You all probably gonna laugh at me........2005 Tundra

No, he's an idiot and I've talked to him enough. He told me the truck was in great shape and it just stopped running. I took him at his word which was my first mistake. This is what happens when you buy something "sight unseen" . I've done it a couple times, and get screwed everytime. You would think I've learned by now, but here we are! I'll be alright, and I will come out on top of this. As nasty and ragged out this truck is, i like the truck, so that helps my going forward.

 

Your still making me laugh. You are right again.

 

I laughed at this, not the truck. I'm glad it's working out better than expected.

 

Make sure the pump actually pumps. I don't like aftermarket pumps in these trucks. Denso, Denso, Denso.

It is possible it's the original timing belt, you'll probably know when you see it. You really don't want to try to get it to fire if so. Just making sure the belt is intact is pretty crucial. I wouldn't even bump the truck over without checking the belt for cracks, unless you want to replace the engine next. It's a low-interference engine, maybe you'd get lucky if the belt snapped, but why try. Absence of a belt, or a loose/snapped belt would tell you exactly why the truck was torn apart: The guy knew damn well snapping the timing belt is a 50/50 death sentence.

Actually, checking the timing belt would've been the 1st thing I did, before I ordered the first part. It's so integral to the operation of the truck and integrity of the motor that it would've been the litmus for me to decide if I wanted to proceed. And if it was OK, I'd verify the timing using this website as a guide, and THEN is when I'd be installing injectors (which will liven up the motor), cleaning/replacing the MAF with genuine Hitachi MAF (that was what OEM was), cleaning up the throttle body, plugs, and whatever other odds and ends you need to fire it up.

 

Yes, I would have serious concerns about firing this truck up prior to checking the belt condition just based on the info in this thread. The PO obviously was negligent. I wouldn't take anything for granted regardless if I had a friend as a parts source.

 

yeah, your right, I'll do that tomorrow. I'll check the status of the belt. I've only ordered a starter for this motor, which i could send back, if need be. Have you ever heard a timing belt going 299k ? it's had to have been changed , at least once.

 

We’ve had people make that claim, 300k on the original. We’ve also had people show up with 250k, original owners, claiming original belt. The OEM equipment was solid.

 

Yes, we have heard of the belts going that long, so I wouldn't recommend assuming anything. If you discover it needs changed, pay particular attention to the cam position sensor wiring routing. Misrouting it is what bites many owners in the ass.

 

I went out first this this morning and removed the drivers side cam cover. This is what I found.Ain't looking good for the home team. What's my next move? Is there a way to see if engine imploded without a complete teardown? Or should I just look for another engine?

 

Ohhhhh F!

 

Gotta get the heads off and see if it played whack a valve. You could still get lucky if it wasn't turned over

 

Id get a cheap bore scope, snake it around the plug holes and take a look at the pistons and valves. A lot less work than pulling the heads.

 

so this being an interference engine, the valves are the only thing that could be damaged? Or is there something else that could of took a hit??? And pistons of course?

 

Damn man ; sorry about this. Further confirmation that the previous owner is a POS for misleading someone like this

 

The valves can be bent, the pistons can be scarred, cracked or broken. The rods can also be bent, which can in turn damage the crank as well. Most common is bent valves and scarred pistons. Bent valves won’t operate properly and cause loss of compression. Scarred pistons can get hot spots at the damaged areas and lead to cracking and breakage of the pistons. Could also cause scarring of the cylinder walls if any material breaks loose.

 

/\/\ that.
Man this whole shit has me ready to break some knee caps and I didn't even buy it.

 

Also wanna add, and we stress this constantly. When buying a Tundra of unknown history and especially one that doesn’t run, three things are paramount to know before driving.
1. condition of timing belt including age, brand and appearance
2. Condition of lower ball joints including age, brand and appearance.
3. Condition of frame including presence of rust, where and how much.

wasting money on the truck before checking on number. 1 and 3 is just, well, wasting money. Driving it before doing number 1 and 2 is asking for disaster. The community “so you just bought / wanna buy a first gen” thread is absolute gold for any prospective or current FGT owner. Another big thanks to @shifty` for organizing all of that knowledge into one place.

