1st gen tundras! Touch Screen head unit. Who's got what?

Speaking of screens, in case it's interesting for anyone ... I'm attaching a ZIP file here with a bunch of Toyota/TRD wallpapers in 800x480 resolution. It seems like that's the native resolution of the ilx- W650/670/770 and the 407. But The 507, Halo9, Halo11 all seem to use larger/variable resolutions.

It's possible other brands use the same resolution, or will trim these to fit also. Screencap of the ZIP contents here, there's a BMP and PNG file for each, look below the images here to find the ZIP file to download all at once. And yes, I don't know my left from right. Momma always told me I was a little bassackwards.

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I wish my 19 Highlander had Carplay. I go the LE and it was still too poverty to get the Carplay option. I had to go up another trim model to get that. I've thought about upgrading that radio as well, but that's a whole different subject.

 

You may be able to retrofit an OEM head unit from another vehicle that has it. The big thing to be careful of is JBL vs. non-JBL systems. Toyota seems to (may not always be the case) make their stereos with dual plugs in the rear, one in/out plug for amplified, and a matching one for non-amplified. I'm not sure if they're still doing that in your 3rd gen, or my 4th gen, but a quick look at the rear of the head unit should offer good clues.

This is our 2nd Highlander. I've always opted for the JBL system (because stock subwoofer). Our previous 2nd gen, the JBL system thumped pretty hard. In the 4th gen, it's good for low-end fill, but doesn't have the kick our 2nd gen JBL system had.

 

Curious about the Toyota 86 radio retrofit, so couple questions [things not so apparent fr/ur pics], if you dont mind:

1. Actual Display housing looks like it fits perfectly thru the HVAC cover bezel [looking at part online, noticed it has a rectangular black plate behind the display head. Does that get covered by the HVAC cover bezel ?

2. Looks like wire harness needs minor mods [thx @Shifty], butotherwise is your USB/Aux interface operational [and did it also require wire mod] ?

3. Otherwise is it all good w/SoundQuality, Settings Access, EQ Memory, BT, etc ?

4. Tundra oem amp By-passed?

Though im still aiming at Alpine ilx507, it seems to have near 10% not happy to truly pissed users....a bit worrisome for almost $700.
Understood that this Toyota 86 radio may not have all same features, but Toy usually has great QC on things like this before they build-into a million vehicles IE: at least what features Toy claims, usually work 100.
Thx for a reply.

 

still researching the Toyota PT546-00170 [2017-2019 Toyota 86] and the above "..little lacking in the low end.." are you referring to the Highlander JBL only, or the earlier topic 'PT546-00170'. According to its UM, pg 138 specs 16watt x 4 [cea2006] and max 49watt x 4, all 4ohm, but low freq limit 80hz., so not much more power than most aftemarkets under $5-6hundred.

 

Highlander JBL only, and only for the latest (4th) gen highlanders.

 

1. Correct, bezel fits great. Rectangular portion hidden behind.


2. I think either myself or Dan @empty_lord gave that info to @shifty`. I never hooked up the aux/usb or mic for handsfree calls. You have to buy the additional connectors/parts for that.

3. Yes, waaaaay better than the original radio and amp. I had non-jbl 6 speaker OEM setup.

4. Bypassed the amp.


In the settings I select 'iM' for the vehicle. Gave the best sound/power.

 

You gave it to me, and I appreciate it!

 

Want to thank everyone here for the info & pics on radio-media player options for our FGTs; definitely great forum support.
Still not sure how im gonna roll, but the Toyota 86/iM/Scion media headunit is looking better every day. Altho the ilx507 has waay more features, still trying to digest the thot of $700.
So, another few 'Toyota PT546-00170 headunit' questions:
I see no shortage of them via recyclers [flea-bay], but some are making a point of specifying: "..MAY NEED PROGRAMMING..".
So whats up w/that?
Is this something required based on original toyota vehicle install? IE: Features that cant be deployed b/c iM vs. 86 ?
Understood that theres a list of 'peripheral/harness' req'd to get these Toyota headunits to work in our FGTs, but which features, if any, will definetly NOT work in the 05-06 [w/out SWCs] FGTs ?

Please enlighten me. Thx.

 

Hey @G100 ...a couple years bk, but thanks for the excellent write-up on your Alpine W670. Im curious tho about your list of items used:
You used the Scosche trim ring [#?, but has the radiused Rt/Lt sides] in your pics and write-up, but your list says 'Returned'..?
Im just guessing, but by now the Big5 manufacturers must have a standard 'Nose piece' size, so it looks like the big difference is in the aftermarket trim ring outer dimension to fit into the dash hole.
Any comments appreciated. Nice looking end install, especially your use of a 3.5mm audio in jack; great info!

