plug unit . . . I don't see that 12 o'clock groove / release tab on mine.
It's round all the way around it, that's why I thought those little tab indentions may be to release it . . . I'll go double check to make sure.

 

If those tab indentions don't release it, maybe the rear part with the wires comes out?
See if you can gently pry it out.

Good luck..

 

Yeah, I think those tab indentions have something to do with releasing it.
There's 4 of them, they're at 10:00 & 2:00 . . . and 8:00 & 4:00.
If you look just right you can see through them from one side to the other.
I was able to get a really small allen key through each side.
When I push on one side, you can hear a 'click' . . . but nothing when I try to wiggle. Push on the other side and it 'clicks' back.
I think it'd probably easier for someone w/ more experience with different plug types than me.

I don't wanna break anything, and I need to trailer my boat this weekend . . . so I'm gonna cool my jets and look on the interweb on how that plug releases.

I may just look for an entire new one and ditch this one.

I'll keep this thread updated as I find more.
Thanks for the help..


EDIT - I think I may have found it . . . this dude has/ had the same plug. Stand by.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/7-pin-trailer-harness-plug-replacement-tip.288024/

 

. . . and just like 'everything electrical' on this truck . . . I've opened another can of worms.
The factory plug isn't going to work with the Diode Dynamics pigtail harness.
So I ordered a Hopkins Part #43385 wiring kit that's 'supposed' to fit my truck.
Chances are it won't, and if it does, I doubt it'll work with the DD Pigtail.
Just watch, this is going to be one of those deals where I end up buying a half dozen kits before I end up with one that works.

I even went to my local Mom & Pops Auto Parts store to se if he could order me one . . . and when I showed him the pigtail, he wanted nothing to do with it ! LOL.

Here's Hopkins kit I ordered . . .

 

I can at least confirm that Hopkins replacement (43385) worked perfectly on my DC to replace my bashed and broken factory socket.

 

FYI - the "12:00 Groove" is on the inside. It's what helps you line up the plug correctly (you probably know this already, but just going off what I read in your earlier post).
For the Diode Dynamics part - and probably for the Hopkins one as well - I believe you have to trace that harness back to where it plugs into the vehicle harness. On my 2006 Tundra, the plug was on the driver's side, under the bed, near the left taillight.
I cannot speak for the 43385, but sounds like @Mustanley used it. I replaced the factory 4-wire flat with the round

$24 Hopkins 47185 Multi-Tow 4 Flat to 7 Blade and 4 Flat Adapter

Hopkins 47185 (Universal), so I had to cut wires... but it worked just fine.
Best of luck with it!

 

As I expected . . . the Hopkins seems 100% fine for straight trailering, and the plugs that tie into the factory toyota harness look great.
But there's no way (that I can see) to separate the plug from the insert portion, so I can get this DD pigtail in line.
The hopkins plug is all one piece if that makes sense.

I'm just gonna call Diode Dynamics in the morning and see if they know of a vendor who sells what I'm looking for.
I really don't want to have to make my own wiring harness for this thing, as I HATE wiring.
Plus I'm color blind, which makes wiring a total pain in the ass for me.

The type I need is the kind that goes 'through' a bumper where you mount the 'face' on the outside and the plug portion fits behind the bumper. . . 'NOT' the type that bolts to the frame and hangs down below.
Ideally what I'm looking for is a frame mounted one that separates . . . but I understand that wouldn't make much sense to make.

 

If you’re wanting one ‘through’ the bumper, wouldn’t you have to cut about a 2” round hole in bumper ?

If so, use what you got. Take that rusty L shape bracket off, cut hole just to fit the plastic socket, leaving enough room for the plastic bolt holes to grasp to bumper and bolt it down.

 

I'm wanting a frame mount that disassembles like a 'through' the bumper. So I can get this DD pigtail in line.
It's tough for me to describe what I'm trying to achieve . . . sorry about that.

 

I think i understand what you're looking for, could you send some (more?) Pictures, and let's figure it out. I'm currently unemployed, not by choice, so I have some time on my hands, I'm happy to help - if-I-can

 

Could you send a picture of what you got from Diode Dynamics?
Looking at this with fresh eyes, it appears you're mounting the brake/reverse lights on your truck(?), and the harness you got ties into the existing wiring? If so (and if it's designed to fit your vehicle), it should tie in under the bed, to the rear of the spare, between the spare and the bumper. If memory serves - and I can confirm if needed, that's where the trailer wiring ties in.
You don't want to pull the existing trailer wiring plug apart, nothing but misery for you in there.
If you have the DD part number or pictures, that would also help.

 

I called Diode Dynamics and spoke with their customer service.
I told him what I had going and he wasn't sure of a vendor who sells what I'm looking for.
He mentioned the company 'Curt manufacturing' that sells a lot of different trailer stuff . . . so that'll be my next stop.
Seems like I'm going to have to build my own harness, which i was hoping to avoid.

Here's the light I have . . . .

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9qeKiANmSIo

 

Thanks for sending that. I watched the installation video, now I see better what you're doing.
IF the light you ordered is vehicle-specific, it should fit right in line, like you said originally. However, the place to take that 7-pin connector apart is not where your arrows indicate. I THINK the place where you take it apart is where I have drawn the rectangle. That more closely coincides with the video. If it comes apart at that point, you should be able to connect your light in-line. Then you slide the light through the back of your receiver - or, slide the light in through the front, threading the wire out the back of the receiver. It also looks like the light stays in the receiver, maybe it slides to the back when you attach a hitch? The videos didn't really indicate.
If you do have to do some wiring - if the harness doesn't fit and/or the factory 7-blade connector doesn't come apart - you just need to "tap into" two wires on the back of the OEM wiring. The center wire is reverse, and both side wires - at 3 and 9 - are the brake/turn lights. See the image I included. Hope this helps.

