What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

https://youtube.com/shorts/44ZAGcxuBbw?si=qN_x_-8X6DGZOWYu

 

https://youtube.com/shorts/NxSwTq5EnYs?si=RrTPC6PZRrkPiarb

 

Maybe someone smarter will speak up but I would think fuel draining off/loosing prime during the first crank then repriming and firing off on the second.

 

Finished the timing belt today around 330, filled it with coolant and it fired off without skipping a beat. When you buy new radiator hose clamps from Toyota, they come pre-sprung!!! That was exciting to let loose when it was time. New rad hoses, rad, and cap. The rad they sent was missing a threaded clip to mount it to the support so I just stole the side bars off my old one

 

Well shit... let me apologize for being one of the newbie / rookies who just jumps on here in An emergency trying to figure stuff out 10 minutes before I need to drive down California for 3 hours... I think I F'd up. I was given a wix filter. Didn’t even consider the aftermarket junk I just read from that thread. I'll be changing back to the best I can buy... I still have the one I took off..? Anyhow just had a great experience @ the auto parts store... some tweeker walked out with an expensive tool kit and just started running... well the young man who works there actually got in his car and chased him down and brought it back.... no wrestling match needed... he had his own gun handy to persuade the POS to drop it politely and keep moving on... best thing I've seen in a long time..! I'll eventually figure out what's bothering my Toyota... just need some suggestions so I can do the YouTube university and figure it out... and hopefully buy more tools for my collection...

 

Did it specifically start after the deer, or weeks after, months after, ???

I see that crack on your windshield. That's a potentially huge problem. Have you checked your ECU and the back of the in-dash fusebox for water intrusion? From the community Megathread, I'd be checking all these things if I were you:

• These trucks usually don't have a ton of other electrical issues. Hidden corrosion inside the battery/alt cables happens. Sometimes, a couple thousand miles after timing belt changes, people will have startup issues because the crank position sensor wasn't properly tucked away and gets rubbed by a belt (pic), correct routing info here. There's also a similar problem with camshaft position sensor under the cam cover, where the belt will rub through (pics). There's the rodent issues mentioned earlier. Occasionally, water leaks can send water down into the ECM behind the glovebox (pics), or into the fusebox inside the cab/dash (pics & pics & pics, it happens a LOT). Many drain/vampire issues trace back to aftermarket add-ons whether the owner knows they exist or not - alarms as mentioned earlier, brake controllers, poorly installed trailer receptacles, those are some big ones.

 

Sequoia. I gave this dude my old LCA's and he put some poly bushings in em. Didn't get to the steering rack and tie rods. But we're both off work toward the end of this week, and he's still waiting on new coilovers. I worked last night and I'm at work now....burning the candle at both ends

 

You said your code is for MAF sensor. What MAF sensor do you have in there?

 

Looks like a sweet tree

 

It's *GOT* a j shift transfer case from an FJC

Edited typo

 

Tree=sequoia

 

Duh...

Just=got
Stupid smartphone not so smart.

 

I'm running on two hours or sleep tonight. Worked 00:00-08:00 at the hospital (walked about 6 miles that shift), then worked 09:00-16:00 on the tree, and now I'm at my usual job 19:00-07:00. Going for 8 miles tonight. We'll see if I have the guts.

 

I’ve been MIA for a bit. Winter was cold and everything on the truck was working great so I left it alone. Yesterday I replaced a tail light and hooked up my rear diff breather relocation to the driver taillight. The valve I got was apparently not a 1 way valve as air flowed in/out, but I tested the old one and it worked perfectly so I reused it despite being threaded and putting it into a hose. Today I decided to install spark plugs I bought a few months ago. I couldn’t find the spark plug torque spec quickly enough just searching, so I watched a tundra YouTube video and skipped to the TQ spec part. Stated 18 ft/lbs. I set it at 17 ft/lbs and used no thread seal to prevent over tightening - swapped them all out. Now that I’m done I found that it was 18NM or 13ft/lbs. not 18 Ft/lbs….. how could YouTube lie to me!! Haha. So I am over torqued, the crush washer is already crushed. Do I back them off and go back to 13? Or just call it a problem for “future me”.

 

I think you should be tldine. I've never torqued mine on any vehicle. I always go finger tight with the long extension, then a quarter turn with the ratchet.

 

Yeah that's probably about 13ft/lbs

 

Ditto. Always went by feel. But never owned a Ford, or any other brand of vehicle with known issues about thread stripping.

 

I had two that came out super easily and had some fouling on the coil boot. It seemed like some exhaust gas could have leaked through?

 

I have a wix fuel filter. I've had it on my truck for 4 years and no issue. Wix is one of the best filter brands you can get. That's not to say that there couldn't be something defective on yours but they usually make a good product.

 

Wix from NAPER here, 3.5yrs, np

 

For the record, I'm a Wix guy too. If you search against my username in this forum, and the term "wix", you'll probably find a dozen or more times I've mentioned it.

 

So I was doing some work on the rear leaf springs and had the truck with jackstands on the frame to help the rear axle droop. Was Working on the Driver side, with the lower shock bolt removed to allow that side to droop further down.

After several times of raising the axle up and down for various reasons, I was lowering it and it wasnt going down as far as it was before. Then I noticed why it wasnt drooping as much... A spare jack stand I had sitting under the truck had caught the parking brake cable on the driver side and was stretching the cable like crazy with the weight from the axle resting on it.

So now im curious. Did I just over adjust the drum brakes on the Driver side by doing this? Also mess up the adjustment on passenger side as well? Or just stretch the cable and have to take some of the new slack out of it?

I checked the rears for drag and unloosened the star adjuster, then re-adjusted for some drag. The bell cranks seemed to have the right adjustment still, and I took some slop out of the adjustment on the cable towards the front of the truck to get the right amount of "clicks" throw out of the parking brake lever. Havent had a chance to drive it yet and see how the brake pedal feels, but just figured I'd ask you guys to see what might have happened by stretching the parking brake cable so severely!

 

I doubt the cable has been stretched. It’s pretty amazing just how strong they are. You could drag the whole back half of a rusted out honda accord down a gravel county road for at least 10 miles before one would break.

 

Do we need to ask you how you know, or should we just assume?

 

But do you think pulling on the parking brake cable added a bunch of clicks to my adjuster?

 

You're assuming your adjuster is actually working, I don't even think mine is truly working. I've been meaning to go out and jack the ass-end up and test whether it is or not.

That said, The auto-adjuster (when working) is a ratchinging mechanism, I thought, or am I wrong? If it's truly a ratchet system, it would all depend on how many clicks per pull it'll do. If it only clicks once per tug, then what you did would only move it one click.

 

Yea I can pull on my brake lever and hear it click in the back from time to time.

 

If I'm not mistaken, each time you pull the cable/apply the parking brake, that's one click.

 

I know when I step on my e-brake pedal, the pedal itself ratchets, but I'm pretty sure that's pedal-specific and independent of what's happening at the auto-adjuster. I'm going from memory, but I swear the last time I cheated on adjusting things down, I pulled on the adjuster where the cable attaches, and it would only click once per tug. I mean, you can obviously try the same and see (A) if your autoadjuster is actually working and (B) if it will click more than once per tug. That should answer your question.