1. Welcome to Tundras.com!

    You are currently viewing as a guest! To get full-access, you need to register for a FREE account.

    As a registered member, you’ll be able to:
    • Participate in all Tundra discussion topics
    • Transfer over your build thread from a different forum to this one
    • Communicate privately with other Tundra owners from around the world
    • Post your own photos in our Members Gallery
    • Access all special features of the site

Transmission heat exchanger line leak

Discussion in '1st Gen Tundras (2000-2006)' started by Rice-K, Dec 8, 2024.

  1. Dec 8, 2024 at 2:06 PM
    #1
    Rice-K

    Rice-K [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 26, 2024
    Member:
    #120403
    Messages:
    9
    Gender:
    Male
    Vehicle:
    2001 AC 2wd
    Was doing oil change (2000 v8 DC 2wd) today and noticed a dripping on one of the trans heat exchanger line (bottom of radiator, drivers side). No pink milkshakes from where I can tell and transmission is working fine.
    Trying to find knowledge on this issue. Has this happened to you? What’s the fix/next steps.
    Thanks!
     
  2. Dec 8, 2024 at 2:14 PM
    #2
    Johnsonman

    Johnsonman New Member

    Joined:
    Nov 25, 2019
    Member:
    #39132
    Messages:
    1,620
    Gender:
    Male
    Austin
    Vehicle:
    Sequoia
    LED headlamps/fogs; interior footlamps.
    What is the age of the radiator? (although it does look newish in the pic). If over 10yrs or brownish at top I would replace. Could try snugging it up a hair yet I do not know if that is a good idea.
     
  3. Dec 8, 2024 at 2:32 PM
    #3
    shifty`

    shifty` Just like witches at black masses

    Joined:
    Jun 20, 2020
    Member:
    #48239
    Messages:
    28,344
    ATL
    Vehicle:
    '06 AC Limited V8/4WD
    (see signature for truck info)
    Those fittings are notorious for going bad, and as you know, resulting in pink milkshake. If you want insurance, you should be replacing the radiator with the timing belt/water pump/tensioner/pulleys every 100k miles/10 years.

    More info on radiator situation is one of many topics over here, the thread I'm linking is a good community-created jumping-off point to get to know your truck.
     
  4. Dec 8, 2024 at 3:15 PM
    #4
    Rice-K

    Rice-K [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 26, 2024
    Member:
    #120403
    Messages:
    9
    Gender:
    Male
    Vehicle:
    2001 AC 2wd
    Edit:
    The radiator looks like it was replaced by the previous owner, the only record I can find it was done in 2009. The top is not brown which I assume means the radiator wasn’t overheated before
     
    Last edited: Dec 8, 2024
  5. Dec 8, 2024 at 4:52 PM
    #5
    shifty`

    shifty` Just like witches at black masses

    Joined:
    Jun 20, 2020
    Member:
    #48239
    Messages:
    28,344
    ATL
    Vehicle:
    '06 AC Limited V8/4WD
    (see signature for truck info)
    Timing belt, radiator, and non-OEM LBJ (or reusing LBJ hardware) are the top killers of these trucks. It appears from your pics that the trans cooler line fittings in the radiator have failed. Up to you on how you want to handle. Brand new OEM (Denso) radiator is around $130 from RockAuto, which seems to be one of the only online stores that knows how to ship without damaging 99% of the time. Just make sure you order for the correct cab type.

    I’d go that route unless you have evidence to the contrary, i.e. it’s not the fitting leaking. I’m a firm believer in “never trust your PO to make the right parts choices unless you have clear evidence they chose wisely”. A lot of people proactively change the known-problematic parts if they don’t have proof the owner chose quality brands, or non-aftermarket. The sad reality is, aftermarket part quality has gone down the shitter in the last 10-15 years, and the service schedule Toyota provides for our trucks is ONLY valid if you use genuine OEM parts. Like, aftermarket LBJ? That’ll last you 5k-50k miles versus OEM that run 100-125k. Timing belt, same story. Radiator, same story.
     
