Lisle 22800 stud installer - no good for front studs?

Happened to purchase a

$24 Lisle 22800 Wheel Stud Installer

Lisle 22800 stud installer a while ago on the recommendation of forum members here. And this weekend had the need to use it.

Busted a front stud reinstalling my wheels on Wednesday. Ordered a complete new set of Dorman 610-266 for the fronts.

Did the usual. Removed wheel, removed caliper, removed disc, punched out all the studs on the hub.

Grabbed my highly recommended Lisle stud installer and realized it wont fit on the front.

Eventually wound up using, and subsequently destroying, some old Hobo Freight ratcheting wrenches I had laying around along with my old lug nuts. Thankfully I had ordered new lugs a few months back.

Didn't take any pictures but I more or less used the racheting box end to mimick how the Lisle tool would spin easing stud install. Tried normal box renches or washers/large bolts with limited success.

Anyways, to help future forum members, is there a Lisle-like tool that works on the front studs?

 

Might need the lisle 28950 for trucks/larger studs.

 

Could you have installed the wheel with a couple studs, then used the wheel as a spacer? I keep old bearing races to use as spacers for jobs like this.

 

The issue was the 22800 was too wide to fit on the flange face and center the stud. It was colliding with the raised center of the hub.


After thinking about it last night you would need a spacer to match the height of the center of the hub and a deep shank lug nut to make the

$24 Lisle 22800 Wheel Stud Installer

Lisle 22800 work.

The rolling motion you get with the Lisle tool really helps installing the stud. Using the ratcheting wrench the studs installed smoother and easier than with a static nut or box end wrench as the spacer.

Maybe a thrust roller bearing with a 13mm inner diameter and a small enough outer diameter and a spacer will make front stud install easier. One manufacturer lists their 51101 thrust bearing as having 13mm ID and 26mm OD.


You can see the OD for the Lisle tool is about 39.5mm wide.

 

Looking at the FSM you may just be able to get away with the thrust bearing and the open ended lug nut to install front studs.

FSM calls for just using a washer. Again, the rolling motion of the

$24 Lisle 22800 Wheel Stud Installer

Lisle 22800 makes installation smoother as your torque wrench isn't fighting the sliding friction of the lug nut and spacer across the hub face.

 

Ok, luckily for posterity a stick-on wheel weight fell off and lodged itself between my rotor and dust shield. Gave me the chance to post pictures of what I'm talking about.

The Lisle tool is 39.5mm wide so it collides with the raised center of the hub when centered on the stud.



From flange to hub center is 15mm high.

Flange width is 30mm.

 

Deep socket and a c-clamp would work in this case.

 

I like to overcomplicate things and I wanted to replicate the Lisle tool.

I see your point about using the socket and C -clamp. The active portion of the c-clamp actually rotates while tightening, so you don't work against the friction of the spinning socket or cup on the threaded portion of the clamp. This would be an acceptable solution.

 

Again, to overcomplicate things I ordered stuff from Scamazon to replicate the Lisle tool.

This will allow someone to use a torque wrench to tighten the studs to the FSM prescribed 90ft-lbs.

 

Why are you adding thrush bearings? There's no need to rotate -- you should be pulling straight out. You're just going to crush the rollers.

 

Just because that's what the Lisle tool uses. The twisting motion alleviates the friction of the spacer against the hub face allowing the nut to turn with less effort drawing in the splined stud.

The bearing is 1/2 ID with 15/16 OD, spacer is 1/2 ID with 3/4 OD, and using a flanged M12 x 1.5 nut. This should distribute the force over a majority of the surface of the roller bearing.

It's the whole reason people recommend the Lisle tool to begin with. It makes installing studs easier.

There is more than one way to get to New York. It just depends on how much of a toll you want to pay.

 

I've installed many a wheel studs over the years. Well over a 100 of them. I didn't realize that there was a company that sold a tool to make it more expensive and complicated than it should be. First i smear a little bit of anti seize on the lug stud knurls. Then i smear a bit more on the threads. Then i smear a bit more between the friction points on the hub and lug nut. The reason is because it allows the lug nut to rotate much easier. FYI, i also use a flat washer in between the open ended lug nut (and turn the lug nut upside down so that the flat face is against the washer and hub). My no toll Oregon to New York trip takes about 15 seconds per lug stud.

 

I'd be very hesitant to use those standard height grade 8 nuts. I'd look for an extended length nut so that you have more thread length grip.

 

I've only done studs once (10 of them) I just used a bunch of washers and an old lugnut and it worked fine. If I was installing studs often I could see the benefit of a tool as it destroyed the washers and lug nut during the process.

 

I get it. There are multiple ways to get the job done. I'm bored. I changed jobs and am no longer a field mechanic so wrenching on my truck in creative ways is my outlet.

I created a new type of problem for something that already has multiple proven solutions. Just let me have my nerdy fun.

 

I’m not judging. There’s a hundred ways to skin a cat. I was just offering up a simple and free way of doing it, but my way might not work as well for other people.