What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Saw this online today

 

I don’t get it. Why advertise the vehicle you’re driving?

 

When I did the leather cards on my 04 DC, I followed the pattern Toyota chose by notching the corners. I had about an 1" of fabric bigger than the actual piece. Just be cautious your notch is not noticeable when you curl it over the edge and adhere it with the adhesive....if that makes sense.

 

Pretty sure he was trying to mimic the badges that would normally be there if his tailgate wasn't missing.

Humor.

 

It's like back in the 90s when it was popular to put the Honda windshield strip above the AS2 line on civics and such.

or as FGV suggested, humor

 

I've got some cheap Amazon 2 USB port deal in both my Lexus and the Tundra, this seems like a cleaner option and charges your phone quicker I'm sure.

You shouldn't need to use positaps or anything to give that circuit power. The original cigarette lighter ports use normal spade connectors already. If the ends are too close together for the big plastic surrounded spade connectors you can plug male spade ends into them and make a new cable.

 

Used similar tactic with the foams when I refurb'd my sports grille. Great to avoid bunching at the rounds.

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I'm gonna go out on a limb and say he used plastic welding with plates. Common technique used similarly for plastic bumpers. I don't recognize those specific weld plates, but this is the process, in a nutshell. It's truly the only way to properly mend plastics like that, and whoever executed that work did a fucking fabulous job, even if this isn't their approach.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tWLPKDK5Jlk​

 

Replaced those pesky peeling window trim pieces.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZZYWkSn-NyA

 

Yeah so, @shifty` nailed it. The metal pieces are melted into the plastic. Aluminum is definitely best, for its heat transfer properties. Meaning, you can hold a soldering iron to one spot and the entire piece heats pretty evenly. @shifty` The metal bits- i had made a custom grill with perforated aluminum sheeting that I’ve recently replaced, and since chopped up to repair broken plastic.
The fabric is called ‘headliner repair fabric’ and comes with foam backing attached. I was really impressed with the stuff I got from Scamazon, how capable it is to stretch and shrink it. (important to avoid wrinkling)
I used 3M 77 spray glue.
Tips? Use the old fabric as a template, but add an inch or so around the perimeter. Cuts easily with sharp scissors. I’d avoid spraying the entire pieces all at once. Spray half of both fabric and door card, wait a minute for them to tack up then slowly press on from one edge, making sure to get it into the deepest corners and that you maintain your 1” margin even as possible. This is not a repositionable type of installation so take your time. You get one shot. Once the whole face is glued, flip the card over and trim the perimeter of the fabric down to 1/2”, making a few cuts 1/4” into the corners. Spray the entire perimeter both fabric and card. (Be mindful of your overspray, you don’t want it ever touching the finished fabric) Wait a minute. Work the fabric tightly around the edge and press. I cut out the holes afterwards so there’s no chance of the location being ‘off’. Of course you’ll cut them with an extra 1/2” of fabric, spray with glue and wrap tight.
Most importantly; take your time, and don’t cut the fabric short.
wise man said, (and this is the same idea as vinyl wrapping); Stretch it where you can, so you can shrink it where you need to.

link to fabric:

$18 Auto Suede Headliner Fabric Material with Foam Backing, 36" L × 60" W Automotive Interior Roof Replacement Upholstery Fabric for Car Truck SUV RV Boat, Home Repair DIY

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DKT36NTM

 

Removed the old cracked radiator and replaced with new denso unit. FYI y’all, seems that all fgt denso radiators are equipped for at, if manual transmission just don’t hook up trans lines. Tried everything to get v6 manual radiator, but they come with the fittings installed, I just left the end covers on. I bought a coolant system tool to vac fill the system, works so much better than a funnel, plus if system holds vacuum then unlikely to leak. Happy Sunday everyone

 

Also reuse the radiator brackets that come from factory, connect radiator to vehicle. Super easy

 

After the radiator, got the bumper I built mounted to the 4runner. It’ll come off many times still before powder coating. The camera makes it look goofier than it may be.

 

Redo

 

Awesome dude, I love it. Super resourceful. That right there is a repair I'd honestly pay for.

 

The factory spades are two different sizes and housed in a 90-degree plug. While you can extract the spades from the plug, you'd have to cut one off and replace it with a larger spade for it to fit the Scosche port.

 

Awesome flatbed!

 

1. Fedex update: Coastal bumpers at the local FedEx center.
2. All 4 of my transmission to cross member bolts were not tight. Snugged them up...most remaining vibrations went away. Who knew???
3. Chop chop no rub....yellow for flair.

 

Like you, found swapping on the original mounting brackets to the new radiator aligns the bolt holes on the front apron. Have done this with Denso and other. Didn't you have to mod the rad mount to connect the bracket though?

https://www.tacomaworld.com/posts/29990439

 

Made it home. Trucks zero issues… and now the mr2 has been partially assembled up front… I have twins now

 

Is the race taco still on the back burner?

 

Where’s my ‘shifty approves’ decal?

really tho, that means a lot coming from you bud.

 

I got you fam. Remind me at T2S.

 

I remember the shock towers were a little rough on the other; how are they on the new TX MR?

Given the lacking interior, I'd be really tempted to roll cage the new roller.

 

No, the brackets that came on the denso didn’t allow the fasteners to line up for mounting. Removed the denso brackets and installed the factory brackets, then all the holes for fasteners aligned and everything worked perfectly from there. Just 4 bolts, no mods.

 

Dropped my truck off at another transmission shop today, this one in Milwaukee where I go to school. I feel a lot better about this place than the previous shop, the guys there sat down and talked to me about the truck for 15 minutes and agreed with me that my symptoms were odd/uncommon. They rebuild A340s all the time, but always because of a bad OD planetary or fried clutches. They said that no lockup due to a worn stator bushing is uncommon.

I told them to take their time with the diag, I'd rather spend a bit more and really nail down the problem then just rebuild it.

 

Finally re-aimed my colight projectors. The cutoff line wasn’t parallel and the headlight housings were aimed waaaaaay down in order to have appropriate height down road. I added some plastic ends off of some butt connectors to the bottom two tabs on each light to make them angle down in the housing. Then loosened the set screw on the light to re-aim to parallel and match steps between the two. I was then able to crank the housings back up to a more normal profile. Yay.

 

I was hoping that someone would do something like this at some point. Glad it's confirmed to be possible. I didn't need to angle my housings much as my springs are so worn out. Once I get new ones I'll have to do something like that.

 

I work on it when I have parts. That one’s just constantly a waiting game because everything’s custom

 

The roller is getting a full interior and done up pretty when the other parts car is here