Crank No Start - A Chronicle

I hope someone may benefit from this chronicle of my missteps in diagnosing the cause of this problem with my truck.

My truck: 2016 Toyota Tundra SR5 Double Cab 4.6L 2WD (55,410 miles).

Moral of this chronicle: First check the Fuel Pump ECU whenever having Crank and No-Start problem with 2014-2021 Tundra.

Here’s the chronicle of my fuel system problem… (Attached and embedded as URLs are a couple of excerpts from Tundra service manual you may find useful.) URL 1: Fuel System Parts Locations

• August 2022 (Crank and No-start—Episode 1)

o Vehicle was parked outside in front of garage for several hours in the sun. Aftermarket switchblade key was left in vehicle on the center console. Then when attempting to start the engine, it cranked well but wouldn’t start

o I suspected the aftermarket key (as it was a low-cost, likely-made-in-China key) had likely exceeded its thermal limits

o So tried starting with factory key (which had been in the house), and it started right away​

• November 2022 (Crank and No-start—Episode 2)

o Between Episode 1 & 2, no issues starting the engine regardless on which key was used (factory or aftermarket)

o Episode 2 occurred morning of November 17. Truck was in the garage, but outside temp. had dipped to 29°F overnight. However garage temp. likely didn’t get below 45°F

o First failed attempt was with aftermarket key

o Then unsuccessfully tried factory key.

o Also unsuccessfully tried starting several more times throughout the day.

o Truck started up without hesitation morning of November 18 (overnight temp. 27°F)​

• December 1, 2022 (Crank and No-start—Episode 3)

o Between Episode 2 & 3, no issues starting the engine but used factory key only

o Episode 3 occurred on December 1. Truck was in the garage.

o Periodically attempted to start engine on 12/1 & 12/2… no success

o Given I could hear fuel pump when turning key on/off, on afternoon of 12/2 purchased OEM Denso CKP Sensor 196-1003 from Walmart $83.47

o Shipping got fouled up and CKP Sensor didn’t arrive until 12/10

o Periodically attempted to start engine between 12/2 & 12/10… no success

o 12/10- Installed CKP Sensor; and engine started without hesitation​

• December 26, 2022 (Crank and No-start—Episode 4)

o Between Episode 3 & 4, no issues starting the engine; again only used factory key

o Episode 4 occurred on December 26, after not using the truck from 12/23-12/26, and after several days where outside temp. stayed below 32°F (and down in single digits overnight)

o Periodically attempted to start engine on 12/26 & 12/27… no success

o 12/27 noon, decided to have truck towed to Toyota of Cleveland

o 12/27 4PM, tow truck arrived, however driver announced the tow truck he brought wouldn’t work because our driveway which is 600ft and uphill grade with 3 turns (1 at top & bottom, and 1 mid-way down). He planned to return in the morning with a different truck but offered to check out the no-start symptoms. I almost told him not to waste his time, but instead opened the garage door. After hearing the crank-no-start, he asked whether I had checked FP fuse & relay. I said not since episode 3 but thought I could hear FP activate when turning key on; and asked him to listen while I turned on the key. He didn’t hear the FP activate. So, we checked the 25A fuse (it was good); and swapped the fog light relay with FP relay—and the FP still didn’t activate when turning key on nor when attempting to crank. Then as driver said as he was exiting the garage, “We could try old school as a last-ditch attempt.” He explained what he meant… He’d crawl under the fuel tank and bang on it as I cranked. I cranked and on his 3rd bang, bang, bang; the engine started. He and I were then convinced it was the FP on its last legs.

o 12/27 5PM- ordered FP 232200S011 from parts.toyota.com​

• December 30, 2022 (Installed new FP)

o After a long crank (~3 or 4 seconds) truck started; and I drove it about 5 miles.

o Decided to attempt to drive it again later that evening​

▪ Again started but after extended crank (~3 or 4 seconds)

▪ After about 2 miles it threw MIL light

▪ Drove home, checked on ODB scanner, and found 2 codes: P0171 & P0174

▪ 12/31 & 1/1 drove a couple more times (~5 miles each time) with scanner collecting live data​

• Each time it took extended crank to start

• Once started it operated well…wouldn’t know there was any issue as it was smooth at all rpms and had good acceleration

• Long-term trim on both banks however told a different story as they were constantly reading ~40%

• Fuel efficiency was ~10 mpg (rather than its typical 16 mpg)​

▪ 1/1- Didn’t relish the idea, but dropped the fuel tank​

• Inspected for kink(s) in internal supply line. Didn’t find any.

• Inspected small seal/o-ring on output port on top of FP. It looked OK.

