'05 Tundra - 210k miles - Smart buy? (newbie looking for help)

My monkey brain may be getting the hang of it. Though I'm still not fully grasping why the pinching would make the RPM/idling drop. Seems like it would do the opposite?

Also, I know you're not a fan of scAmazon,,, but would this

$82 Dorman 911-614 Power Steering Air Control Valve Compatible with Select Lexus / Toyota Models

Dorman do the trick? Close to $40 cheaper!

 

Don't buy parts on scamazon, dude. Period. Too many counterfeits. Do you really want to pay Dorman prices for some shit that's made from Dorman castaways from the dumptser in an alley, then put in a Dorman box?

$73 on RockAuto: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinf...arnTketKsj8mBVfUw4Svq7WWQbeeWcM+kqH6B88a2dA==

 

No I do not. RockAuto it is!

 

Transmission fluid change helped needed.

I bought the transmission fluid and will be knocking this out soon. I've scoured the internets and it seems fairly simple but still have some questions.

1) there is apparently much more fluid in the system than the 4qts I bought. Looks like it will drain somewhere up to 3qts and then you refill. I've seen one video where he drains & refills, then drains it and fills it right away again. Others seem to suggest draining and refilling several times that month. So ummms,, wut? I get the concept seems to be to circulate the fluid around that way you're continuing to drain additional old fluid that's in the truck. Either way, I'm a bit confused here - is this not a one time drain & refill of the 3qts every however many miles job?

2) my driveway is slanted a bit. Is that okay? I park to where the front end sits higher than the rear end. Do I need to do this on level ground? One guy said he left his on level ground overnight before doing the job. Shoot,,, now that I think about it, I've been changing my oil on this slanted driveway...

3) do I need to drive the truck around a bit to warm it up before doing anything? I imagine so but just want to confirm

4) the temp check issue... ain't no way I'm buying these expensive temperature guns. Is everyone doing this? Between the temp, the check plug and the trickle you've got to let out,,, this is where it begins to break my confidence in doing this myself. My chimp brain is easily confuzd

Thanks for everything guys - definitely nice to have you all in my corner!

 

Truck needs to be level in order to drain the max amount of fluid out. And ensure that the level is proper after refilling. A drain and fill is pretty safe, doing so replenishes some of the friction modifiers lost to heat and time. Doing a drain and fill at each oil change for the next 2 or 3 is a great start. Then every 30k miles or so, or whatever interval tickles your fancy.

 

What type fluid did you buy?

 

Nice, I can manage that - thanks!

When you say "ensure that the level is proper after refilling" - what does that mean exactly?

 

The

$58 Toyota 00289-ATFWS Lexus & Automatic Transmission Fluid WS ATF World Standard, Pack of 4

good stuff from what I can tell

 

He's asking because '00-02 uses ATF, '03-04 uses T-IV, and '05-'06 uses WS fluid. Three different year ranges, three different types of fluid.

 

Do some research prior to getting started. There is a check plug on the side of the transmission that is used to determine proper fill level. Fluid must be at the right temp, and engine running when checking. Then when you pull the check plug, the fluid should just barely dribble out. Don’t just replace what comes out. The fluid level may not have been correct to start with after this many years.

 

Wrong link sent - here's what I got from the dealership. ATF WS Fluid. Ignore the feet, unless that's your thing...

 

Okay, thank you. I've looked around and understand the gist of it, but I can't imagine everyone has a temp gauge to make sure it's at the exact right temp?

If it just barely dribbles out, it should be good - what constitutes a dribble? Seems very subjective. Sorry, not trying to be contentious, just trying to better understand what exactly it should look like. It's possible that I'm overthinking it. If you have any solid resources you know of, I'd love to check them out.
Thanks again

 

Keep looking. There's a way to put the truck into a trans service mode. Borrowed from another post.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?app=desktop&v=ej_6BZpK3gg

 

Coolant flush. All right, I drained the radiator. It was a shit show lol. And it was green coolant. Not good. My reservoir has pink coolant in it. Am I supposed to drain that somehow too?

Also, definitely doing a full flush now since it was green coolant, and I shouldn’t be mixing the two.

Not sure if I should be flushing it out with distilled water or something in between? If it’s not necessary I do not want to do it. The coolant I bought is the pink stuff from Toyota prediluted. Can I get away with just draining the two ports connected to the engine? And then refilling with the good stuff

 

The amount in the overflow is probably negligible when considering the bigger picture.

I can't tell you how many times I've used hose-water to flush out an engine block. If you're draining both block drains and the radiator after, then adding SLLC pink, I don't see why you can't get away with water out of the hose.

Look, I'm a purist when it makes sense. But unless you have some super-fucked local water, as long as you have city water, you should be good to use that as a flushing liquid.

 

Sweet. I’m going to use hose water then. Do I need to worry about the ratio after I drain the water out since the good coolant I bought says it is already pre-diluted and does not need more water mixed in?

 

Nope. No if you use all three drains.

 

A crap ton is still held up in the water pump and oil cooler lines fyi

 

Driver side is a PITA. 10 mm right?

 

Dumb question. Alright next question - how much water to fill it with?

 

till its full with 50/50 mix Aisin red or pink

 

no no,,, I’m simply putting water in it. Let me know what you guys think.

steps:
- drain all shitty coolant out. Done
- plug everything up.
- fill with water up to the top of radiator.
- close cap
- start truck WITH ONLY WATER in the system. Let run for several minutes.
- drain water same way coolant was drained.
- plug everything up and fill with PREDILUTED coolant.
- run engine and pop all bubbles
- done

 

Those steps look about right to me. You could also consider a couple of water flushes if you've got time.

I dunno if I'd use the metric of "crap ton". I'd expect half a quart or less. And if you're flushing with water in between, once or twice, it will be so dilute I'd feel it's "insignificant".

 

Okay, I’m feeling confident

About how long should I let the engine run for to circulate water while also not spraying myself with burning coolant water when I open it back up?

 

I mean, you're missing a big point here.

Cars typically use a thermostat. And that thermostat doesn't open to allow coolant to circulate until you hit north of the upper-100°s in most cars I've owned. I don't know OTOH what temp our Tundra's 2UZ uses, but I'd expect it to be at least 180-220.

If you need coolant to flow while the engine is cold you'd need to remove the t-stat.

 

^ this.

Do the 2nd (or 3rd) flush with distilled water if you want to be extra froufrou.



You'll need to get the engine to full temp and wait for it to cool for the draining. Or remove the thermostat.

 

Alright, this makes sense. I’ll let the engine run to get up to temperature. Then let it cool before going back in

 

During your flushes leave the radiator cap off and watch for water circulation. You’ll see movement when the thermostat opens.

 

They cost less than a gallon of coolant

$19 Etekcity Infrared Thermometer Laser Temperature Gun 774, Meat Food Candy Oven Thermometer for Griddle Accessories, Heat Gun for Cooking Refrigerator Tools, Yellow

LINK