 

No kidding. That's pretty ballzy considering you have no idea if the person you are F-ing over is already living on the edge, with nothing to lose, and is going to show up at your doorstep with a whole barrel of whoop ass... or gasoline

 

I just called him and told him what I've found. He said he don't understand but he offered to give me back $1000. we'll see if that happens. He said he needs 2 weeks. I told him I was gonna bring the truck back to him, That's when he offered the 1k. I don't expect it but it would be nice. This would be the time when one of you tell me I need to back up and punt!!!

 

So, that aside, do you have means of getting parts easily? As in, general availability? I am not 1st Gen expert, but that engine worries me, and if you can't get a used engine easy and close, I am not sure if it is worth it to keep at it.
If you have the means and also ability to fix it, it will be hella job but outcome I think will be very rewarding....

 

nice!!!

 

This is the most likely reason it wont turn over, there are valves touching a piston, so the piston cant get back to TDC to allow the engine to roll over. The new starter you bought wont do anything. You would be smart to get a bore scope and look and see what the insides of the cylinders look like, you might get lucky and roll the cam gear back and get the valves off the piston and then be able to manually roll the engine over to confirm its not locked up. You might get super lucky and put it back in time, put a belt on it, prime the oil up and it fire right up. AND you might also get unlucky and have a boat anchor.

 

I wouldn't spend any more time on a truck with 300k miles, unless one of the two Tundras your buddy is getting in is a low mileage wreck with a good engine... Even then, I'd personally still pass with all the issues you've already found.

Fingers crossed you get some $ back from that pos who sold you the truck but I wouldn't hold my breath...

 

Reality? Since everyone is tossing in thoughts.

Timing belt isn't a ton of $$$ to buy, it's just time to install and get the timing right, and see what you're up against. We've had people pop a timing belt in this very forum and the engine survived enough to operate.

If for nothing more than shits and giggles, I'd be tempted to get a timing belt and new tensioner (since rewinding the old one is tedious and you don't know its state, if it caused the snap) and install it. If you're ONLY installing the belt ant tensioner, you're only looking at 3-4 hours work, IMHO, to pop on the new belt and tensioner then set correct timing (use that thread I gave as a reference), and see if it runs. And that may save you a solid thousand or two on an engine.

Given you have no f'ing clue how many times someone tried to turn it over or what they did, there's a solid chance the engine is toast and if it does run, it won't function properly. But miracles happen, and if I were dropping money into anything, knowing you could simply pull those parts back off afterward and use for your next t-belt change, it seems like a no-brainer. You don't even need to use Aisin brand parts (OEM), you can use the cheapest you can find if only to test, knowing you'll want to change everything later. There's also a chance it runs, and runs properly, if the engine wasn't turned over excessively while the cams weren't moving.

That said, if you need and/or want to just forgo all the BS and swap a new engine in, there are some tidbits you need to know. Consult with the forum before you go that route. For trucks 00-04 you need to stick with 04 or earlier motor. On many of the earlier years, there are pins to swap over for the throttle body assembly, if I recall, which will give you grief unless you swap your throttle body assembly over and use your truck's harness. On the 05-06 you just shop in the same year range, it's pretty cut and dry, but if you're pulling the donor engine from a Sequoia '05-'07, there are considerations there too ...

Anyway, yeah, this is why I was warning you about checking the timing belt very, very early on in this thread. It's the one thing that would motivate someone to sell in a no-run condition, where they could feel safe to claim ignorance later.

 

Return it to the guy, then set it on fire. Just so he can't screw someone else over.

 

but he already put nice seats in it

 

If you do return it to him, note the issue with a paint pen on the timing cover in tough to reach, but easy to spot location. Good samaritans have saved me time at a junk yard repeatedly.

 

This x2.

 

I was an auction buyer for many years. One day I was looking at an Explorer and when I retracted the sunroof sunshade it had "RUN!" written on the inside of the glass I heeded their warning.