• Re-installed fuel tank​

• January 1, 2023 (Crank and No-start—Episode 5)

o Episode 5 occurred on January 1, after inspecting/re-installing FP & fuel tank

o After confirming that FP wasn’t activating when key on nor when cranking, performed 1UR-FE Fuel Pump Control Circuit Inspection Procedure (see URL 2: Fuel Pump Control Circuit Inspection Procedure)​

▪ While this procedure calls for using Techstream (which I don’t have) all the procedure except step #13 can be performed without it

▪ Problem now isolated (by following this procedure) to FP ECU or the vehicle ECM

▪ Learned from Toyota of Cleveland service manager that the ECM warranty is 8 years or 80K miles.

▪ Ordered (on E-Bay) inexpensive FP ECU ($39) which claims to directly replace OEM p/n 8957134070
​

• January 3, 2023 (Waiting for FP ECU to arrive)

o Will report results after installing FP ECU​

 

Did you visually inspect the fuel pump ecu? I know some guys especially up north had bad corrosion and dirt build up all around the ecu. Its mounted on the rear frame rail and can be subject to pretty harsh environment.

 

It looks okay (see picture). Albeit I've got a new one on order, I plan to bench test this suspect one today.

 

January 3, 2023 (FP ECU bench test)

o Since tracking status on FP ECU was showing 1/9 decided to bench test the original FP ECU​

o First verified FP ECU inputs B+(pin 6), E(pin 3), FPC (pin 5). They all checked out OK​

o Next with FP ECU on bench, connected +12V to B+ and FPC; -12V to E. FP ECU FP(pin 1)/FP-(pin 2) output was 11.4V. This output was within range.​

o Concluded FP ECU was OK​

January 4, 2023 (Removed FP and inspected)

o Discovered the FP Spacer p/n 23225-23010 was missing

o Highly suspected this was cause of low fuel pressure and lean codes, so order FP Spacer p/n 23225-23010 and new FP O-Ring p/n 90301-A0021 (for good measure)​

January 8, 2023 (Installed new FP Spacer & O-Ring)

o Now starts immediately when cranking as it should

o Checked “live data” while idling. LONGFT1 read 0%; and STFT ranged 2% to 9% when moving slowly in Drive and Reverse.

o Believe all is good now. Will make a final post after more extensive road testing.

o Attached several pictures that may be of value to someone​

 

• January 9, 2023 (Results after running errands with truck today)

o Drove ~ 25 miles (city/rural) while monitoring live data with ODBII scanner
o Truck ran well and STFT1 & LTFT1 performed normal -- LTFT consistently between 3 and 8%; STFT fluctuated either side of 0%
o Trust this is the last post of this chronicle... now counting my truck not needing to be in the position pictured any time soon (like is expected of Toyota Tundras) ​

 

This thread is honestly underrated. Good detail, photos ect and a good fix that would have been hard to find as you know. A simple spacer and o ring cause so much trouble.

Nice work and thanks for sharing. This could really help someone in the future.

Also where are the 1JZs at? I have an 88 Supra with I did a 1JZ swap on about 10 years ago. Unfortunately it’s been parked in the back of the warehouse sitting for a long time.

 

Thanks for your kind words! Regarding your 1JZ: Don't sell it! I also have an 88; in addition a 91. Currently the exterior on both are rough, but great integrity (zero rust). I keep them both operational, but ECUs in both need to be replaced. I've replaced caps, but they still intermittently go berserk. This picture was ~6 months ago... I was doing some work on the 91; and the black 88 is in the background.

 

Mine but this photo is 10 years old now. College got in the way..

Originally a 88 7MGE Auto car. Now a 1JZ R154 car. Ecu is an AEM stand-alone for 2JZ. Car made almost 500hp to tire on pump gas. Dad bought it for $600 from a junkyard for my 16th birthday. Had a hole in the block and no wheels and tires ect.

I need to go get it out it’s been sitting for years…

 

Also dads best friend in high school bought a 91 7MGTE R154 white on white targa car off the showroom floor. It was the car my brother and I loved as kids and the reason I got mine.

We ended up with the 91 about 5 years ago when dads friend the original owner was ready to let it go. It’s in the same warehouse parked next to mine.


Dad keeps telling me to come get mine and I told him I wanted both. He said okay, if only I had somewhere to put them inside.

 

I just want to throw in here for others researching crank/no start for me it ended up being as simple as the fuel pump relay went bad. Swapped it for the Tow/Tail relay and fired right up. This is on an '08 5.7 with 190K.

 

So just a little confused maybe I’m missing it. What was your crank but no start? Was it the missing FP spacer all a long or was it the FP control module? It seems that it bench tested ok. Did you put the cheap new one on or leave the original? Can you just explain again what you believe was the crank but no start problem please?