 

More info here, everything you need to know about trim kits: https://www.tundras.com/threads/radio-stereo-mounting-kits-for-later-model-gen1-trucks.110711/

It speaks a lot to the kits available, the pros/cons, etc., with legit input from a couple of owners.

EDIT: Just notice you replied in there too. About this same kit. DOH!

 

@Shifty ..., yes. Im losing track; its a sign.

Still screwing w/my speaker install. Decided to add a bit more killmat to back doors and then a 1/4" foam/mylar coated insulator sheet- supposedly sound insulation, but I think it will be minimal. I mentioned it waay bk here:
https://www.tundras.com/threads/all-gen-cab-noise-treatments-dynamat-kilmat-siless-etc.158825/
I'll update it later w/a few pics.

 

Hey, wanted to share some info on getting the factory USB and Aux to work with the GT86 radio. There are 2 ways that I know of:

1st way (Uses the PT546-00120-CH and PT546-00120-US conversion cables.)
finding a 2012 and newer scion at the junkyard and tracing and disassembling the center console till you get to the USB port. Depending on the location of the radio and the factory plug you can get varying lengths for the USB/Aux.




2nd way
I've seen are for 2015 and up Toyota cars and trucks. This one doesn't need the USB adapter as it will plug straight into the GT86 radio. This method can also be used if all you want is USB. (The cable is much shorter)



The connector that is also attached to the USB cable is for the AUX which if you strip back the 28 pin cable on the donor Toyota will make a short U-bend down toward the connector which I found was just a bit longer than the grey USB cable above.

This is what the connector looks like if you are trying to salvage it from a donor.



From what I've seen the USB/AUX jack has been unchanged from 2012 to 2019

 

Going to order the w670 for my 06, AC, premium non jbl sound. Anything I need to know before? I understand the metro dash kit will only be ears, and crutchfield will give me the amp bypass harness also. Should the install be pretty straightforward?

 

If you have the OEM non-JBL amp, and they're sending you the Metra harness ending in -8121, it'll be pretty straightforward. I'd probably tackle it like:

• Before starting, noting this only applies to the non-JBL 6-speaker "premium" audio system for later-year 1st Gen Tundras
  • Pull negative battery cable before you touch any wires
    
  • The amp bypass harness will plug into the larger of the two connectors at the amp, while I linked the DC Fujitsu amp, the AC Fujitsu amp will be similar
  • The -8121 bypass harness comes with two plugs, one is for speakers (purple/green/white/grey wires) which plugs to the amp, and the other plugs in the dash IIRC
  • I recommend to tape up (or sleeve) speaker harness, which again, is the connector with purple/green/white/grey wires (8 total), this will make install easier and protect them when routing to the front of the truck
• Again, with negative battery cable removed, open the center dash, if you need instructions, look at the Master Sheet Crutchfield emailed you after ordering
• Remove the OEM radio
• Follow accordingly, whether you have AC or DC:
  • AC:
    • Fold up the rear passenger seat, lift off the plastic amp cover, unplug the larger connector from the amp, plug in the Metra speaker side of the -8121 harness to it.
    • Unless you plan to route up thru the center console, remove the plastic sill covers in the doorways, and tuck the bypass harness wire bundle into the wiring channels under those covers, up to the passenger kick panel, over/around the glovebox/blower motor housing, securely
    • Pop the end of the wire harness out of the dash; you may need to trim the length, they give you way more than you need, I like to keep 6-8" cable able to easily reach outside the dash for easier terminations.
  • DC:
    • Remove the rear driver seat, pop off the rear cabwall plastic cover, unplug the larger connector from the amp, plug in the Metra speaker side of the -8121 harness to it.
    • Unless you plan to route up thru the center console, remove the plastic sill covers in the doorwasy, and tuck the bypass harness wire bundle into the wiring channels under those covers up to the driver kick panel, and over the steering column, making sure it won't get pinched by anything
      
    • Pop the end of the wire harness out of the dash; you may need to trim the length, they give you way more than you need, I like to keep 6-8" cable able to easily reach outside the dash for easier terminations.
• Plug the other harness from the -8121 kit onto the harness you pulled from the back of the radio
• Terminate your connections properly to the two ends of the -8121 harness, either using (A) solder and heat shrink, (B) butt splices, or (C) closed-end crimps, with a proper crimper, not the little shitty all-in-one garbage crimper. THERE IS NO OTHER ACCEPTABLE WAY TO TERMINATE WIRES.
• Tug test all of your crimps! This is a must, every install
• Uninstall the ears from the OEM radio; test fit onto the new radio; you may need to grind/file a few little nubs on the OEM brackets for clean fitment
• Install the ears onto the new radio, install the Metra ears (or other kit) onto the new radio
• Button everything up; install radio wiring, reinstall radio, plug all connectors onto the center dash and set it in place (don't secure it yet)
• Test radio function, if working, you know what to do.
• Note: If your radio comes with a GPS antenna, there's a convenient shelf up under the dash that was made for OEM GPS antenna; be sure to clean with rubbing alcohol thoroughly before sticking the GPS antenna to it; hold it down with firm pressure for 10-15 seconds for proper adhesion

That should get you most of the way there. If you're installing a backup camera in this process, check this reply for helpful tips on installation, everything you should need to know.