  6. Dec 8, 2024 at 5:23 PM
    #6
    Rice-K

    Rice-K [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 26, 2024
    Member:
    #120403
    Messages:
    9
    Gender:
    Male
    Vehicle:
    2001 AC 2wd
    Yeah, I'd rather do this before the strawberry milkshake was served. I believe DENSO 2210517 is the right one for any 1st gen that has the 4.7 (at least that's what RockAuto's filter told me)
     
  7. Dec 8, 2024 at 6:18 PM
    #7
    shifty`

    shifty` Just like witches at black masses

    Joined:
    Jun 20, 2020
    Member:
    #48239
    Messages:
    28,344
    ATL
    Vehicle:
    '06 AC Limited V8/4WD
    (see signature for truck info)
    There’s a double cab model and “w/o double cab”.

    Look up your part number at www.densoautoparts.com - never trust an auto parts store to tell you which Denso part is correct.
     
  8. Dec 9, 2024 at 4:47 AM
    #8
    tvpierce

    tvpierce Formerly New Member

    Joined:
    May 6, 2019
    Member:
    #30129
    Messages:
    1,437
    Maine
    Vehicle:
    2000 Tundra AC SR5 4WD, 4.7 Automatic
    I posted this in what appears to be a duplicate by the OP.

    Reposting here to include the pics:

    Replace the radiator -- I'd advise doing it right away. You can get one from Rock Auto for about $120. These pics show the heat exchanger and the connections on both sides. This truck suffered a pink milkshake. See the crusty pink deposits on the one end? That's likely what's causing your leak. If the oxidation is sufficient enough to cause expansion, the inner o-ring will not seal properly.
    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Dec 10, 2024
  9. Dec 9, 2024 at 2:24 PM
    #9
    bfunke

    bfunke Tundra Curmudgeon

    Joined:
    Oct 13, 2019
    Member:
    #37321
    Messages:
    2,396
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Bryan
    South Carolina
    Vehicle:
    2018 SR-5 CM 5.7, 2000 SR-5 AC 4.7L
    And there is no way to replace the inner o-ring short of removing the tank.
     
  10. Dec 9, 2024 at 8:25 PM
    #10
    whodatschrome

    whodatschrome New Member

    Joined:
    Sep 13, 2023
    Member:
    #103882
    Messages:
    1,774
    Gender:
    Male
    North of North Plains, Oregon
    Vehicle:
    2000 Tundra 4wd AC, 2004 Tundra AC 2wd to 4wd conversion ABS delete
    lots of dents
    A quick temporary fix (that could lead to a long term fix) is to completely bypass the radiator by joining the two tranny lines together with a doubled ended 1/4” barbed fitting (i’m just guessing a 1/4”. It might be 5/16” or 3/8”).
     
  11. Dec 14, 2024 at 1:43 PM
    #11
    Rice-K

    Rice-K [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 26, 2024
    Member:
    #120403
    Messages:
    9
    Gender:
    Male
    Vehicle:
    2001 AC 2wd
    Update here: new Denso unit installed
     
    Last edited: Dec 14, 2024
  12. Dec 15, 2024 at 3:28 AM
    #12
    tvpierce

    tvpierce Formerly New Member

    Joined:
    May 6, 2019
    Member:
    #30129
    Messages:
    1,437
    Maine
    Vehicle:
    2000 Tundra AC SR5 4WD, 4.7 Automatic
    Before you throw out the old radiator, it would be interesting to see some pics of the fitting that was leaking.
     
  13. Dec 15, 2024 at 4:53 AM
    #13
    bfunke

    bfunke Tundra Curmudgeon

    Joined:
    Oct 13, 2019
    Member:
    #37321
    Messages:
    2,396
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Bryan
    South Carolina
    Vehicle:
    2018 SR-5 CM 5.7, 2000 SR-5 AC 4.7L
    Mini-Storage workshop - that’s a new concept.
     
  14. Dec 15, 2024 at 6:45 AM
    #14
    Rice-K

    Rice-K [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 26, 2024
    Member:
    #120403
    Messages:
    9
    Gender:
    Male
    Vehicle:
    2001 AC 2wd
    Too late, it's in the dumpster already. The pic u posted above is pretty much my best guess, either some coolant crust in the threads or a failed internal o-ring
     

Products Discussed in

To Top