OEM RADIO WIRING HARNESS [Toyota Tunda 2006 Access cab Sr5]

Hope y'all are doing well today. I been trying to were can I find the wiring harness or male plugs for the OEM radio for my Toyota Tunda 2006 Access cab Sr5. I want to return it back to stuck it used to have and aftermarket radio but the privies owner splice the cables. So I'm looking for them. I look up my Vin on the Toyota website and its said it "AM/FM/CD w/4 Speakers" radio but not much more information. I attach some pics of whats left of the wiring harness.




Thank you in advance!!

 

Best option, honestly, is to crimp new terminals onto each wire, then de-pin/re-pin into the original harness.

You should be able to buy the correct crimper and a whole gaggle of pins on scAmazon for less than $50. Although I'm not sure which pins to use; I'd normally ask @daveeasa that kind of thing.

 

Thank you!!!!!! did not think of that!! lol T-T. would you know witch radio corresponds to does connectors is it 86120-0C140 or 86120-0C100 I'm still confused honestly.

 

It's a good question. But we don't determine which radio based on the connectors. There are three types of stereo systems in our trucks: (1) Without OEM amp, (2) With OEM Fujitsu amp, and (3) With OEM JBL amp. And if the previous owner did something really fucking stupid like cut the factory harnesses, you need to find out for us: Which system do you have?

Everything you need to know about stereos in our trucks is in the "Audio, audio upgrades and cameras..." section of THIS THREAD. After you read these bullet points from that thread, tell us if (A) your previous owner left the amp wired and in-place, (B) which amp is installed (JBL or Fujitsu), if you find it's still there:

• I'll say this first: DON'T BE A FRIGGIN' DOUCHE! Don't be that asshole who cuts the factory wiring harnesses to install a new stereo. There are a ton of cheap plug-and-play adapter harnesses you can buy. Pony up the extra $10-20 for a quality adapter harness and don't cut your factory wiring.
• Use proper wiring. Either butt splice, crimp, or solder. Don't use wire nuts, electrical tape, scotchloks, quicktaps, and other BS, they're garbage. If you must tap a circuit, use Posi-Taps to avoid damaging wire sheaths.
• These trucks were fairly well-equipped for the era with three basic radio setups: (1) A JBL radio with external JBL amplifier, (2) a "premium" radio with external OEM amplifier, or (3) a standard radio with no amplifier. If you have the JBL radio, it should have the JBL logo silkscreened onto the radio's face and amp, JBL brands everything with their logo.
• Before you install an aftermarket head unit, you must identify whether your truck has an OEM amplifier, b/c you'll need to adapt or bypass it to avoid issues! Read this thread for info on factory amp location(s) and how to bypass it for aftermarket stereos. There are ways to retain the factory amp if you really want to, but ... go read that thread for why it's not ideal. To see what adapters you need (if you have an amp) check this post. Foor 2003+ drivers, you need a dash trim kit, there are options! To see what aftermarket radio other members used, read this thread. DISCLAIMER: Confirm fitment of any part numbers provided here by going to Crutchfield's or Metra's website before you commit to buy!
• If you're looking to stuff a sub in the rear of your truck ... RC trucks, you'll need to use a wedge box behind the seat (link), or an under-seat shallow sub. AC trucks, Q-Logic makes a dual 8" box that goes under the rear passenger seat (info). DC trucks, storage cubbies below rear seats can be used (link, more here). JL has a stealbox that stuffs in the center console for trucks w/captains chairs.
• For AC owners, your rear doors have ample room for a 6x9" speaker, if that's your desire. As someone who worked in the industry, I'd take a 6x9" over a 6" component any day, I've seen guys do some pretty amazing stuff w/6x9s.
• Steering wheel controls and adaptation... To answer all your Q's, check this thread!
• For AC/RC trucks, the metal bracket used for the door tweeters can be repurposed to install any number of aftermarket components, example here.
• Consider buying through Crutchfield, not only for the incredible technical support, but they ensure you'll have all the wiring adapters and install accessories you need to for the most-plug-and-play experience possible. Free phone support from audio enthusiasts. Don't hesitate to call and talk to a technical salesperson to lay out your system before buying! It's also free, and they're super knowledgeable, they'll guide you in the right direction. To boot, their pricing is inexpensive - doesn't always beat scAmazon, but you're guaranteed to get non-counterfeit, non-grey market stuff with full, no-hassle extended warranty and support, which Amazon can't offer.
• For an example camera install using an aftermarket head unit, check this post.