Also note, some head units have a parking brake lockout. There are things you can install (you should have them in-hand during the harness crimping process!!!) to bypass that, although I would, for legal and liability reasons, NEVER suggest someone do that, because doing so would create unnecessary distraction from the road.

If I missed any steps, LMK, I'll update this based on your input. I may link to it later.

One other note: You can continue using the OEM speakers; they're all 4-ohm. You don't get this luxury with the JBL systems.

 

Thanks shifty! Just to confirm, plug oem harness from old radio into 8121, then splice that into the new radio harness?

 

If I recall, the -8121 kit comes with two harnesses:

1. A "speaker extension" harness that plugs into the OEM amp harness end of things, so you can extend the speaker wires to the front of the truck
2. A power/etc. edapter that plugs into the OEM radio harness, which feeds power ground etc. to your new radio

I'd need to RTFM to confirm that's right, I'm going purely from memory on install.

 

Dropping this here for Double Cab owners. Tweeter install/retrofit using OEM brackets.

I met up with @Dakillacore today, we installed an Atoto A5 head unit, Master Tailgaters backup camera, fixed some speaker wiring issues in his DC with JBL system, and gutted some chunks of a Code Alarm CA1051 alarm system his previous owner installed.

Previous owner had updated all the drivers to newer JBL units, keeping the JBL amp, all were 2ohm drivers so it worked, minus the 4ohm tweeters we retrofitted. Bypass harness used, along with one of my wiring diagrams I threw together for other JBL owners. Front tweeters had a wicked crackle before we started. Possibly JBL amp was shorted, or previous owner did something wacky with wiring.

I wanted to highlight the tweeter install. JBL is awesome when it comes to this stuff, they typically give you three or four brackets (buckets, really) for the tweeters to sit in. All of JBL's tweeters on market in recent years either (A) have a center-threaded rear or (B) come with at least one bracket with a threaded post.

His was option (B), so we pulled the OEM tweeter bracket, remove its nut (I think it was 7mm?) and pulled off the OEM tweeter, which required cutting a small piece of heatshrink holding the OEM tweeter wire to the bracket.

Then we slid the JBL tweeter into its center-post cup, popped it into the OEM bracket, used the OEM bolt (it fit!) to tighten it down. Then, to avoid risk of breaking the solder joints on the tweeter, I used a zip tie to hold the JBL tweeter wire to the bracket, with a little slack for the wire.

Pics are worth a thousand words. two pics of the tweeter fab, and two of cabling. I didn't love the crossover setup, or how much friggin wire JBL put on them, but a little gorilla tape to hold the crossover to the door, then bundled and zip-tied them to the door. I should've TESA taped the loops after to avoid snags, but everything was really secure with no risk of smashing from nearby fasteners, nor anything in the door card pulling those out during removal. We were short on time, maybe next time, when we shore up the Atoto radio in the slot (their brackets are shit), finish the SWC setup, and sound deaden the doors. This setup sounded really damn good. Lots of low end! I was surprised, to say the least.

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Installed shots ... again, not the cleanest wire, but were in a hurry, will get Tesa'd later

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Thanks again for the help. It worked flawlessly on the way home without any issues. The sound quality is miles above what it was originally.

Setting up the ATOTO head units bluetooth and wireless carplay was a bit of a bitch and took far longer than it should have.....Who knew that the best place to go to connect a new device would be under the "phone" app and not the "bluetooth" app.

 

I'd definitely take a minute to perform a wireless update of the unit also, if not already done. I'm hopeful they release semi-often (quarterly or biannual) updates to AndroidOS and the apps on the unit.

I won't say I'm an Android-hater. It's an environment I generally understand the function of, I have two Android tablets sitting on my desk as I type this. But with my last employer being so heavily involved in the embedded world, and working in electronics where everything coming from China and uses a touchscreen uses Android OS as part of that job and my current business, the abuse/lack of concern for standards, lack of device security concerns, stability issues that usually stem from lack of testing or any UI/UX efforts on the part of the manufacturer, it drives me a little nuts. Still, and surprising as hell to me when you consider the tiny ass form factor of that unit, the sound was impressive.