WHAT HAVE YOU DONE TO YOUR 3RD GEN TUNDRA TODAY?

I deleted the rear panels. I don’t have any rattling in my cab. I can feel the bass from JBL door speakers near my knees after the Beat Sonic amp. Doors on mine aren’t rattling either. Maybe if I went dual sub there would be rattling everywhere. One sub is more than enough for me.

 

Added 1794 wheels. I was going to put some 34” Toyo AT3s on soon but these came with brand new factory tires. I’m going to run these down while I work on paying off the truck.

 

Nice, thats where I want to mount my LOC knob. I al not running three knobs to the front, amp gain knobs can stay in the back.

 

I have figure out if can dismantle the knob and fit it.

I have a dual 10 box like yours, planning on sending back. If someone wants to save some cash I would sell it for $450 vs the $600 new

 

I wasn’t happy with the clearance under my driver seat with the JBL amp, LOC, and extra wires/harnesses so I got some seat spacers on Amazon and lifted the front of my seats by half an inch. Now I can reach under there and pull out my LOC if needed for adjustments.

 

I googled my model number (Kicker knob) and found that it was possible. I pulled hard on the knob and thought I would break it. Glad someone else has done it before!

 

I forgot to mention. I didn’t use the LOC knob. It was too wide. I used the knob for the kicker amp. I had the LOC at flat settings and tuned the amp.

 

Any pics of the backside of the mounting of the knob?

 

I used dikes to snip through the inside of the button and painters tape and a nail to get my pilot hole through the front. Then I just stepped up on drill bits until the knob shaft could go through.




If you use the same button I did, it has retaining teeth at the top and bottom and come out pushing the button in towards the front of the truck. All the other buttons are retained left and right (all the buttons touching each other, top and bottom) and come out towards the rear of the truck.

 

Picked up an S&B intake.

 

I see your custom LOC mount, and raise you mine...

 

Haha, I need to figure out how to trump you both, though both look great

 

This is where mine will go.

I see your mount and give you the stealthiest mount ever

 

Awesome, dry or oiled filters?

 

You'll love it.

 

No idea...for what I paid, I was more worried about someone beating me to it

You rocking this?

 

I installed an AWE exhaust last week, didnt post up pics, trucks dirty atm and it rains all the time.

 

Where from if I might ask?
Is the "D" in the p/n for dry filters?

 

Think it fell off a truck and the nice young man that I got it from was able to pick it up and sell it to me

 

whats the consensus about dry vs oiled? Whats everyone going with?

 

Correct, "D" indicates dry filters.

 

Ahhh, Midnight Auto Supply.
I won't tell.

 

I have been eyeballing AFe intakes, maybe down the road…

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/176695281514

 

When I flip back and forth on S&B's website, the Dry filters show up white and the Oiled filters show up red, like K&N's.
I'm torn between AFe's and S&B's intakes.

 

Single sub...its all relative. lol. This was a nasty box I ran for years...got louder when I upgraded sub and amp.

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/c4hewb9Cc-E

 

I don't think there is a consensus. I think there's preference.
I'm gonna go Dry.

IIRC, oiled flows better but a typical oiled cotton gauze filter lets more dirt through. At least that was the case with K&N's.
Different makers use different/better filtering material? Possibly.
I'm sticking with better filtration over marginally better flow.

 

As long as you like bright red boxes under your hood..... I suppose easily cured with a rattle can of flat black.

 

I am leaning Dry and replaceable. One item on my long list of things I want.

 

I did the Magnaflow Overland exhaust. Killed me having dual tail pipes and the side step. This is how she looks now: