Anyone ever re-geared a stock truck?

Ya I picked the wheels up from a lady in burnet off of fb. The tires were given to me from a buddy.

Here’s what I have now.

 

Yeah, the finish on those are bad.

 

Finish is bad and I don’t like the style. I like the TRD style.

 

Slowly working on this. Went to mount the test set and the lug nuts I have are just that much to big to fit in the Toyota wheels. So had to go buy new ones. I’ll get these mounted tomorrow.

Fun note, the aftermarket wheels with the 34’s weighs 86.5lbs. The factory Toyota wheels with 32’s weighs 88.5lbs.

 

Truck dropped right at an inch from ground to fender. Test everything this week and see if there’s any difference in mileage and performance. I’d really like to see how it tows but not sure I’ll get that chance.

 

Been a week driving around on the little tires and wheels. Switched back to my regular ones today due to a 6hr road trip and noticed some interesting observations.

First, mileage around town between the 32’s and 34’s was the same 12.5mpg.

This is interesting as second observation was engine load dropped 20-25% while accelerating between the 32’s and 34’s. On the 34’s the engine load (which is read by my head unit through the OBD2 so don’t put stock in the exact numbers as much as the difference) is between 70-78% accelerating up to 55mph. With the 32’s it was between 50-57%. Cruising at 55 the difference was between 10-12%.

Third is the noticeable difference in acceleration. At no point did the engine lug at low rpm while on the 32’s and accelerated easily no matter the speed or gear it was at. I didn’t really notice this difference until I switched back to the 34’s. The exhaust is noticeably louder on the 34’s than the 32’s and I attribute this to engine load being dropped.

Now my dumbass didn’t even think to do some data logging with HPT so I’ll do that on my trip home on the 34’s and throw the 32’s back on and do some more there.

I have decided that my next set of tires are going to be a 33”. The 32’s are to small on the truck and I don’t need 34’s for a pavement queen. Plus I can find some 40-42lb 33’s easily which will only help the performance.

 

Interesting observations.

I’ve got 4.88’s scheduled to go in this week. I just put on 285/65r18 tires (long story) which are basically stock rock warrior tires but on 18’s instead of 17’s. So I’ll call them stock tires, but I still have a set of stock 275/65r18 tires I could swap over.

I’ve been hesitant to make the swap but as long as I don’t lose significant MPG, I’m sure I’ll appreciate the extra pep when towing. Good to see you didn’t lose any mileage in town, even though it was a small sample I do track mileage by hand so it will be easy to see a difference over time.

 

It was mentioned earlier that 5.29’s and 34’s is equivalent to 4.88’s and stock tires so you’ll be fine.

I’d like to tow my rzr with the 32’s but these tires are old and worn and I’m not comfortable dragging that at highway speeds. But I can’t see any downside to it. Might even be able to tow in 6th.

If my truck wasn’t leveled with aftermarket bumpers, I’d stay with the 32’s all day. But it just doesn’t look right with them on there and it’s to much of a pain to source factory bumpers and go to stock suspension. So that’s the compromise to 33’s.

 

Agree 100000000%. It’s also why I’ve spent so much time looking at different suspension setups and why every aftermarket suspension manufacturer thinks I’m a weirdo. Instead of asking them how much lift I can get from their coil overs, I ask how little lift I can run them on. Sole reason being big tires are big money and I usually have to replace them every two years.

Don’t get me wrong - I love the look of 35’s on the truck. I just have to be somewhat reasonable with my tire purchases. Stock size tires do 99% of what I need - they just don’t look as good doing it…

 

5.29s and 33's are a solid combo, even with heavy Falkens.

 

I’m looking forward to that combo.

 

What are highway RPMs like on 32s or 33s with 5.29s? With stock gears and 35s I’m used to towing in S4 at 60-65 at 2800RPMs and 65-70 in S5 at 2200 RPM. There is no towing usability to 6th. I realize that towing at 2200 rpm is probably not feasible without boost. I was hoping with the 5.29s that I will see basically 2800RPMs in 5th at 65-70 and 2200RPMs in 6th if I decided to use it, which would basically just add in one more usable ratio when towing.

 

Think 6th gear 75mph with 32’s and 5.29’s was 24-2500ish. Not bad at all.

When I had stock 4.30’s and 34’s, I had to tow in 4th as 5th was unusable. With the 5.29’s, I can hold 5th gear all day.

 

Yes to centex's post above. 100% regearing opened up another gear. 1000% regearing and FI provided full use of that additional gear. TL;DR below.

I had a break down somewhere for cruising speeds, but I can tell you that at 65'ish, in 5th, tow/haul, I'm in the 2400-2900 range. Drop to 4th and it's up around 3000-3400, but it is wonderful because it wants to climb to that 3700-4100 sweat spot while barely hitting the 40's for throttle %. Sometimes that requires a roll up to 70mph, but since going FI, it pulls like a train at 2800. 2500 down to 2300 is spotty based on terrain, and after 2300, despite holding speed, I'm downshifting because i don't like the calculated loads.

I know I've mentioned a few times the whole "just because it can, should it?" when it comes to FI powering through some less than ideal driving variables and it's hard for me to remember that towing is extreme duty and we want the oil flow, we want the coolant flow, we want RPM. Even NA, lugging with a 5.29 still feels lighter and is easier to pull out of and is a bit of a false sense of security. It really does change the entire experience for the better, though. The hardest part for me when I was NA was being okay with it above 4k on some big climbs, but that also was only in the 80-85% calculated load range where I could gain or drop speed as desired. that's high 2k and all of the 3k's now with the turbo, about the same loads and throttle %. You won't be upset or disappointed unless you're hoping for a huge MPG bump while towing. I have yet to see that, just lesser load values, which means less abuse and hopefully more years of service.

Given the transmission discussions of late, it'll be interesting to see if there ends up being a correlation between power, gearing and failures (or not). I regeared around 30k (IIRC), my fingers are crossed.

 

I’d be totally happy pulling in S5 at 2800 and having a full 5 ratios to work with. On a flat road with no headwinds maybe bump to S6. It should definitely reduce the load and strain getting up to speed on the truck, even if I don’t exactly feel the strain from the drivers seat.

 

My OCD combined with OBD Fusion has been a blessing and a curse. You'll see what I mean when you do your gears, and you should watch the calculated load if you haven't. It's interesting and informative. Anyways, aside from relearning your truck a little, having all of 5th gear available all the time is fantastic. 4th is the new 3rd when towing and "from stop" starts are wonderful once you learn the throttle and don't just chirp the tires. Having towed on Jesse's stock 16, I miss my truck. lol

 

4th being the new 3rd is definitely appealing for towing since TC lockup doesn’t happen until 4th. This means greater chance of having a locked TC on low speed switchback climbs that murder the trans temps with an unlocked TC.

 

Confirmed this afternoon, 5.29s on 33.4":

6th gear
2100rpm @70mph
2200rpm @75mph
I won't confirm nor deny the 100rpm/5mph is accurate throughout 6th gear.