2000 SR5 chugs uphill, then died

2000 Tundra V8 464000 miles. I drive 2 hours to work and Monday it started chugging uphill and eventually died and wouldn't restart. Looks like no fuel is pumping. Replaced the fuel pump relay, fuel filter and fuel pump. Checked wires at/near the tank, all good. I live in Georgia, so no salty roads (for the most part). I'm checking the Cam Position Sensor and harness next. Any other ideas that I might try? Thanks for the help.

 

Have you determined if this is a spark issue, or a fuel delivery issue? A simple can of starter fluid (ether) from the auto parts store, spray it into the throttle body, start the truck. If it fires, you know this is a fuel delivery problem, and we can help go from there.

But wait, before that, did you check the timing belt? when was it last done? It needs to be changed every 90k miles per Toyota, but you can stretch that to 10yr/100k miles if you use OEM parts. If it was done recently, you *DID* confirm you routed the crank position sensor harness properly, right? If you didn't, the harness gets nicked by a belt, and the ECU will not allow the fuel pump to run if it cannot communicate with the crank position sensor (NOT the cam position sensor, although it's important too, and you should check its harness also didn't get destroyed, look under the driver side timing belt to confirm). For examples of the harness damage and how to verify routing, see the last bullet point in the "Electrical stuff ... and keys" section of THIS THREAD.

Curious to know also, did you buy an aftermarket pump, or did you go with Toyota/Denso brand? I ask because we've had a stupid number of people who've haid DOA starters and fuel pumps bought at the local parts store. Aftermarket parts have gone to complete and utter shit in quality the last several years. It's why they offer lifetime guarantees: They know you'll be back in a couple of years. I cannot impress upon you enough that, with the starter (and no-start issues are often not the starter!!!!) and the fuel pump, and the coil packs, you absolutely want to stick with Denso brand, or buy it for more $$ from a stealership (but buy online thru Toyota's parts site for a discount over what they give you at the counter).

As if it need be said, never, ever, ever buy your auto or appliance parts from scAmazon or fleaBay, counterfeits are rampant, even if you think you're buying direct from the manufacturer's storefront (scAmazon automagically gives you the lowest price seller that offers Prime, for example).

 

Go buy yourself a can of starting fluid, spray a couple of shots in the intake and see if it turns over. If it does, you've got a fuel delivery problem. If it doesn't, you're going to start to look at ignition/spark.

 

Definitely fuel related. Timing belt good. Not getting power to the fuel pump. Relays good. Checking wires.

 

You’ll only get power to the fuel pump when cranking and when the engine is running

 

This.

But more.

You only get power to the fuel pump if:

• Key is in START position.
• The crank position sensor sends feedback to the ECU saying, “I’m running”, which means some stupidass didn’t mis-route the crank position sensor wire harness while doing the timing belt (and it got cut by belt), and the crank position sensor is actually good.
• The ECU is functioning properly and continuing ground on the relay
• None of the EFI fuses are blown.
• The fuel resistor is good and functional.

That’s not an exhaustive list, and some bullets are conditional cases. But there’s definitely more to it. Fuel pump shouldn’t have power just because the key is at “ON” position. IIRC, it would only have power in ON position if the crank position sensor fed back to ECU, “I’m running!”

There’s a great link to a video on testing fuel pump on a basic level, along with fuel system explanation and diagram from the FSM of how it all works, buried in several posts of this forum.