What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

I don't. Like many others here, sometimes the places I'm trying to get to - for hunting, hiking, camping - are down some crazy roads. But I'm not seeking out hardcore trails. I had General Spring HDs on my Tacoma and did about as crazy roads as I'll ever do, down in southern Utah, and didn't have any issues, so I expect the ATS springs will be just fine.

 

Today I drained my transfer case fluid. I have not refilled it yet because I found two identical plugs, isn’t the lower one supposed to have a magnet? Didn’t want to waste more time under here searching the Internet so I thought I’d just ask

 

The transfer case is not equipped with a magnetic drain plug. Thus, the drain and fill plugs along with the crush washers are the same part #s for both.

The front and rear diffs have magnetic drain plugs.

 

Awesome thank you!

 

The 10mm Allen I bought was too long to open the front diff so I didn’t get to that today. Transfer case fluid looked great, found old markings dating the last change at 22k ago so probably unnecessary but I already had the oil. I don’t have any frame of reference for what the rear fluid usually looks like, but it sure seemed sparkly to me. Had a decent little puck of metal dust on the magnet with a few small larger bits. The bolts were rounded so I know it’s been changed at least once before, should I be worried?

 

Color-wise it looks almost identical to my front diff fluid, which I believe (in all likeliness) had never been changed in the truck's lifetime, which was only around 72k miles then IIRC.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/wha...-gen-tundra-today.2558/page-1549#post-3084622

I show all 3 in that reply. Magnet smears are in the reply after that, both of mine had a good bit of sludge with mild glitter. My TC looked almost as if it had brand new fluid in it. I assume it's typical for unchanged front diff fluid, or maybe the PO never really engaged 4WD much? Front diff fluid had to've gotten that way ... somehow. I have yet to find someone with a 4WD, low-mile, front diff fluid never changed in order to compare.

 

Next time it'll look better. Differentials seem pretty strong, you've really got to abuse them, or abuse them in very specific ways, to cause real issues. That is a lot of metal shavings, but I've always heard that generally if there's no "chunks", you're in good shape.

T-case looking brand new seems common. I changed mine, and it hadn't been done for something like 70 or more thousands miles. Looked brand new.

 

The dirty rear diff fluid is sort of unusual IF it’s the 2nd time changing. Looks a lot like my first and I bought mine new. 75k miles and 3 years later it looked like that with some magnetic metal residue. However the fluid wasn’t shiny with specs of metal on it. Seems like you have more than I did.

All subsequent changes have been relatively clean fluid for the rear diff at 150k and 225k miles. It makes me wonder if Toyota put some type of conditioners in the fluid for first time use to get that dirty.

 

Rear diff fluid gets beat on the most. Always funky and dirty when I change mine, granted I only change it every 75k miles or so with full synth stuff (no LSD). I tow a lot though. And heavy.

 

Installed Hewitt SAI bypass, hoping to fix a cold start noise I've posted about. Didn't fix the noise, but still glad it's done. Went in pretty easy.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/cold-start-noise-sai-issue.151613/#post-3788152

 

Is it a squealing sound during cold starts? i.e. this TSB?

I know there was a similar TSB for 2000-2005 Sequoia. I don't recall seeing it for the 2006-2007 Sequoia, but if it also impacts the 2005-2006 Tundra which shares the SAI system with your '07 tree, maybe it's also impacting yours.

Removing the serp belt from the harmonic balancer during a cold start would tell you real quick if the sound is coming from the accessory drive belt or not...

Anyway, that TSB is one of the many added into the community megathread, 2nd reply.

 

I'm aware of that TSB. Actually dealt with that on my truck years ago in getting the new AC bracket and tensioner. I'm fairly confident that the noises I'm dealing with are not serpentine belt related, but yeah not certain. I do have some minor belt squeal/squeaks from the belt, so digging into that next. Just got new bando belt in mail last night.

your "remove belt from HB" comment- you just mean take it off the main pulley while leaving it in place? Belt looks a little weathered and I can't confirm it's age/mileage so it's getting replaced regardless.

I've referenced your first gen thread many time, thank you for that! Very helpful!

 

When ive done mine I have more sludge, less metal particles. I do mine every 15k. Is that metal in the pan from other services? Or all from your rear diff?

 

The tent of pain returns!

 

Hand me downs...

 

Carport, thank you

 

Yes. It's safe to run the engine for a couple of minutes without having the serp belt attached. Typically what I'd do in your situation is essentially fully pull off the serp belt (if worn, I'd have a replacement in-hand), spin each pulley (including alternator, PS, tensioner pulley, and fan clutch) by hand to check for roughness/free-spinning/noise/wiggle for play, and if all seem OK, I'd fire up the engine and see if I hear the squeal. If no noise, you 100% know it's either the belt, or something the serpentine belt is engaging with. Put the new belt on, if it continues at the next dead-cold start, then it definitely wasn't the belt. Of course, you won't try to spin the harmonic balancer/crank pulley. But to that point, some say you don't need to disconnect the belt, just release tension in a way that the crank won't engage it.

Things only get difficult if all bearings test out OK, and you have a new belt on, but the squealing continues.

Based on what we've been seeing a lot of cases of at this age, it wouldn't surprise me if it turns out to be the fan clutch bracket. Not the clutch or fan, but the bracket itself is loaded with a bearing, and for wahtever reason, we've been seeing a lot of age-out style failures these past two years, and I don't recall seeing a ton during the first couple years I was on this forum and FB groups.

 

Mine was one of those, 290k, wobble wobble

 

You sold the cap?

 

The Carport of Carnage.

 

230,000 miles, during timing belt job, mechanic recommended replacing mine. "Not bad, but starting to have movement, and I have it in my hand right now so.."

 

I wouldn't be overly concerned; not unusual. I'd just run it for several miles, then change it again to optimize cleanliness.

I see you've started a good looking family, Noah. Happy for you

 

Yeah it's been a minute since then, but yeah...

 

I've been VERY blessed over your absence, and you have some catching up to do


Happy HAPpy HAPPY <3

 

I'm not sure how to take that...
I kid. I'm trying. The truck sat for an extended period and I'm now in the process of finishing it to what I originally envisioned so I can move on to my next project.

Following-up on SPC ubj subject, per SPC, ubj p/n 35101 is not convertible. These are sealed units and will not accept a zerk.

 

Take it as you've been out of the loop for a whole grip. That's all, no shade intended

Cheers

 

I know, just messing with you.

 

Wheels n tires. LT265/70R17 Yokohama Geolander AT4s on @FNWheels Overland Spec Bs in Graphite.

30 miles so far, which isn't near enough but it's safe to say they are a vast improvement in ride quality, noise, and braking/acceleration over the KO2s in LT285/75/R16 (May list Raceline Assaults and KO2s here soon). Obviously not a totally fair comparison given the size, weight, and age differences, and that the KO2s were starting to cup.