Another JBL amp bypass thread

When connecting the harness on the dash side, I believe this is the ASCW connector on the bottom of the photo and the pins do not match the factory pins at the top of the photo.
I vaguely recall reading on here that this might be a Metra error and their connector needs to be repinned?

And I'm going to wrap that electrical tape with Tessa tape. I was repairing the wires when I found the insulation stripped but the wires not cut.

 

Metra issue was with another harness entirely, non-JBL amp bypass IIRC.

In this case, I think Metra did correctly. Note the pins are in alignment. The wires they're not including, I believe are going to be the TX -/+ wires and the IVO +/- wires which are controls for the JBL amp operations internally.

EDIT: Here's a pic, compare the wire colors, I deffo see the pink/blue in the top-left of the OEM connector at positions 12 and 11, I presume:

​

 

Wait, you just mentioned "dash side" and "ASWC", so it's possible I missed something.

The pieces you're holding in your picture don't match what I'm expecting. The top connector in your hand looks like it's for the radio, to go to the Metra radio harness, not the ASWC.

 

I snapped another photo for orientation. I believe it is the ASWC.

 

Got it. I'll hafta dig thru EWD and my old photos when I get back from the job I'm running out to manage. Can probably catch that in 4-5 hours.

 

No problem and thank you for all the assistance shifty!
I'm going to dig and hopefully find that post that referenced an improper metra pin out.

 

Found the thread
https://www.tundras.com/threads/1st-gen-steering-wheel-control-adaptors.151280/

Looks like the

$12 Metra 70-8114 Metra Toyota 20-pin Steering Wheel Control Add-on Harness with RCA

Metra 70-8114 is wrong relative to the factory harness. I've never done repinning on a harness.

 

Just a thought, but when I replaced the stereo in my DC and bypassed the JBL amp with the harness it was so much more difficult than just running new speaker wires. In hindsight, I would have only used the harness for the steering wheel controls and the headunit.

Do you have the stock JBL speakers upfront?

 

Yep, stock JBL speakers.
I think that I'm close to getting this wrapped up.
Definitely frustrating though.

 

Like my 04 DC, that's the radio R15 connector for your 05 DC.
The bottom pins of their connector are for steering pad SW and appear proper color wise and pin wise....6-8.
Their top 3 pins showing are 15-17....if any of that helps.

 

Thanks for this, @BubbaW

@G_unit3000 there's not many ways this can connect. It's normal to have wires that don't pin out. You'll find some on the amp harness side, and some on the radio side which don't line up and/or don't carry through. Factory added wiring to support comms between the amp and radio, steering wheel and radio, and terminated both into the same connector in the dash (or so it would appear). Test everything before you close up the dash - but note: You *MUST* plug in the dash bezel harness (that powers the clock etc.) for the radio to get power in most (if not all) our models.

 

Good job keeping at it!

 

Thanks @Bubba

When I connected the headunit to test it, no power. Nothing turned on. When looking through the connections, I see this below which looks like a bit more hackery?

There is a small connector inside the dash that is taped to the larger wire harness and also appears to have wires originating form the larger wire harness.
Any idea about how to proceed?

 

Just in case you missed this above reminder from @Shifty ...

"You *MUST* plug in the dash bezel harness (that powers the clock etc.) for the radio to get power in most (if not all) our models."

In case it's a fuse issue, there are 2.....7.5A RAD NO. 2 and 25A RAD NO. 1.
If you wish to check for voltage at the R14 connector, it's pin 1(L-Y) and pin 11(GRey with key in ACC).

That small grey connector is R30 for those that had OEM Navigation radios.
For your 05 DC, it should have at least 2 conductors at that connector....one for speed(SPD) from VSS and reverse(REV). Colors should match pic below.

 

Appreciate the assistance @BubbaW
This vehicle has a single din radio that functioned when I bought it so hopefully I can get this sorted.

Dash bezel harness is connected and clock functions.
I will check the fuses again. I had previously tested all of the fuses when trying to figure out why one of the cig lighters ( by my right knee) didn't function. I still don't know why.
Thanks for info on R30 connector. This apparently is not part of the problem.

 

Don't discredit the radio being DOA if it's ATOTO brand. You'd be about the 4th I've seen that's gotten a DOA unit. It's a garbage/throwaway brand. When it works, it works, but sometimes they don't.

