AES Intake Manifold Runner Kit (3UR-FE 5.7L)

So I wanted to wait a little bit before I made a formal review thread for the AES Intake Manifold Runner Kit for the 5.7L V8. For reference, my truck is a 2016 1794 4x4 with some performance mods already installed. Some performance mods already include:

• DAP Tune
• Modded TRD Exhaust w/ H-Pipe and Dual Helmholtz Resonators
• ARH 1-3/4" Long Tube Headers w/ 3" Catted Midpipes
• TRD Intake
• Gigs Performance Ported Throttle Body

All in all, these above mods made for a fun, good, well-rounded daily driver. The exhaust was tame at idle and around city driving, but sounded wild at full throttle. No performance issues whatsoever for a naturally-aspired build - or at least so I thought.

I read up on some reviews of the AES intake manifold kits used on some of the 3.5L V6 Tacoma builds, saying how it helped when going to larger tires and helping to build low-end torque. The more I started thinking about it, I did notice that when I put the long tube headers on, I did lose some low-end torque - hence the need to add a custom H-pipe to help with scavenging and reduce some weird resonance with the long tubes at around 1900 RPM (the Helmholtz resonators helped with drone at around 1600-1800 RPM cruising around 60-70 MPH. So whenever AES announced the open pre-order for the 5.7L kit, I decided to try it out - figured it couldn't hurt so why not?

So full disclosure, these aren't actually pictures of the parts I received... I was too pumped to get them on the truck, I completely forgot - whoops. But, the kit is exactly as pictured - came with (2) manifold spacers machined out of billet aluminum, (2) new intake manifold gaskets, and (10) associated longer bolts along with flat and lock washers. Really, no complaints with the quality of the parts - fitment was great. The only thing to note was the lack of installation instructions - but luckily, install was not too difficult (if you can change spark plugs, you can do this).


I'll outline some steps for the install as I remember, but again, use this as a guide at your own risk.

NOTE: I did not disconnect the battery before attempting installation, but this would be a good first step. And also make sure the area is CLEAN. Might as well install the included gaskets into the manifold spacers as well at this time before starting disassembly.

1. Remove engine cover and set aside.
2. Disassemble and remove intake air box and tube from throttle body (disconnect MAF sensor, PCV hose, and vacuum hose).
3. Disconnect electrical connector from throttle body.
4. Disconnect brake booster line at back of intake manifold.
5. Disconnect PCV vent hoses leading to each valve cover.
6. Disconnect two electrical connectors and hose from driver's side of intake manifold.
7. Remove (8) bolts and (2) nuts securing down the intake manifold (at this point, be careful to not drop anything into the exposed ports.
8. Remove (1) 10mm bolt holding the wiring loom to the intake manifold located at the back of the passenger side.
9. Remove PCV hose located at the front of the intake manifold (I have a Radium catch can system installed, but principle should be the same for stock).
10. At this point, the intake manifold should be able to be lifted up from the front.
11. I did not obligate to completely remove the intake manifold in order to install the manifold spacers. If you do decide to remove the intake manifold, there are an additional 2 clips at the very back that hold onto the wiring loom (major PITA to remove these). It is not necessary to remove the intake manifold from what I've seen.
12. Lifting the intake manifold up in the front, slide in each bank's manifold spacer (these only go in one way, so make sure everything lines up correctly). There are two studs at the front of the intake manifold that helped secure the intake manifold down - I used these to line up the manifold spacers (NOTE: these are too short and will need to be removed).
13. After both sides are lined up front-to-back and side-to-side, lift up one bank's manifold spacer at a time to remove the aforementioned stud. I used a set of channel-locks to break them loose and a 6mm socket to turn them all the way out.
14. After stud removal, line everything back up and use the included hardware to bolt the intake manifold down, making sure the spacers are correctly lined up with all the ports.
15. Torque everything down and reconnect everything else, and you're done!

I attached the finished pictures below, but honestly, you can't really tell there's anything there unless someone told you where to look. Very inconspicuous and low-key.







So as of the time of this post, I've put a little over 100 miles in mostly city driving, probably 90%/10% split with highway. One thing that was apparent almost immediately was the low-end torque. I think the best way to describe the change is smooth and effortless. I'm not saying I gained a ton of power like I did with the long tube headers or like I would with forced induction. But, it takes noticeably less RPM to get up to speed from a stop than I had to before the install. Before, I'd say to get onto an uphill on-ramp and get up to 75MPH to merge, I'd probably put my foot in the throttle all the way up the ramp (probably about 1/4 mile length) and RPM's would hit around 5500-5600 RPM, and I would hit around 80 MPH before I had to merge in. Now, to get up the same uphill on-ramp, if I put my foot into it and stay on it, I'm touching 90 MPH before the merge (RPM's staying the same). If I ease up to hit 75 MPH in roughly the same spot, my RPM's only hit around 4200 RPM or so.

