Chico: 06 frame swap/super-mega rebuild

Thanks man! It was a lot of stepping back to think about the next step... The hardest part was being patient while piling up parts and finding the time.

My wife is pretty strong and capable, definitely not as strong as me, but quite possibly tougher. We removed the bed on our tacoma a couple of times and this was a lot harder and heavier... but doable for sure. Having a plan for where it's going helps. Navigating around the filler neck is the trickiest part. FWIW, when putting it back on we used the engine hoist with some ropes through the tie down points to level it out, and I think just two-man picking it up was easier and smoother.

 

Haha I think I was having to hold them off from going hard on the beers at that point. I was worried if we started drinking somebody would end up smashed under the cab.

 

That's usually why I'm double fisting beers. So it'll hurt less when the cab falls on me.

 

ATS 90-221HD leaf packs gave me almost dead-nuts 2" over stock height.

$500 after tax for two (universal) leaf packs, shipped to my door. https://www.autoandtrucksprings.com...vy-duty-rear-leaf-spring-both-sides-90-221hd/

I also have an access cab V8 4WD. The general spectrum of lift folks have gotten from this exact same HD leaf pack is 1.5"-2", independent of cab. Haven't seen anyone get any more nor any less than that range.

 

Not bad. 4 leaf pack with overload? Any idea if these are by chance the same as the HD leafs from general spring KC? They have same part number (90-221HD) and price.

 

Considering ATS makes the springs in-house from their warehouse of misc leafs, they're the likely source for GS KC.

ATS used to make the same part for Dorman as well, based on digging I'd done prior to purchase.

And yes, 4 pack with overload. Lemme grab you some pics.

 

So how did you end up determining which length of rear shock to go with the new rear lift springs?...and what length did you end up using?

 

I picked up my 5100s rears from Toytec, Bilstein p/n F4-BE5-C478-T0 which I think is Bilstein 24-186728, Toytec also sells as part of their RCD lift kit.

They're good for 0-1" lift, which I assumed would be enough for me, and maybe is enough from stock? I haven't noticed any issues (yet) despite lifting closer to 2".

 

I think issues would only arise if overextending at full droop, yes?

 

That would be logical, and I definitely had it there at one or two points while swapping out leaf packs b/c my dumbass forgot to loosen lower shock mount. Though realistically, I'm not sure how much repeated pounding it'd take to cause damage.

 

This is bad to admit, but I have been running stock length KYBs on the rear of my Tacoma with probably 3+ inches of lift for several years with no issue. I'm definitely not running any tough trails. Only put them on because I needed something to get me out of a bind that day and they were cheap and available right away. Figured I run them til they blew and they never did.

 

A busy fall and winter has kept me from making posting here a priority, but thought I'd share some updates, in case anyone has any interest.

The truck has over 5000 miles since the frame swap and has been my main driver most of that time, mostly trouble free. I think it's finally at the point where I can/have started doing mods for comfort/fun as opposed to tracking down little quirks from the swap.

Since the last post:

-replaced wheel bearings and seals
-replaced CVs
-diff leak and seals many times
-leveled the rear
-painted some shit black
-installed some aftermarket seat heaters
-finished up my headache rack, mostly

Biggest frustration and triumph from the last few months was tracking down a leak at the passenger side of my diff where it meets the cv axle. I replaced the axles early in winter, along with new seals, but could never get the passenger side to stop leaking profusely. I must've disassembled and reassembled that shit at least 15 times. At one point I even replaced the bearing that the inner shaft rides on, thinking that must be going bad and allowing fluid by or something. I was really stumped and eventually I just resigned myself to the fact that it was gonna leak and let it, figuring I'd replace the whole diff if it blew up, which it never did. With help from here, I finally realized that I simply needed to set the seal at the outer edge of the diff tube, as opposed to the inside, and it hasn't leaked since.

Inner shaft bearing replacement:

 

Wheel bearings were pretty easy, if I recall correctly, I was able to press everything out and back in in less than an hour. Having a press at work and a balljoint set was really helpful. The old bearings were screaming and one of them fell apart upon removal of the seal.





Installing the new CVs. Initially, I was planning to do the extended CVs or rebuild my oems with high angle boots, but got this set super cheap from the RA, like 25 an axle, so decided to run it. One has a torn boot again already, the other seems to be holding up. I'll revisit this at some point.

 

After installing a basic rough country lift kit on my brother in laws' tacoma at Christmas, I decided to just get some cheap blocks to level out my rear and hold me over until I can afford to go for an HD pack or have the time to build a bastard pack out of the stuff I have laying around. Got a 1.5" block for like 30 shipped and had them installed in less than half an hour start to finish. Already had some u bolts and wheelers universal bumps lying around. Eventually I'd love to revisit the whole suspension and go with a decent coilover, arms, and rear packs, but as it sits it's fine and it meets the all important budget.

