Alignment

Installed 5100s on my 15 DC top setting, at the dealership for a alignment , any help on parameters i know nothing about alignments

 

From another site but what I've followed since new with good results.

Camber: Between .0 and +.1 degree camber on both sides (matching)
Caster: As much as possible without sacrificing camber or causing a cross caster pull.
Toe: +.12 degrees per side for a total toe of +.24 degrees

*** Edit *** these are within factory spec, but are more precise. Force them to work on the caster.

 

Told the service advisor the specs i was looking to get based on the info i got on here and this is what i ended up with , what do you think , again i know nothing about alignments truck seem to drive straight and doesn't pull but i dont want any weird tire wear , this was done at the toyota dealership also not sure if this makes a difference but the truck has 1.5” spacers on the wheels

 

Someone else can chime in, or you can search (top right, magnifying glass) to get a bit more informed on it, but if I were you, I'd be asking them to explain what, exactly, they did other than adjust the toe.

That .9 and 1.0 camber is going to continue to notorious Tundra edge wear.

 

I have 5100s in front in the middle setting. The camber looks slightly off, but still is within the spec. I rotate tires every 5k, they wear down evenly enough for me to notice any baldness before AT looks like not AT anymore. Alignment got only better with steel offroad bumper + winch and steel skid plates all the way to transfer case, i.e. they ate some lift.

If you want no camber with lift you need aftermarket UCAs.

 

Im just trying not to have the tires wear
On the edges and i thought with 5100 i could keep oem ucas , trying to figure out of the shop is not doing the alignment right or just half assing it figured id go straight to the dealer to have it done right but im unsure woth these specs and dont know enough about it to Go in Bitching just yet

 

Herd back from the service manager he apologized for lack of adjustment and said its most likely because my truck has been in new england most of its life that the lower control arm eccentrics are frozen and probably need to be replaced along with the lcas and wants me to bring the truck back to come up with a “plan” . Any way i can investigate this myself to see if they are frozen before
I bring it in to call bull shit i just installed the shocks couple weekends ago but didnt drop the lca instead i undid the top ball joint. Is it just a matter of turning the cam bolts or more involved , i have a feeling if i go back they going to try to tell me everything is frozen and needs to be replaced before they own up to slacking on my alinement by doing a toe and go

 

I have mine set up to negative camber, -.3. My caster is at 1.5 and 2.2. Toe is at 13 and 12.8. Tires are wearing out perfect. Before my specs were, camber .1. Caster 1.1 1.8. Toe 12.6. I was getting tire wear. There are a lot of variables to having a perfect alignment. Parts wear out, frozen , rusted parts. Type of tires and pressures you run them at. Are your UCA maxed out. Etc. Also what works for one truck doesn't mean it will work for all trucks. The specs brooks gave are starting points and will get you in the ballpark. They could work out and you will have the most minimal tire wear. My specs are not close to those he listed and I have no wear issues. The guy that aligns my truck, that's all he does. He has learned what works and what doesn't but it also depend on the factors I stated. My wear issue were with BFG KO2 E rated 33" tires. My UCA were also close to being maxed on the Bilstein 6200. Switched to Fox @ 2" of lift and told him my issues before. He made adjustments are here I am now with pretty much perfect tire wear.