If you're ever in doubt, don't forget:

• "Tug-test" any crimped or soldered wires
• Before you go nuts, test the power leads: Pop free the red wire and the yellow wire, test the Metra end of the wire to verify the yellow has constant 12v, and the red has 12v when key is at ON. If that's good, it may be the radio.
• Testing the radio for function is simple enough, just pop the red, yellow, and black wires free on the radio harness free. Twist the yellow and red together (power). Get a 9V battery or any motorcycle or residential alarm battery. Hold the black wire to the negative terminal (larger circle if a 9v), and tap the yellow/red twisted pair to the positive terminal. If the radio doesn't come on, see if it has fuses in the rear of the chassis; test those. If good, you got a DOA unit, start your return.
• If radio powers up on battery, time to go back over yoru wiring. Make sure none of the wires are stabbing thru against each other, sometimes solder joints can be pointy.

 

Thanks @shifty`
I'll try these things.
I pulled the Atoto headunit out of my wrecked Jeep so it has crossed my mind that it could have been damaged by a short.

 

@BubbaW @shifty`
Thanks guys, finally got back around to figuring out my headunit and I've got power! Two blown fuses.
7.5A RAD NO. 2 - blown in the interior fuse pane.

25A RAD NO. 1. - blown in the larger engine bay fuse panel.

Finally got it powered and sound going to all 4 doors.

Last little hitch that I'm having is that the SWC harness (

$12 metra 70-8114 metra toyota 20-pin steering wheel control add-on harness with RCA

metra 70-8114) female white connector doesn't fit properly with the factory side male white connector (R15). I've been filing down the female side but connectors will only go about half way together. I've read about this same complaint on Crutchfield's site and elsewhere. I've taken quite a bit of material off the connector but not enough yet.

 

I’d contact crutchfield on that one, see what they have to say.

 

I mounted the headunit yesterday and I feel like I am back in the 2020s again. The vents arent too covered by this 10.1inch floating screen. I still have to install the USB plugin into the cigarette lighter location by my right knee. Somehow I misplaced the large plastic nut that threads onto the back of that USB plugin. I rewired the cigarette lighter to the USB charger with a green voltage readout into the blank in the center console. I also need to install the rear camera which is now sitting on my front seat.
Speakers in all 4 doors sounds great with plenty of volume. Thanks again @shifty` and @BubbaW .

 

Any details on what you did with the SWC connector to finally get good fitment?

 

Turned out better than I thought with that style radio. Doesn’t block bents too bad.

After 20 yrs, you outta consider cutting that lock cylinder some slack and remove of that heavy key chain

 

That's still on the to-do list!
I am not seeing lights on the Axxess box so it seems that there is not enough engagement of the white connector to power it. If it lit up, I would just zip tie it together and call it good.

 

I saw that in the photo right after posting and thought the same prior to reading your observation lol.
I agree, it needs to be trimmed down.

 

Definitely reach out to Crutchfield. They were a God send when doing my install. My issue with connector was just the opposite, it was a very loose fit but super 33 tape took care of that.

Our 04/05 use the same R15 female connector....90980-12259 and the corresponding male connector 90980-12261 if by chance you need to go that route. Hopefully Crutchfield will come thru.

 

I haven't ordered anything from Crutchfield so hopefully they will still give me advice on what to buy from them (which I will do). I will report whatever they say. I have seen numerous complaints both on Crutchfield and elsewhere that are similar to mine about this Metra SWC harness female connector not seating into the factory male connector.

 

I've seen the complaints at Crutchfield about the 8114 connector but they were about pins not being right. Maybe I missed the others.

My bad, just looked at your post #2 and it's an Amazon order and came from China....
If you're willing to re-pin the same connector from Crutchfield which is only $15, I'll wager it fits. If I lose the wager, we can become PayPal buddies

 

Lol I'm going to make the call to them but I might buy a more aggressive file first. I'm just so happy now driving my truck with new LBJs and a working headunit. Steering wheel controls seem like a relatively small detail at this moment

 

Ooof. Yeah, you probably got counterfeit product my bro. This is why you never order parts on scAmazon. Some of those bastards in mainland China will literally counterfeit anything, I swear.