I know this isn't exactly the most scientific test, but I will say I'm impressed. I will also add that this was a mod that I could definitely tell did something, butt dyno and all. The mods that I personally felt made a difference were the long tube headers and now these manifold spacers. I would definitely recommend these to anyone searching for more power, specifically low-end for scooting around town or towing. The high-end power is still there, but this helps the low-end tremendously - I love not having to use as much throttle as I used to have to in order to get up to speed.

Also, for what it's worth, I haven't noticed any change to MPG quite yet, but probably too soon to tell.

Only con, it did seem to quiet down my exhaust note (just ever so slightly). The tone is still there, just quieter in the cabin if that makes sense.

https://www.aesinnovate.com/product-page/3ur-runner-kits-v8-5-7l

 

Nice write up, I was wondering about these. The Tacoma guys swear by them, I guess I have to add these to my list!

 

I was pleasantly surprised with the results for sure. If anyone else is interested, use code “2024EOY” for a promo code.

 

Shame the 4.7 2UZ kits aren't available rn

 

Someone should dyno these.

 

They already have. It’s on their website

 

https://www.aesinnovate.com/product-page/3ur-runner-kits-v8-5-7l

Maybe I missed it?

 

Here we go again

 

I couldn’t find it either

 

It’s one of the only kits that doesn’t have dyno results . The other kits are hovering around 7-8% increase in peak Low end torque.

 

UPDATE: so I've been able to put about another 250 miles on the truck after I installed the manifold spacers - this time 100% interstate driving (wide open, cruising, and creeping in traffic). I noticed the truck had to do some adjusting to the mods at first, especially at wide open throttle (this probably took about 20 or so miles at speed, accelerating and cruising variably). The best way I can describe it is like the truck didn't know how to respond at first (held the gear vs downshift, vice versa, etc).

After cruising for a while, it seemed like it found where it was happy at - and it's fantastic. Accelerating to pass slower traffic is almost effortless because the truck doesn't need to downshift as much due to the added low-end. Creeping along in traffic was great too (besides the being stuck part of course) - speeding up afterwards was quick and painless, no drama at all.

Honestly, I wish these existed sooner - this is one mod that I can definitely tell a difference without me trying to justify the purchase to myself...well maybe a little bit. Seriously, I'm quite pleased and definitely recommend this mod!

 

Added to the list of shit to buy. Might dyno it myself if I get the time.

 

And there's one on a supercharged engine too.

 

UPDATE: so got about another 1000 miles or so since the manifold spacers now - also upsized wheels and tires from 275/60R20 (33") to 295/70R18 (34"). Never unplugged the battery for the truck to reset its parameters, so it took a bit for it to get accustomed to the new rolling diameter - also installed a Rough Country speedometer recalibrator to get everything back in spec for the transmission.

Overall, I feel like the truck drives like it did before with the 33" tires and no manifold spacers - now has 34" tires with the manifold spacers. There is noticeably more low-end torque to help get the bigger tires going and doesn't really feel that much different than before. I was on the fence about a potential regear, but I may forego that for now. Would totally recommend this mod

 

Wait. I thought this device only modifies the ODO/Speed?

 

It does, but it also fixed some of the odd shifting from the transmission due to the speed difference. When I put the 34’s on, at certain speeds, the truck would somewhat hesitate and not know exactly what gear to be in (upshifting or downshifting sporadically). This fixed that issue as well as the speed accuracy.

 

Glad it is working so well for you.

I am skeptical it does anything for the transmission shifting since the device only intercepts signals going to the ODO/Speed and the dash isn't transmitting speed data.

None of the signals going to the ECU or transmission from the wheel sensors are intercepted with this device.

https://s3.amazonaws.com/roughcountry/install/919001700.pdf

 

I was skeptical as well when I first put the tires on - but I figured I could buy it on Amazon with a hassle-free return if I didn’t think it was worth it. Ended up keeping it since it made the truck drive and shift like it did before.

 

Any input on using these with headers and a BD "trail tune"? I plan to remove my DAP tune soon and switch back to a BD tuner I have from my last truck so that I can go back to 87 instead of 91 as well as have more conservative throttle mapping.

 

I do not, I have these installed along with ARH headers and DAP tune. FWIW, I liked the combination before I put the bigger tires on. Now, it’s more or less like stock-ish.

 

I know the trail tune was supposed to help with long tubes and keep from running lean. The trail tune is in the 11's for afr it'll use more fuel. Don't see how the runner would interfere with BD.

 

Honestly, if I were to tackle this job, I'd put on new headers lol taking them off ain't fun.

 

So on the hunt for a picture of the PCV location, I stumbled upon this thread. Anyone else try these yet?

 

https://www.tundras.com/threads/general-supercharger-thread.85513/page-631#post-3756876

 

I was hoping so too, I want to know if there’s really a $400 worth of difference lol.

 

PCV on my 2018 is to the right of the TB. Remove the foam insulation, and there’s a hose going to it behind where the TB is.