Bmf and JakeJakes sequoia axle shenanigans

Jake is working on it some today. I'm gonna grab a new belt for Donut and run over there and change it and grab some pics.

 

Don't forget to loom that wire going down the drive framerail while you're in there! And if you ever wanted to run a backup camera, if you don't have one, now is the time to do it.

 

Started the day by tacking in a temporary brace, and removing the spare tire carrier.


Put together a drawing for these frame boxing plates, and cut a pair.


So many brackets


The aftermath


Ready to start going back together.

 

I’m slow/special, why wouldn’t the oem cross brace work? Or just because beeftown?

 

Option 3: Tube is light/strong/sexy.

 

Heard

 

Not only is this taking the frame to the next level beef town, but that fitment is fkn level 10. Color me impressed. Nice work Jake.
I like what you did with the weep holes too, and for northern salties like me, a place to apply rust inhibitor through

 

Oh shit. I didn't realize y'all were boxing in the frame.

 

Couple of photos to keep this thread on page 1. Entering the home stretch on the major fabrication. Shock mounts in the morning, then Hopefully I can get everything welded out.

 

So are y'all keeping the leaf packs as is, or planning a bastad pack, or what?
The u-bolt eliminaters are pretty neat. What advantages do they provide over a u-bolt flip? Less likely to have axle wrap?

 

Putting in the wheelers AAL.

 

Smart man! You won't be disappointed.
I suspect those deaver leafs you gave me would be a bit stiffer. The progressive wheelers AALs are just right IMHO. Not too stiff (like most single AALs) and not too soft (like most other progressive AALs).
I still need to install those deavers on my Alcans. Hopefully before T2S. But no big deal, if not. She road just fine with the hard topper at HF.

Just a slight squat.

 

There's several advantages to a u-bolt eliminator:

Better clamping/control of the spring pack
Better control of axle wrap-related to the above ^
Way more beef/weld/size than the oem perch
uses standard off the shelf bolts-easy to source replacements- easy to impact in and out
this design allows for wheelbase adjustment + or - 1 inch
Smooth bottom of the axle tube without anything to hang up on

opportunity to add lift without springs/blocks etc. I setup Beau's truck using the factory tundra offsets so no added lift on this one, but any tundra leaf will bolt right in at its advertised measurements (+1.5" for his TG progressive AAL for example).

 

How do you add lift without spring or blocks? Weld in a thicker base?

 

Changing this offset between the axle tube and the spring perch will adjust ride height.

 

Jake got Ironman all wrapped up today. Holy hell I actually have brakes now. A few pics I grabbed today.













Truck feels great. Looks amazing under there! I was able to crawl on my hands and knees under there. There's still some work to be done, but it's out of surgery and driving.

Needs new wheel bearings.
Needs new brakes.
Needs parking brakes
Needs a longer rear brake hose to the axle.

We're looking at options on the rear bearings. They're easier to do supposedly, but more expensive. Timkens are $160 a piece for just the bearings. Then it needs new retainers, tone rings, c-clips, oil seals, and something else.

Well give it a shakedown run at Merus when we get some new bearings in it.

 

Looks beast. Timkens ain’t what the used to be.

 

So is the rear axle any wider than before?
I'm jealous of that shock relocation

 

Beck/arnley or centric are my other choices. About fiddy bucks cheaper though.

That's with no spacers.

 

Spacers in front or no?
Pretty sure they're there in front, but just for clarification.

 

Koyo is OEM for those bearings too. They spendy

 

Spacers still on in front.

 

I have a ton of pictures. Unfortunately most of them are terrible mix of greasy camera lens, bad lighting, and Dale blocking the subject matter. Here's a few of the best of the worst for your viewing pleasure.

Prop Valve- Plumbed with re-bent and re-flared factory lines


Rear axle hardline- This is the OEM tundra line re-bent. Mounting provisions added to the axle housing.


Butta'


Painted and re-re-reassembled. Out in the sun for the first time in 10 days.


The tightest of fit between the upper mounts and the bed floor. Not ideal, and not what I was planning for, but the way she goes sometimes.


My other big oopsie, and biggest regurt on this whole project. Somehow I missed the interference between the new x-brace and one of the bed crossmembers. Should have plasma cut a gusset to reinforce the area that I removed while I had the bed off. Notch is about 1" or 1/3 of the crossmembers original height. Definitely weakened to some degree, but for Beau's intended use it'll be just fine.



All in this was about 80 hours of work over a 10 day period, and realistically needs another ~10ish in finishing some of the details. Definitely learned a few things, And have a better idea of the process/pricing/nuance of working on someone else's project. Im pooped and the shop is a mess.

Overall a cool way to get rear discs on a tundra, and Im stoked on the breaking performance.

 

Looks awesome. He should be ready for GFF and WFF at T2S!

 

Why does it look like the shocks will bottom out before it reaches the bumpstops?

that smooth shave axle is hawt.

 

What bumpstops?

Thats still on the list. The factory bumps will be just about perfect when compressed.

 

Recreate this:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...lip-daystar-cradle-bump-stop-sold-out.638686/

 

Dude is printing money.

I have a similar setup on my truck

I don't think Bmf would care to have bags, although that does give me an idea of using a non oem bump stop for a cleaner mounting.

 

Yeah, I'm good on the bags. Is there an upgrade option we could do?