Unlock not beeping correctly

Unlock does not beep with the first press of unlock on the remote. The driver door unlocks, but no beep/no lights flash. Beeps twice with second press of unlock when the remaining doors unlock.

Lock/unlock on all doors functions correctly regarding actuators. The issue is the lack of beeping/lights flashing when only the driver’s door unlocks on the first press. Any ideas?

I’ve searched the forum a bit, not finding anything this specific. Read quite a bit of the programming threads and PDFs but don’t see anything about this type of symptom. Maybe I missed something?

 

Change the battery. Weird stuff happens when the battery and subsequent transmit signal is low.

 

New battery in one remote. Not new battery in second remote. Same symptom with both remotes.

 

If it’s common to both remotes and they’re original, it might obviously be with the receiving circuit and how it processes the signal to trigger the buzzer and lights.

I wouldn’t know off the top of my head without looking at the electrical diagrams in the FSM. You may want to start there unless someone else is more knowledgeable here and can narrow it down for you.

Maybe a reset by disconnecting the truck battery for 15 minutes could help? Probably worth a shot in case the logic circuit is in a funky state.

 

Good thought, thx. I’ll try disconnecting the battery

 

It's a 20 year old truck. The locks work correctly. Beeps wouldn't even be a worry for me.

 

Do the park lights flash, but you get no beep? Or do you get no beep and no lights flashing?

 

No beep, no flash. Disconnected battery as a soft reset, no progress. Not a huge deal of course, but would prefer to get it fixed if it’s simple enough.

 

I see you have a DC. Programming-wise, do the RS3200 instructions work for entering programming mode, or do you need to use the other special instructions for DCs?

 

I had not got that far yet. I did read through the RS3200 pdf you supplied in the other threads, but have not played with it yet. Let me check it out

 

From the community megathread, "Electrical stuff ... and keys" section, pertinent text in red:

• For OEM keyless/security, earlier trucks used Toyota's RS3000 alarm/keyless system, which had a limit of 4 simultaneously programmed remotes, and providing no warnings if you wanted to program a 5th fob. Later models used the RS3200 system. RS3000 is a bitch to program. RS3200 is much easier, but some Double Cab and potentially Sequoia used immobilizer keys, and a different programming process than you may find elsewhere online. RS3000 and RS3200 remotes ARE NOT interchangeable. Manuals for the RS3000 and RS3200 systems can be found here, and the 'special' programming instructions for some Double Cab found here. Always enter programming mode to 'clear' all previously programmed remotes before trying to add new ones, so you don't hit the 4 remote control limit! You can absolutely program new remotes on your own, there's a thread about RS3000 units here (since it's so difficult but read the whole thread), RS3200 programming is here.

Some notes I'll add:

1. As you have a DC, your instructions will either be the special process in that last link, OR it will be what you find in the RS3200 manual.
2. Timing is everything - Timg your steps to be roughly 1 second apart for best results. I rarely get the sequence right the first time b/c I'm either rushing or miss a step. Just b/c it doesn't chirp back to signal it's in programming mode DOES NOT mean you used the wrong instructions, try it a few times with good cadence.
3. There was, I believe, a 3rd style of remote used with X-SP package trucks, and some other one-off packages from Gulf States Toyota (GST) and Southeast Toyota (SET), and some dealers who ported. A picture of the front and rear of the key fob will help isolate that, those remotes were wider and will have different programming instructions. That remote looks similar to this, much fatter, and with rectangular LED over on the side.

​

 

I confirmed my remote matches with the special instructions for double cabs. I got into the programming mode and selected the confirmation mode so as to not change anything. Two remotes are registered in the ECU, presumably the two I have since they both work.

Do you suggest clearing the remotes and adding them back?

 

I wouldn't.

I recommend you start by clicking on that 'community megathread' link I gave. Look around the 4th or 5th line from the start, there are a series of links. Click on the Service Manuals link. Click to download the FSM for your truck there, download a copy. Use the 'FIND' function inside the PDF, and search for the phrase BE-135

That will take you to full details for the factory security system on your truck, including the special programming instructions. It will also tell you what the expected function of the system is, so you can compare it to what you're experiencing currently. If you're confident the system is NOT working as described in there (since none of us can be there to verify), it may give you insight into how to resolve things.

All components of the system and their location can be seen in section BE-165 if you need help with that.

Testing of the system starts in section BE-159, which also includes how to start self-diagnostics in the system, how to test horn chirps, etc.

Inspection of physical components related to the hood and horn starts back in section BE-143 and BE-164.

Programming starts in section BE-153.

Sadly, I don't have the programming instructions for the DC system you have, which allows you to change functionality: Auto-arming, unlocking all doors vs. drivers door (etc.) which you'll find in the RS3200 system. Maybe it's the same? I'm not sure where to look. I'm still a bit confused/lost on what the difference is between DC using the BCM (I think) such as yours, and trucks like mine of the same year which use TVIP system (RS3x000), with regard to programming and so-on.

 

I am amazed at the depth of knowledge. Thank you. I will look around all the sections of the FSM you suggested. Thank you for your help!