General Supercharger Thread

I figured out my P2128 TPS issue...the pink wire within the harness to ECM on the passenger side, was broke...mice, errant SABM optimizations, I'm not sure but she wasn't connected...spliced them together and ooooh man! She works as intended! I feel like lighting up the garage floor I'm so excited!! Moral of the story, check your harness...all of it, it sucks but something isn't talking right I feel!

 

I don't have the truck. Part of their assholeism is if I take it back, they are done.

As I was typing this, they called, said the MAF was melted inside it's connector (MAF side) they installed the new one I bought & he drove it home over 20 miles & so far so good.

I have an Air Tag in the truck & my remote start has a cel based GPS map so now I know where he lives

 

You (and they) are making the right call by being patient and letting them work through things.

 

It's actually 20 miles

 

Was this the turbokits MAF that melted or did you install OEM and the new MAF tune? Trying to keep things in focus on the progress and troubleshooting done.
I forgot but is the new ECU your getting from the donor another sequoia one with same options frame no.?

 

It is a pain but it happens. When I lost obd power it was from a grounded 5v constant on my air pump. Took a week chasing wires from ecu...

 

Melted is TK been in since April. New is TK just came. ECU is non flex been in about a year. The original Sequoia ECU would not start, I just asked the yard for the '18 Tundra ECU, if needed it will be delivered tomorrow and I'll go and pair it with the truck/put the tune on it.

 

Picked up a new

$38 Gates K081124HD FleetRunner Micro-V Serpentine Drive Belt

Gates K081124HD belt to throw on (running Snivs 2.3 pulley). I’ve got a very minor squeak as soon as the AC kicks on, then quiet for a bit, then minor squeak again. Pressing the AC button will immediately trigger the slight squeak. The belt is only 2 years old and maybe has 10K miles on it. Does this sound like possible belt slippage or stretching?

 

Most likely a combination of stretch and tensioner spring lessening tension. Ribs on pullies getting a bit of glazing? All of it. I usually change tensioner every so often. I think I'm on number 5 for tensioner changes.

 

The tighter the belt I think exacerbates bearing wear. I did the green belt on my 2.3 and then not long after a idler pulley got very loud. So just be prepared to replace the 3 idlers and possibly the other bearing based systems (ac, alt, etc.). Get a stethoscope to identify it so you don’t go insane.

 

HPT responds:

Hello,

Thank you for contacting HP Tuners.

Unfortunately, I cannot move credits like that. The licensing will break when the Vin, OS, or serial number changes. When you you put a different ECM in, you will need to license that new ECM and use more credits.
https://www.hptuners.com/help/VCM-Suite/Content/licensing_vehicles.htm?tocpath=Licensing Vehicles|_____0

Thank you,


Hopefully I don't need a third ECU

Also, am I missing something thinking there should not be enough volts/amps at the MAF to melt anything? Also if that were the case, wouldn't it melt the new one/don't they need to find how the fuck they accomplished that?

 

How'd you find it? Multimeter checking every wire?

 

Would it be a good sign he is taking his kids to school in the Tree?

 

You should text him and ask if they were late to class.

 

Yes, multi-metered the TPS wiring and started following the wires to the ECM...took out the airbox and noticed some marred harness wrap...cut open the harness and saw the pink wire was not really connected...hanging on by the skimpy insulator...as soon as I saw it, I knew I had found it! I'm not sure what happened but the harness has seen better days under the airbox...the airbox was moving around a lot so I'd imagine the driveway jumps helped wear wrap out...

 

That's kinda what I was thinking...why would it melt? Seems more like a result of the issue rather than a cause.

 

Direct short?

 

It's only wiring...you can do it!

Unwrap the electrical tape from the harness on the passenger valve cover, take the convoluted tubing off the wiring bundle and visually inspect the wires. When you are taking the tubing off, use electrical tape or zip ties to keep the bundle in it's original shape.

When inspecting the wiring look for any creases or stretch marks on the sheathing, as well as looking for torn sheathing and exposed copper. There are probably combined grounds in the bundle as well that could have been damaged/disconnected.

If you find a damaged wire, cut out the damaged portion and replace with same gauge wiring using crimps and heat shrink. Rinse and repeat until you don't have any damage left. Then test before putting the tubing back on, and wrap it back up in electrical tape.

Take it one wire at a time, and you can do anything! Below is where I re-routed half of my engine harness on my Tacoma just so I would have room to mount the FPR on the rail. Shortened, lengthened, soldered, all wrapped up in self-vulcanizing tape and water-tight. BTW, I'm no wiring expert, everything I know is because I decided I'd see if I could do it, most of the time I was right...

 

I've really come to appreciate good wiring. It's one of those things that really doesn't cost that much and the quality is almost directly related to the time spent. I used to be pretty bad about wiring (not absolutely terrible though). The last couple years I've tried to up my wiring game and everything looks SO much better. Bad wiring can make something nice look like a pile of shit, and good wiring can make something shitty look like effort was really put into it and it's going to be easy to work on and reliable.

 

I did that with the '18+ Sequoia cluster. Still have 99% of the '19 harness I bought & have used pieces of wire elsewhere.

If I have to I will, right now they have it & it is their responsibility to get it right. I will let them keep it until they say it is done, then I will hope that are right & do it myself (leaving a scathing Yelp review)

New drama, they used over 1/2 tank & are coming for the gas cap key as I only gave them the valet key.

They said it was running fine so far.

 

bet they are driving it hard

 

And letting their kids eat yogurt in the back seats

 

It has captains chairs so there's some distance between the back seat (if he has 2 kids) I suppose I can listen to the camera(s) to hear what went on.

If they break something else while they have it, they get to fix it.

 

Checking wiring is time consuming but the only way to find the root cause. I was going to ask why it melted and what caused it. Reminds of a co-worker who fried the boats radar. I asked what was going on and he said he replaced the fuse 4 times as it kept blowing them...

 

Here's a funny one, I gave it to them 12/22 with more than 1/2 a tank, the gas light came on, it has about 60 miles at that point, they only have the valet key so the owner had to come pick it up as my Son has the Camry, Wife has the Bronco & the BMW has no motor.

When he got here I asked when it will be done, he said he does not know. I said I need a reasonable timeframe. He said less than a week, then he said (I liked this) it is ok now but we need to find why the MAF melted.

I really want it by Friday or I'll have to rent a truck to get the BMW motor.

 

sounds like hes joy riding more than hes worried about getting it done. id keep an eye on your tag where its at through the weekend

 

They need to find out why the MAF melted. Those @TurboKits MAF's are made well and bit more$$ than OEM.

 

The MAF Melted? Any pics or explanations? That's very odd.

 

I just texted him and asked for pictures. I have no explanation, I'll pass it along as soon as they tell me.

 

I figured to tag you since those MAF's are used on a few different platforms with few malfunctions. If the MAF manufacturer may give some insight? I've only seen a burned out element on a MAF.