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Secondary Air Pump?

Discussion in '1st Gen Tundras (2000-2006)' started by soup-n-sandwich, Mar 4, 2025.

  1. Mar 4, 2025 at 6:36 PM
    #1
    soup-n-sandwich

    soup-n-sandwich [OP] New Member

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    Hi guys,
    I'm very green here...not really a "car" guy but I have a possibility to purchase a 2005 SR5 Tundra with the access cab. The frame has been replace by Toyota and I would be purchasing it from a VERY close friend that owns a used vehicle dealership...so I know the vehicle would be sound if they say it is.
    I was talking to my friend about the truck. He was looking into the Secondary Air Pump. I understand there is a bypass kit for this but my question to you guys is...is this a Toyota kit and if so will the vehicle still pass inspection with this kit?
    If there anything else I should know about this non-working Secondary Air Pump?
    Thank you again guys for your time and efforts on this.
    Chris
     
  2. Mar 4, 2025 at 6:43 PM
    #2
    455h0le_dachshund

    455h0le_dachshund Tesler Thought Experiment

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    Reverend Hotdog
    TX...big surprise
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    There are a few kits available, from a few manufacturers. None of which are Toyota. There's Slyfox, Hewitt, and at least one more that I can't think of.
    I have the Hewitt plug n play bypass on my 06. Its $155 and my truck still passes emissions inspections every year without any issues. Takes maybe 20-30 minutes to install. I highly recommend it. Been using mine for like 3 or 4 years now without issue.

    https://hewitt-tech.com/product/sec...7ha1/?sy=2006&sm=Toyota&smodel=Tundra&se=4.7L
     
  3. Mar 4, 2025 at 6:47 PM
    #3
    Fragman

    Fragman New Member

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    It is absolutely NOT a Toyota kit. Passing inspection would depend on the state you live in. Do you know it actually doesn't work? I have a 2006 DC and mine works fine. If it did not, I'm not worried. I'd install the bypass. Even without it, most of Texas no longer has emission inspections, and if it does (like my county), I'm allowed one 'Not Ready' and can still pass. And EVEN if then, the bypass should, well , bypass that one and show it as ready.
     
    455h0le_dachshund likes this.
  4. Mar 4, 2025 at 6:50 PM
    #4
    Fragman

    Fragman New Member

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    In other words, read the mega thread. If after reading that, doing the recommended checks, the truck looks good and you do not routinely transport people in the back seat (DC would be better for that), BUY IT!
     
  5. Mar 4, 2025 at 6:50 PM
    #5
    455h0le_dachshund

    455h0le_dachshund Tesler Thought Experiment

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    Yeah I'm in Houston so I too have the dumb emissions inspections. I don't have any monitors "not ready" or any CEL with my Hewitt. My SAIS was functioning fine, I just bypassed it so I could run the old style JBA long tube headers. The VVTI versions were more expensive. Plus that dentist drill noise on cold starts was annoying :D
    I didn't even have to install the block off plates, because the headers covered the ports from the block, and I installed a full Dirty Deeds exhaust.
     
    Fragman[QUOTED] likes this.
  6. Mar 4, 2025 at 7:00 PM
    #6
    shifty`

    shifty` Just like witches at black masses

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    The fact the truck has had the frame replaced means it was rotten. If the frame was rotten, the body is rotten.

    @soup-n-sandwich I see a handful of red flags in your post here. I would recommend you turn tail and run. Your friend may know used cars. He probably doesn't know used Tundras and what you're up against on this one.

    Doesn't matter if you can pass inspection with the bypass or not. That's the least of your worries if you get this truck.

    Read our collective community knowledge before you think about buying a 1st gen. There is a LOT you need to know: https://www.tundras.com/threads/so-you-wanna-buy-just-bought-a-1st-gen-tundra-eh.115928/

    In general though, unless you're getting a kickass deal, like the truck has under 150k miles, it's 4WD, highly optioned, and less than $5k, given what we've heard so far, look elsewhere dude.

    Also, reconsider whether that "friend" is really your friend or not. This sounds like the kinda deal that'll ruin a friendship.
     
  7. Mar 4, 2025 at 7:05 PM
    #7
    soup-n-sandwich

    soup-n-sandwich [OP] New Member

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    Thank you guys! Wow that was fast. I'm in Rhode Island. I'll have him read this post and I'll check out the Mega Post here on the forum. I must have not gotten to the part in the Mega post that refers to the secondary air pump. I'll check it out.\
    Thanks guys.
    C
     
  8. Mar 4, 2025 at 7:15 PM
    #8
    shifty`

    shifty` Just like witches at black masses

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    (see signature for truck info)
    There's a bunch of threads on the SAI system on this forum. That big ass megathread has links to the important ones in the "Drivetrains available and other related info (including 4WD debugging):" section

    There's not a lot you want to skip over in that megathread.

    That said, you need to understand something about the SAI system. It's not just a pump under the intake. There are valves on the back of the top-end of the engine. There are two solenoids that control those valves over the passenger side valve cover. There are vacuum hoses between those solenoids and the valves I just mentioned. There is even a known problem (TSB) where these trucks throw SAI codes (P2445, I think) due to cold weather, even when the pump is fine.

    All that to say: Imagine how stupid you'd feel if you spent money and time to install SAI bypass, only to find you had a vacuum tube loose on one of the two solenoids, and the code was "stuck valve", and all you needed to do was replace a 50¢ piece of rubber tube. Before you start talking about bypassing stuff, cough up the code. It may be cheaper to fix the problem than it is to buy a kit.

    It's extremely difficult to find legitimately rust-free trucks in the NE USA. We've seen trucks with replaced frames that are rotted less than half a dozen years later because they didn't get retreated. We see replaced frames week in and week out with rotten bed supports, rotten cab mounts, and all the other stuff Toyota won't replace with the frame. You'll be fighting with every fastener with everything you do, if it wasn't attached to the frame. Unless it's a cheap buy in a very low price range, years on this forum has taught me: DON'T DO IT. YOU WILL REGRET IT.

    We see too much pain and suffering on here year in and year out.
     
  9. Mar 4, 2025 at 7:37 PM
    #9
    soup-n-sandwich

    soup-n-sandwich [OP] New Member

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    Thank you very much Shifty. I'm passing this all to my friend. He doesn't take this stuff lightly and I also sent your last post directly to him by email and linked him to this post to make sure he's aware of everything that all of you said.
    One of the more minor things that grabbed my attention is the fact that the wiring insulation and lots of the plastics are soy based. This truck would be parked outdoors...not good.

    Thank you very much for your efforts and time on all of this.
    C
     
    Last edited: Mar 4, 2025
  10. Mar 4, 2025 at 8:11 PM
    #10
    shifty`

    shifty` Just like witches at black masses

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    (see signature for truck info)
    The rodent issues are real! We have ample pics with proof here.
     
  11. Mar 19, 2025 at 6:48 AM
    #11
    soup-n-sandwich

    soup-n-sandwich [OP] New Member

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    Oh yeah. I know as I too have had issues with mice in the past. It seems like they only bother with vehicles that use soy based wiring insulation and plastics. I have found that ultrasonic emitters really helps with this problem. https://mouseblocker.com/#products
     

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