General Supercharger Thread

That shits crazy I see 5/6 psi on half throttle at 2500 rpm. And my PE is set to 30/25%.

 

Since you were mentioning adjusting the tune...

My current philosophy (ever changing ) is to have a 2deg separation of PE. I thought 5deg was a bit much, sometimes with cruise id barely eek into engaging PE and then not throttle down enough to disengage it. 2deg seems like enough separation that it's not constantly bouncing between PE on and off, but is low so that it doesn't unnecessarily stay in PE when it barely engaged it to begin with.

On the subject of PE I've also become a lot more comfortable with somewhat higher afr, before I tried to target in the mid 10s but nowadays try to average at 11.0. I've heard OTT and Prospeed target in the 11s, I had a guy yesterday who I had at 11.6 and that's what he wanted. It seems like AFR can bounce by +/-0.5 depending on how you ramp into the throttle, which is why I like being around 11.0, sometimes it might be in the high 10s, other times might be low 11s. But my current tune just happened to end up with PE usually around 11.2 or so and I was lazy to adjust it so have just been running it like that for awhile now and the truck has been happy about it. Even towing stuff where it's in boost climbing a hill for minutes on end. I do not think in the 10s is bad at all, just arguably overly conservative from my experience so far.

Of course though, you don't know where the cliff is until you fall off so take it with a grain of salt, but that is how my fueling logic has evolved over time from 5deg separation at 10.5 average, to now 2deg at 11.0

 

11.06

 

@Silver17

and photos of the lift that's going to be installed in that thing....

 

If you had different pistons and rings I'd run 11.5-12.5 afr no problem. Until then I'll keep it mid 10's for upper boost, 8psi on up. I think I've been targeting 10.8 afr up to 6psi then it drops to 10.5-10.3 with w/m.

 

Is there supposed to be something in my cat? I noticed a rattle. Ordered a new cat under warranty and went to replace. Huh?
I'll have to look at the other side too.

 

That looks like my stocker when I blew it to chunks!

 

Question but why so rich? I know the ls world is 12’s. Why run the tundras so rich? The hemi’s I’ve seen 11-12 is happy.

 

Well...it stems from engine failures due to ring failure. Myself, ViktorG and a few others back in 2012-2014 had engine failures. The piston rings are pretty tight combined with thin lands led to failure. It is believed they overheat and bind seizing in the cylinder. Connecting rod failure was another issue. It was thought to run them pig rich to keep the cylinder cool under high boosted loads. We had crap tuni g too.
With better fueling and tuning we could most likely go leaner. It happened to a few N/A engines but mostly forced induction. A few on tundra talk and solutions. A few that kept quiet out of embarrassment...
I have started to ease up a little but I'm still cautious over 10psi.
From 10-13.7 psi it sits at 10.5 afr but the W/M sometimes makes it dip more. I stopped trying to mess with it.

 

As a person who owns 2 types of lifts, do you want you want to hear some real life thoughts?

 

TBD! I have to see what @koditten has for opinions before I could possibly make a decision. Honestly though, I haven’t spent much time looking into the lift possibilities just yet. I initially like the idea of a lift like this atlas lift @ViktorG showed a picture of once.

Well surely I do! Nothing better than real world feedback.

 

I'd have to look at a log to be certain, but I think I'm in the same neighborhood.

 

Those are great lifts. I just had a Triumph C-7000 "portable" 2 post lift delivered, now I just need time to install it.

 

I'll be in the market in a few years & would love input!

That Atlas is not cheap @ 8200.

 

My asymmetrical Bendpack 10k 2 post is rocking for me...if you can install it diagonally in a space, it's much easy getting ALL your crap into a shop..."less" in the way. Portable ones, either 2post or 4, are super great too...it is more annoying than hard to move them but how often does one move them around? The casters are expensive but like you all know, having the right tool for the job, even if it's once, makes it worth owning 90% of the time!

 

Yup because of you guys I tap in low 10's and stay below 11s.

 

That Bendpack & a smaller version of that shop are what I am shooting for when we build our new house.

 

I really hate all you guys with big shops and lifts

 

My 1st love is my mid height lift. I added a piece of plate steel so I could use the lift as a work bench.