 

As shifty alluded to, 3 radio choices for 06 AC SR5....Audio System w/separate amp, Audio System w/built-in amp and a Audio System w/Navigation.

• W/separate amp can be eliminated because it did not use 20 pin connectors
• W/built-in amp used 2 connectors(R12/R13)....both 20 pin connectors
• W/Navigation used 3 connectors(R24,R25,R26)....1st 2 are 20 pin connectors, R26 is the grey 5 pin connector you're showing with those 2 used conductors for Reverse and Speed inputs tp NAV radio.

All that to say, there should be another 20 pin you're not showing but regardless, the W/built-amp and W/NAV both used the same part # connectors if you choose to buy new connectors and pins.

Perhaps @daveeasa can help with pins. In the mean time, I'll look in the 05 Wire Harness Repair Manual pdf for type pins for the 20 pin connectors.



EDIT....the pins you need for the 2 - 20 pin connectors if you choose to re-pin....

 

Hey guys I recently bought a first gen Tundra and the previous owner was definitely a douche .
I just finished rewiring a 6 pin connector for my ETCS I got a code for P1127 I assume due to incorrect hood release cable installation (grommet was moved out of the way so cable can go through that hole in firewall, aswell as a fender bolt that wasn’t in making water seep into the cab when it rained corroding said connector).

But that’s outside of todays point, they installed a pioneer head unit but completely slaughtered the wiring… I will attach pictures of the amplifier wiring that was left just as pictured for me to find, the factory radio harness doesn’t exist as they cut it and put butt connectors directly to the pioneer harness. Hopefully someone can help me find the factory radio harness ( as if I’m going to factory radio) so I can buy the correct metra adapters and do it correctly.

 

I see the factory amp in the back of that pic.

Normal config for your truck year/cab is for the OEM radio wiring to go into the amp, then out of the back of that up to the factory radio.

Given I clearly see the silver fins of the amp in the back of your picture, it suggests the amp is still there. Which means there's a stark chance that - and if you'd checked out the 'Audio, audio upgrades and cameras...' help section of this thread, you may've known this - that your OEM wiring is still intact, and the asshole previous owner only hacked up the feed from the amp to the head unit.

If the OEM (important pieces) of the harness are still intact, you'll find these plugged into the bottom of your OEM amp I see in your picture, the left is mostly power/illum leads and the right is primarily speaker leads IIRC:

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In case it's not clear, this is your full amp on the earlier models, notice the wires I just showed you at the bottom of it? That's what the Metra harness ties into. (more words after this pic)

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Notice that black bundle coming out of the top of the amp in that pic? I believe that's what your dumbfuck of a previous owner hacked into. Which, if so, you're a lucky SOB. And if not, your best bet is hitting a junkyard to cut a harness from similar cab/year truck. You may get lucky with a '00-02 and find what you need.

But contrast on your pic is bad, so I can't tell if that bundle of black is coming up from under or above the OEM amp. Fingers crossed it's the latter.

 

@Flvcko any update here?

 

@shifty` i haven’t been home this week I get back this Monday coming up so im gonna take it back apart and I’ll send more pictures of what I have back there and what I can still find on the truck but I honestly think I am going to have to go to a junkyard and chop the oem harness off a truck to get mine back

 

Right on, I saw this auction today and thought about you. It shows a good example of what the OEM radio + amp setup looked like in your truck.

Basically, two input harnesses COME from the speakers and the fusebox (connectos are seen above) plug in at this input - those are the connectors Metra usually plugs into - and from there, a pigtail of wires (which I hope is what your PO actually cut) go up to the back of the radio:

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Here's a shot from behind - again, the general hope is, your PO hacked that black throwaway wire bundle coming out of the amp, and you don't need to junkyard anything... just delete the amp, and use those the amp input plugs to link up with any aftermarket adapter harness you choose.

I have my doubts just because I see red/white/green wires wrecked in your image, which are to your speakers, but maybe you'll get lucky and they only cut the smaller of the two plugs. I'll never understand why assholes cut up factory harnesses. Last adapter harness I bought was $8.

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