Here's how it sits as of today:

 

Also recently got my headache rack mostly finished up. I'd still love add some mesh to protect the windows, and maybe build in a space for some work lights, but maybe down the road. I've also been looking for shells so we'll see how long I stick with this setup. I built it in a pinch as I needed to haul some 20 ft lumber at the time.

The design is such that the rear rack can be removed and stowed when it's not needed. I'd love to a bar over the roof as well, currently I've got got a temporary setup for long material that leaves some to be desired. Something purpose built would be better. I have some tracks from a 4runner laying around, but am hesitant to do what's needed to install those. May go inno down the line.

Here is the rack. Made this with schedule 40 pipe I pulled out of the dumpster for the most part.

 

Finally, I recently did a looks-good-from-10ft blackout of the grill, bumper trim, and mirrors. Never been great with paint work, but oh well. Mirrors are dip and I'd love to get a pro style grille and coastal bumper, one day.





Looking forward there's a long list of things that I'd like to do, but realistically, the next things will most likely be sound deadening, and stereo, which seems like kind of a pain in the ass on these trucks. Currently running a fm transmitter and it's not great.

Also have a steering shaft seal to see if that gets rid of the exhaust like noise I'm hearing, but I'm likely going to have to replace the rag joint at the same time, as the shaft and that are kinda cruddy, so holding off on that one. Then maybe strip and paint my lower rockers to stave off rust.

In the meantime, my tacoma is garaged for a refresh and my wife's subaru needs new suspension bad, so the tundra may be staying the same for awhile.

 

Last post for now - just to show that it actually leaves the driveway here is a pic of the rack in use awhile back.

 

I just read through the whole thread. Nice truck! Sure seems like it has been one hell of a project.

 

Thanks man! It's been a lot of work, but also a lot of fun.

 

Well I've been looking for a cap for the truck for awhile. Last week I was doing my daily scrolling of my wife's marketplace, and I came across one for $100. It was 5 hours away and there was only one bad picture, so I ignored it. Then saw @The Black Mamba post it up in the first gen camper shells thread and now it was free... so I checked it out and the seller seemed legit. Talked to my wife and it was on the way to her folks place, so we decided to go for it and make it a weekend. Seller held it for us and was super cool and kind. She was military, moving to a different city, and had sold her truck and just wanted the cap gone. It's a Leer 100xl with all windows in good shape. Needs new struts and new seals on the rear window, but I'd say it was a great deal at the low low price of free. Also has racks on top which is a must for me, and I don't actually mind the red.

Hoping to fix the little things and build a removable platform and low-pro bedslide. Anyway, enough words:



Also, the truck did great on the 14 hour round trip. Super happy with it.

 

Free with racks and all the windows is big time score! Great job on the rescue overall. Read back through it again just now.

 

Infuriating that bums can camp in the street with bags of trash and human waste but you cannot do something on YOUR OWN property! I thought that behavior has stopped, around here now a junk car will sit on the road forever?
Kudos to your effort!

 

Many thanks! I don't want to get real far into my great displeasure with the local government(s), but the limits to what you can do on your own property are certainly very frustrating. It is what it is, I guess.

 

Keeps your neighbors from stacking 2 or 3 Altima parts cars on blocks surrounded by weeds and empty coolant jugs. Unfortunately the sword of reason often swings wide and catches the ones that are not trying to take advantage of a situation. At least they gave you a weeks notice. I am not a fan of HOA rules and choose not to live in those neighborhoods, or even within city limits for that matter.

 

Yeah that's true, and I know code is ostensibly there to protect us from the worst. I can't pretend that dismantled vehicles in font of the house are an addition to the neighborhood, even if they're cool ones. Hopefully in the next few years we'll have some land and a pole barn to remedy the issue.

 

It's been a good while since I gave an update. Since the initial frame swap I've got about 15,000 trouble free miles on it. My wife and I just bought a small farm in a rural area farther from work, so I will be both adding a lot more miles as I commute further, and working the truck pretty hard. A lot of little stuff done to the truck and a few bigger maintenance items.