I love the fact that I can move it outside when the weather is nice. These lift don't require 12' ceilings. This is the deatailers choice for doing waxes. No post that have to be worked around, either. 90% of car work, the vehicle does not need lifted to head height. A roll around stool let's you do oil changes with ease.

This hoist never needs adjusted. All 2 post lifts build up air in the hydraulics, thus requiring the arms to be adjusted on a regular basis.

I like my 2 post unit, but it does have its disadvantages.

Our Tundras are too wide. The balance point is near the center of the front doors. To get out, you have to squeeze thru a tight gap between the door and the post. I cheat and just exit the back seat.

The 2 post can't be moved. I'm constantly tripping over the arms or I just lift the empty hoist as high as it will go. I'm 5'10" so I can walk under the arms. My six foot friends hit their head.

For safety, I put 6' jack stands under the truck when doing tire rotations, the center of gravity can really change when you remove 2 tires from one end of the vehicle. This is for safety, but those jack stands really take up a lot of space.

 

Don't give your money to KillerChiller, I ordered their kit and never received it.

I have the FI Interchiller universal kit, but haven't installed it yet...I wasn't too keen on the original design solenoid, but the newer "normally open" version allows the truck AC to operate like stock until you trigger the solenoid and divert the refrigerant.

I have a crack on my AC condenser that I will replace this year with the version that doesn't have the built-in transmission cooler. When I do that I will plumb up the FI Interchiller system and see if I can do a thermo-controlled on/off like my electric fan.

As far as AFR goes, I prefer to stay richer, like 10.5 at WOT, the piston ring gaps in these engines are tight to reduce blow-by for emissions. Too lean and they expand until the ends meet, then push up against the ringlands and break the pistons apart. This happened on my SC'd Tacoma after a "spirited" drive home on a cool October day, too lean for too long, and game over. Ever since then, I've been kind of paranoid about fuel delivery.

 

I've been trying to keep eyes on WB gauge during pulls but it's hard, how are you guys doing it? by filming?

 

It takes practice

 

Not to be Debbie downer as @armyoffoo stated it can happen. But I really haven't heard too much since "Real Tuning" came along. Yes, a little paranoid.

 

My older AEM flashes red when I hit pre marked areas of the afr.

 

Killer chiller does seem to be the less reputable of the options, and if I were to take the plunge the Interchiller would be my go to. Killer Chiller at a glance seemed to be a poor design that could lead to liquid slugging and killing the compressor (no suction superheat). Do you mind my asking what the kit ran you from Interchiller? Being able to cool intake air temperatures well below ambient temperature is simply an amazing concept. Can’t wait to hear more about yours when you get it installed.

 

The Stage 1 universal kit was almost $1500 shipped, and I just purchased the upgraded solenoid today for $120 shipped. I'll post up when I install it.

 

Mine was with a BullyDog tuner, so yeah, far from what we have available now with better fail-safes.

 

If you've got crap tuning then that makes sense why you keep it so rich.

 

Back then we only had bulldog the dap...still the ring gap and lands aren't that spectacular.
I'm all for getting the most power. Say your at 11.5 have a fueling/timing issue it jumps to 12-12.5 and your WOT.
I believe @helidave and some others looked into some products that would cut boost with a lean out. But for now I'm just trying to be safe. Will it ever happen, who knows.

 

It looks like Whipple is getting out of the Tundra game.

I asked about lead times yesterday and was told: "At this time, we are not taking orders for Toyota products. "

I asked if they could elaborate - if I should check back in a couple of months, or if I should look at other options: "I would probably steer toward a discontinuation of the kits, as Toyota has gone away from the V8 as a whole. "

I pushed a little further and asked if there were a couple of guys that wanted to order a kit: "I can look into that, but I don't necessarily know when and if we will offer the kit. "

XAT may have some more info next week, but perhaps somebody else here like @memario1214 knows more, being a vendor? I know they have been backordered for some time (16 weeks when I asked at the beginning of January), mostly due to the snout inlet. Or maybe they are upgrading to a Gen 6. A guy can dream, can't he?