Wheel fitment help!

I just bought a 2004 double cab today and drove it from nc to md, I want to order a set of method 703 wheels for the truck but am concerned about fitment with calipers. Does anybody know if the 16” wheels will fit? Not sure if the truck has 13wl calipers or what but I read somewhere that 2004 does have those

 

Before you make another move, please, do yourself a favor, read this thread: https://www.tundras.com/threads/so-you-wanna-buy-just-bought-a-1st-gen-tundra-eh.115928/

It literally answers that question AND tells you the far more important things you need to know ASAP!

 

I did read through it, I clicked on the link that talked about the 13wl calipers and I saw that some 16” wheels work and some don’t, figured I’d ask about these specific wheels here

 

Shifty brings a good point, there are a couple of maintenance items I would spend the money on before wheels for sure. And before you buy wheels, consider their offset in regards to where your tires may end up rubbing

But... your 2004 DC should definitely have 13WL calipers. But yes, they should clear even though it will be pretty tight. My main wheels are 16" 305s, but I have a spare that is a 16" 703 and it clears as well.

 

What maintenance items do you recommend ? Truck just had the timing belt and water pump done, it was owned by a 70yr old preacher who seems to have taken very good care of the truck

 

Read the thread I linked. We as a community spent hundreds of hours compiling that info. It tells you everything any new owner must know. Wheel fitment. Major maintenance items. What typically kills these trucks. Brake and wheel compatibility issues. The whole 9 yards. Come back here and ask up if you feel your questions aren’t answered by that thread and we will update it or clarify the answer in that thread already.

 

Good to hear that the timing belt was done. OEM ball joints and studs for them should be a big ticket item, but I'm sure you read up on them. A set of LBJs should be less than one Method wheel is; if an LBJ goes out you're out the cost of the LBJ and the other damage, then the cost of the wheel if it gets caught in the damage. Front/rear diff fluids, transfer case fluid, drive line grease.

16" vs 17" wheels too are something to consider if you're finding the brakes lackluster. The cheaper big brake upgrade is only doable with 17" wheels, otherwise your front brake upgrade option starts at $2,200.

 

Radiator is another one. I did mine the same time as the timing belt as you dump a lot of coolant doing the timing belt anyway. If the plastic at the top of the radiator is turning a brown color rather than being black, it's probably time. Good news is its an easy and fairly cheap exercise.
And lower ball joints. Just did mine today actually.

 

This may help. Search for your year truck and find what others have done.

https://www.customwheeloffset.com/w...g=No+Trimming&rubbing=No+rubbing+or+scrubbing

 

I’ll go ahead and order lbjs, the guy I bought it from had the radiator done with the tbelt and water pump

 

If I were buying new wheels today, I would 100% buy 17” wheels. 16s have less choices for tire sizes and can be more expensive for the one you want. Also, 17” tires are always popping up on marketplace in the popular sizes for cheap if you get in a bind.

 

Agree
17" wheels are way more common these days, and the tires are pretty cheap in 17"

Back in 2004 i was building a mini-truck and at the time 20" wheels had practically just came out. The wheels i wanted were available in 18-19-20 but the cost of 20" wheels was way out of this world so i bought the 19s cause they were a bit cheaper.
I soon figured out, while the wheel was cheaper the tires were WAY HIGHER. Back then even though 20s were new, i could have bought (2) 20" tires for what i had to pay for (1) 19" tire.
Dont just buy 16s cause they might be a few bucks cheaper, think about the whole thing and price the wheels and tires. Dont make a rookie mistake like me.....

 

20s came out in the late 90s, a kid I was in high school with had 20s stuffed under his 97 civic coupe in 99.

To the op, 16s limit too much. Big brakes don’t work with them and the tires are much more limited.

 

The internet says you're right, Houston in 1998 seems to be the general consensus, first set installed on a Houston Oilers players car. i live in a small town in the Mississippi Delta, the first set i saw was on a maroon Caprice in 2002/2003 i believe. We are certainly a few years behind everyone else here. Moral of the story is still, check into the wheel AND tire price, buying an off size might be more costly than its worth.

 

I was actually looking at those Method 703 models in Machined Clear Coat finish.
The size they list is - 17" x 8.5"
Bolt Pattern - 6 x 5.5
Offset Spacing - 0 / 4.8"

I'm clueless on wheel offsets, and curious how close that would be to the factory Toyota 17" Split 5-Spoke wheels.
It'd suck to spend all that money buying a new set, only to have a 'surprise' cause you didn't do your research.

 

Ideal backspacing is closer to 4.5” - 4.6”at that width or 9” width. OEM five spoke splits are 5” backspace FYI.

 

I just sold a set of BFG AT 265/70/17 tires with over 11/32 tread today for what I consider a good price on FB Market. So, yeah I agree.