Little stuff I can remember:
- finally installed the stereo that came with the truck
- semi custom speaker fitment of some 6x9s I had lying around
- blind spot mirror things
- phone mount
- etc etc little stuff who cares

Bigger stuff:
- replaced front spacer lift with 5100s and OME 2885s. Lowered the front about half an inch. Ride quality greatly improved.
- replaced moog LBJs (gasp!) with OEM Toyota kit and new bolts
- this threw my (very badly done) alignment way out and made the truck dangerously undriveable, so I spent an afternoon feverishly doing my own and realigned the steering wheel while I was at it
- it still isn't great, but it's better than it ever was before
- after hydroplaning/fishtailing around a highway interchange ramp in light rain, I decided that it really was indeed time to replace my worn (2/32 remaining) BFG KO2s. I also decided that I should also give up on finding a good used set and just probably get new. Ended up with a Discount Tire house brand "Rocky Mountain All Terrain". I downsized to a 265/75/16 E rated from a 285/75/16 E rated. I'm not super into the no name tires but I needed em bad, they had to order Falkens and Toyos, and they were $700 out the door. So far I've got maybe 1200 miles on them and they seem good. Plenty of snow here and they have performed well, they ride a lot smoother and quieter, and engine RPMs have dropped a little around town. MPG has actually gone down (it's terrible!), but that could also be winter and winter fuel blend. I definitely like the look a bit less though.
- new 7 pin/4pin trailer wiring plug, maybe more on this below...
- installed tekonsha brake evn brake controller

I picked up an old 7k tilt utility trailer that was going out of service at work, and have been towing that around some. We built some sides onto and used it to haul a fairly heavy load during the move. All loaded up, the truck hauled it well at 55mph with the OD off. But boyyyyy do I need some of those ATS HD springs. Or maybe even the archive garage heavies, now that I will be hauling more frequently. Or maybe, if I have the time at some point, I'll throw in some scavenged junkyard leaves I've been kicking around. But basically, it's riding on the bumps loaded down.

Anyway, here's some photos, since that's what I always like to see myself...


truck in the shop at work, old tires




New tires, unloaded



Trailer, loaded

 

Let’s gooooooo!!!!!

 

I'll try to get some better close up shots of the tires tomorrow, if anyone is interested/curious.

More on the trailer plug, and the maddening pursuit of related issues... maybe someone here will have some insight

I installed a new oe 7pin/4pin combo. At work, we run a 6 pin semi-style setup on all our trucks and equipment. SO I purchased a 7pin to 6pin adapter. ISSUE IS: whenever I use either turn signal, both lights on the trailer flash. All lights on the truck work fine, truck only signals correct side.

So I'm thinking, okay, ground issue - the trailer is old, it has some rust issues, easy... I start going through wiring on all of the trailer - I find several faulty wires/connections, but the problem persists.

Somewhere in the midst of this, I decide I should check my truck side connection and adapter. Take the truck to work, plug it into another (also old, also rusty, also needs to be taken out of service, but lights work on other trucks) trailer, and none of the lights are working right, everything is flashing. I use the adapter on a 7pin port on an F750 to the 6 pin on a trailer - everything works correctly. SO at this point I'm thinking I have a ground fault on the truck side somewhere. BUMMER.

I use my multimeter to test resistance at ground on 7pin and on adapter - both good. I check for voltage at the signals while flasher is on - good, and only getting voltage at correct pin for flasher. 4 pin plug tester shows 4 pin connection is good.

I trace the wiring on the truck, looking for loose or broken wires, or anything unordinary - nothing shows itself. I add a redundant ground from the ground wire on trailer plug, to clean body metal. Problem persists. I add a redundant ground at my tail light, thinking maybe something happened when I positapped it for the camper shell (brake light and signal are same wire on trailer). Problem persists. I run a jumper from clean metal on the trailer to clean metal on the hitch. Problem persists.

I replace every fuse to do with signals and lights, as well as all fuses to do with towing/trailer on the truck side. Problem persists. Thinking maybe it's something to do with the flasher relay on the truck and the led lights on the trailer, I swap trailer signal/brake lights to halogen. I'm thinking, maybe led isn't giving the correct resistance, and pushing through to the other signal, idk. In this case, signals stop working entirely, and all other lights flash instead (WUT). I ground those directly to clean metal on the trailer, and try several different combos of wiring, nothing makes a difference. I return to the led lights, things work as they were before.

I try my brother-in-laws trailer with a 4 pin connection (4 pin on the truck is tapped OFF OF the 7 pin). Everything works, signals work, as well as all other lights. Confounding.

At this point, Im stumped. I think I'm leaning back toward the trailer having a ground issue. And the other trailer I hooked up to at work also having a ground issue, leading me to point towards the truck as the common denominator. I would consider just rewiring the trailer with a 4 pin connection, but it has a brake on the axle, and I plan to haul some heavier equipment where trailer brakes would be nice.

Anyways, long read, not entirely truck related. Anyone have any ideas??