Popped Wheel Cylinder--Bleed Question

I finally swapped out 1 of the 2 incredibly seized up, rotted, rusted, bell cranks this weekend. However, in the process of doing so, I popped a wheel cylinder (passenger side) and it started squirting brake fluid. It was also rusted to hell and could have been rotted and failing anyway.

Do I need to do a full bleed of the whole system after I put in a new cylinder, or do I just need to bleed the rear passenger where the new cylinder is? (1st time doing a brake bleed and will likely do it solo)

 

Both rear wheel cylinders, at minimum.

Probably wouldn’t hurt to bleed front as well if its been a while. New, clean fluid is better.

 

Bleed them all. Bleeding brakes is not that hard folks. Takes me 20 minutes to hit all 5 bleeders in order during a tire rotation. Fresh brake fluid rules. Old brake fluid drools.

 

Aisin is OEM for the wheel cylinders. This is your part for 2002 Tundra: WCT-068

 

Got my wheel cylinders in and plan on installing and bleeding this weekend. I was originally going to just do the old 2 person bleed method by either pressing half way or putting a board under the pedal, but saw your post

The biggest mistake people make with these trucks, other than improperly adjusting the rears - which is often a major source of braking issues and shitty pedal feel - is trying to 'classic' bleed these trucks, i.e. pumping the pedal. They push all the way to the floor and blow out seals, or don't get air out.​

Ideal way to bleed these truck is using positive pressure at the MC reservoir. 2nd best way to bleed is hand vacuum at the bleeder.

It is highly likely you still have air somewhere in the system. If so, you're not going to get it out using old school pedal bleeding. If you were able, I'd be shocked.

Do you mind please explaining the positive pressure at master cylinder method? I'd rather give this a go if it is the ideal way.

 

$46 BreeRainz 3L Brake Bleeder Kit, Manual Brake Bleeder Fluid Pump with 4 Master Cylinder Adapters and 1L Brake Bleeder Bottle Suitable for Most Vehicles

https://www.amazon.com/BreeRainz-Cy...=&hvlocphy=9030104&hvtargid=pla-2281435179818
It's pretty self explanatory once you have the right tool for the job. Pressurize the system and open bleeders 1 at a time starting farthest away from master and working your way to the closest. Passenger rear/ driver rear/front passenger/ front driver.

 

2 man method is fine and doesn't involve any extra equipment, other than your board under the brake pedal. Just don't send the pedal to the floor.

 

Just make sure it has adapter good for Toyota. If not:

https://asttool.com/detail_page.php?tool_number=TOY18B

https://speedibleed.com/product/c800-toyota-lexus-brake-bleeder-adapter/

I have used both of the above, and they are quality tools.

 

yes, this works fine and is much less expensive.

 

And syntenic fluid is to be avoided?

 

Thats the main selling point for me

 

All brake fluid is synthetic.

Any brand of DOT3, or DOT3/4 fluid as you see some labeled, is ok. Fresh is best here, not some old stock sitting on the back shelf.

 

perfect, thanks

 

Does anyone know the bolt size for mounting the wheel cylinder to the backing plate? I'm anticipating the bolts being rusted and probably snapping when trying to remove since this has happened a couple times already on other parts. I'm assuming m8 of some type?

 

Believe they are M6, though it'd be pretty easy to bring those to a hardware store and find a bolt that fits, just have to make sure the length is right.

 

The main reason I push people away from the classic method is simply due to the number of people we've had come here with dicked up brakes after bleeding (that I initially assumed was poor rear brake adjustment but turned out to be blown booster or MC seal/s), because they jammed the pedal to the floor. I've never once seen this happen with vacuum or pressure/reverse-pressure bleeding. But I guess the latter two/three are less common.

Never in my life have I ever owned a vehicle where the pedal travel was long enough to actuall blow out any seals so I was, frankly, shocked the first time I saw someone here saying they had to replace the MC after bleeding. Since then, I've seen blown booster seals and MC seals a couple of times. It's mindboggling to me. Still, I think it's well worth echoing, and I think if more people saw how easy vacuum bleeding was, they'd switch. I'd love to use pressure bleeding, and have the "auto refill" setup to send new fluid into the reservoir (I know you can use the old water bottle trick, but still...) but the reality is, I couldn't justify the $$ and the lack of a truly snap-on cap for the MC res was a turnoff. The cap adapter alone, if you use a manufactured one instead of creating a new one like PHM so cleverly did BITD, cost as much as my vacuum bleeder.

I'm a traditionalist in a lot of ways. I probably won't ever go back to classic bleeding.

Teeing off this great tidbit to say two things:

Brake fluid is hygroscopic, i.e. it absorbs and holds water. Water in metal brake lines, whether copper or steel, causes corrosion. This is why you don't want to use old fluid.

My personal opinion, I believe old-straight-off-the-shelf is fine. It's sealed airtight from the factory, so it's not like it's going to be able to intake any significant water. But, I think to @dt325ci's point, if you already opened a bottle and it's been sitting up in your garage for 1-2 years, even if you wrenched down the cap super tight, don't use that fluid for a full flush. Maybe if you sealed it in a zip-top baggie, or airtight container. But generally speaking: Don't use pre-opened fluid.

 

You're right, it's a m6 1.0 10mm. If looking up by part number its 90119-06084. My home depot didnt have that size so ended up just getting this dorman pack from carquest