What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Nicee, thats a great looking truck

 

What does that do?

 

I don't have receipts for everything but I write it all down in a logbook that I keep in every car we have. Date, mileage, what was done by whom and at what price.

 

I do the same thing!

 

That's the perk of working in a shop. I can keep electronic records (repair orders) of mine and they automatically upload to carfax

 

Since Tundra was gonna be at paint shop for a week painting roof and ARE tonneau cover, chose to remove tailgate. While off, did some lubricating and replacing worn out parts.

These are the cats meow from Ryan Miller at b40built



https://b40built.com/collections/tailgate-kits

 

I also hear they are the bees knees. I do want to order a set one day.

 

NICE! Congratulations. I also flew to Boise to buy my Tundra, almost a year ago.

 

Heard a little clunk 2 days ago.... found it All my fault, must not have tightened it when I did the shock a while back duh.
Thankful that's all it was.
Toyota: Didn't have them(could order)/couldn't come up with an alternative/Couldn't even tell me the size-grade-or length, Totally useless.
Picked up at TSC, grade 8 m12x1.75x80, Nylocks, RED locktite. Good enough for now.

Honorable mention to @The Black Mamba for an assist/info on hardware, thx buddy

Everything slathered in oil... it's a MI thing. Did both of them

 

Thankfully they didn’t freeze to the bushings instead like mine. Had to take one of mine out with a whizzer rotary cutoff tool.

 

I was right about the JBL sticker but there is no 2ohms on the label.

 

Weird, I swore those bastards had foam surrounds, and that's what disintegrated.

 

My understanding is that it powers the bypass so that the the SAIS will never activate even when power is turned to accessory and there is a delayed start to the motor. I thought I could skip it but then I heard the SAIS blower recently. I don't recall if I did anything unusual on that start.

Here is the explanation from Hewitt Tech:
https://hewitt-tech.com/product/secondary-air-injection-system-bypass-kit-gen-1-v36h/

 

Ahh ok. So this is to bypass having to replace the part. Its to correct the issue easier when there is a loud "whine/whistle" when the vehicle is first started.

 

I removed the passenger side front sway bar end link and the clunk is gone. Hmmm. The shorter S-Runner end links I installed last week exacerbated the clunk. So I'll drive it with one short and one missing for a few days and figure out if I even want to put the normal length end links back on or not. Might just ditch the front sway bar all together. It's got the rear TRD sway bar a lower center of gravity already so... Do I even need the front one? Didn't feel too lose. With out the passenger link. I'll drive it a few more days and go from there.

 

The original JBL speakers I replaced only had 1/2” wide foam on very outer edge for cushioning. The rest was semi-thick paper which I had fixed about 10 yrs ago with the Simply Speaker kit.

 

Not all today, but I replaced my carrier bearing. It appears I got confused and replaced it with the 2WD part instead of the 4WD one. So I'll probably be doing it again sooner than I want. Luckily it was pretty quick. Oddly, it didn't have arrows indicating a direction. Maybe the 2WD one doesn't matter?







My old one wasn't terrible but somehow had a rock lodged in it.





I also managed to get the adjusters on my fogs swapped so now I can aim them and stop blinding people. I haven't used them because of that and I want to be nice to people.

I also swapped out and rebuilt my CV axles. Both had boots that were about to tear and I had an opportunity to do it. I'll rebuild my spare with the porsche boot mod and wait until I have to replace them again. Should be good for at least a couple years.
I'm wondering do these CV angles look too extreme? Since I raised the front end a bit the ride has been a bit harsher and I'm wondering if I lifted it too much?

 

Is there a difference? Yours looks like mine.
Mine have locating ‘fingers’, but other than that, looks identical to both those.

 

The difference is whether or not it has the “seal” for the 4wd model or unsealed for 2wd models. Otherwise they seem to be the same bearing.

 

Rode with the rollback guy down to the dealership.

Once there, realized I needed the title and bill of sale to get new keys. I don't (yet) have it registered so no registration.

 

Yeah, after "Gone in 60 seconds" they don't just give out keys to anyone

 

This -

 

Definitely noticing some body roll when I take turns at speed, but now it actually flexes when turning up the ramp to work.
I think that was the issue honestly. It just didn't like anything but flat land, because no up travel and dual sway bars. That's my theory.

Feels like a stadium truck now

 

That's what I heard too, I couldn't tell you what that seal looks like. I know I ran the 2wd one on my 4x4 before. I don't know which one I have on it now. But I got a spare somewhere.

 

This white insert, this is the seal

 

I finally got a round tuit.
It was surprisingly easy to swap out shocks, I think having new lower bushings made this job a breeze


Previous UCA angle

 

Did you get your Kings rebuilt or go to a heavier spring rate? Both?
I just noticed the Billies. I guess those were temporary.


Ooh you welded in the new tabs too. I bought em just in case (because Black Friday), but don't think I'll use em. Once I get it dialed in, I might have Frank tac weld the plates in place.
I see you have the fronts slightly out. How's the rears look?
I plan to leave my fronts down (neutral) and set the rears all the way out this weekend. Right now my fronts and rears are all neutral, because I didn't know what to set em at. We just followed Timmy the tool man. But I don't think he always knows what's best. KPO told me to do neutral front, all the way out rear, for max caster.

Edit I just realized you also have the SPC UCAs... We're gonna be twinsies.
Do you recall what setting you have your SPC caster to? Looks like G maybe? Mine are at F now and I was considering going to G.

 

Look at the bright side. It could have been a lot worse. The rodent family moved out of this 100 before I bought it. The starter never completely stopped working.



Ground all of the rust out with a Dremel tool.



Dissolved all of the rust with phosphoric acid. Then painted the valley with Rust Bullet.



Cleaned it all up and refreshed the fuel system.

 

I kinda think i might wanna polish this turd. 10.5ish lbs isnt worth the squeeze. So i get one of those 7” polishers and throw 30 hours at the intake, valvecovers, maybe calipers. Maybe my patricks once those polishing wheels burn down to a reasonable size. Would be quicker than booking a plater or powdercoater.

Plating is interesting, like i think i might have enough copper to plate the intake manifold. I’d mask off the bottom inch of the ports & do my best to dimple it like a golfball. Wonder if some fettling beforehand to smooth casting flash would help. Anywho, since i’ve only got a month, i’ll probably do the bear necessities. This run through will be a practice run to plan my hidden fogger.