 

So if I want this thing to work, I'm going to have frankenstein a harness.
Looks like a Hopkins 47210 may work for the plug portion.
Then I'm going to have to source the 2 Toyota plugs to connect to the factory tow package wiring.
Here's a pic of the 47210 . . . .

 

Ok . . . getting close . . . I just need to find a source for these toyota plugs so that I can tie this new harness back into the toyota.
Anyone have an idea where i can buy them???

 

@BubbaW and @daveeasa are both 10x better at looking up connectors than me. I bet they can find them. Hell, Dave may even be able to make them into pigtails for you in a nice stout gauge, for the right price.

 

Yeah, I went with that plan, but @Puppypunter's suggestion was converting to the 3rd gen Taco Aptiv single round connector style. I actually changed mine up a bit b/c the OG setup had ground in the 4 position and reverse in the 3 I think? And I wanted to do all the smaller wires in the 4 and the bigger ones in the 3 since I went 10 gauge for aux power, then 12 for ground and brake controller. I also fed left, right, parking and reverse off the 6 position (only 5 populated) center connector meant to feed the flat 4 way tow connector for the PnP poor man setup so I really wanted a direct feed from that to the 4 position, then I did my own ground (still have to do the ring terminal on it, I picked the prop valve mounting bracket for ground, good size bolt direct to frame and some clean metal once I loosened it, but non structural) and then my 10 and 12 gauge to the engine bay waiting to mate up with circuit breakers and brake controller output.

I believe Corsa stocks these, let me look them up.

 

https://www.corsa-technic.com/item.php?item_id=1846
https://www.corsa-technic.com/item.php?item_id=1847
https://www.corsa-technic.com/category.php?category_id=228

Can't find the 4 position one right now but I believe it's also SUMI 187 series. Just don't know where/how I got it. I bet Sarah might hunt it down if we asked.

 

Those appear to be what I'm looking for.
I was thinking that if I can't find them for sale somewhere , I guess I could scavenge the ones off this other Hopkins harness.
Maybe cut & leave some of the wire length and then splice them in line.
I was hoping not to add more splices than the couple dozen that this stupid setup already has going. LOL.

 

I believe any sumi 187 will work. And I posted photos so you know they can be found. I got mine years ago and don’t remember where. I’m 1 month into the install which is maybe a handful of hours because I’m so time constrained.

I’ll ask @Puppypunter to help locate the 4 positions. The 3’s are linked above.

 

Much appreciated !
I'm worse than terrible a electrical . . . I don't have a problem doing the actual 'work' portion of it, but i've always struggled to 'understand' it.
Couple that with being color blind, and I'm a total mess.

 

@HBTundra
Female https://www.hi-1000ec.com/phone/product/3464
Male https://www.hi-1000ec.com/phone/product/3463
hi1000-ec also carries the 3 pin
Female https://www.hi-1000ec.com/phone/product/2980
Male https://www.hi-1000ec.com/phone/product/2978

They are as much to ship as buying the full set unfortunately, but they are the only ones I could find that carry them. They are a Sumitomo TS187 as pointed out by Dave, so you will need these terminals:
https://www.hi-1000ec.com/phone/product-list/184

I’ve made a few of these for 4Runners. I think I still have the parts for them if you’d like me to make one up for you, let me know. I can make it tee right in there and run it down to a deutsch DT connector to plug right into the Diode Dynamics C1R. If you’d want to go the DIY route, I’m here to advise as well. Nothing wrong with that. Just be aware that the 187 stuff requires a little larger open barrel crimper than most.
As to the 7 pin trailer plug, the type you have is different than the one that the “universal” plugs are designed for. The universal style didn’t start being widely used until around 2020 or so, and still isn’t actually “universal” yet. Toyota did adapt early thankfully, but not 2006 early. The type you have will pull apart, but you can’t really make a tee for it. It will be much more like 1/4” spade connectors inside.

 

And for the record, I debated myself fairly extensively on going with the round Aptiv connector in modern rigs or sticking with the sumi 187 and decided to just stick with sumi 187 and swap reverse and ground between the 3 and 4. It just looked clean that way to me. And if it got damaged I can somewhat easily replace it with a little de-pin and re-pin.

In hindsight I really wish I had asked BFF to do a Taco 3rd gen style cutout rather than FGT, I’d much prefer one of those, but it’s too late now. And maybe there is something semi cool about being legit old school, though I do plan to eventually swap to new Tundra blackout decals so I think looks are going to be a mashup.

 

Thanks so much @Puppypunter !

Here's where I'm at with mess so far, bare with me.
I've got a new hitch outlet and bracket to mount to the frame.
This one allowed me to put the DD Harness in line.
It has loose wires at the end where it needs to connect to the factory wiring. (plugs)

On the right side of the pic. is the Hopkins plug to toyota I originally purchased . . . but I couldn't separate the plug to get the DD harness in line.

I was considering just cutting the toyota plugs off that harness on the right with some extra wire, and splice that into the contraption I have going.
All the plugs fit nice & snug so far . . . but I feel like I'm kind of at the end of the road with my program, and realize that it's pretty hokey.

Thoughts ?

 

The new 7 pin fits your bumper okay? If that’s the case, I think putting those Toyota plugs on it is a good idea. Are those wires long enough for what you need? I’d be happy to send you some wires with the terminals crimped on and you can just swap them into the plugs if you wanted. I have the heavier gauge wires, though I’m not sure the colors would match. I can also remake just this part:


Both of those connectors are pretty easy to de-pin though, so I think just some wires with the terminals crimped would make your life a lot easier. If you want that, shoot me a PM with how long you want it and an address