TB: resolved? didn't jump time and starts

Looks like one of the reinforcement spacers in the plastic covers, to prevent them from crushing/splitting when you (over)tighten the 10mm bolts.

 

I had considered that as well. I seem to recall that somewhere.

I thought I saw something like that not what I would call an ideal design.

 

Those spacers should be pressed into the plastic covers unless the plastic is cracked or deteriorated.

 

Yup. That's it. I was flipping through an install video looking for stuff and noticed that.

I also noticed the fan bracket almost appears to have a pressed spacer in it with similar OD/ID, but I see no way it could potentially come out. Clearly what you have is from the timing cover. Looks like you're gonna be tearing down and a bit there, friend

 

@Weagle Thanks for sharing this all the way through. TB/WP will be something I'll be doing in about a year, and I can just see something like this screwing up an otherwise successful repair.
OH, I'm not an exhaust enthusiast but that growl is like sweet effin music! NICE

 

Thanks! I love it. I just hope I make it to 200 miles by next week.

 

i'm definitely tearing it down all the way


I believe that particular one is on the fan bracket:

 

Most of the tension keeping those bushing spacers in the cam pulley cover is gone if they crack like this one.

 

Was the center one from both the driver and passenger side cover. I had already found the other one

plastic is not cracked or worn other than just being 18 years old. But it is very loose when you slide that sleeve through.

The center one on both sides is much shorter than the others so not as much to hold it


these around the edges are probably twice as long or greater




At least I have accounted for them all

 

Now to find out how that caused it to not start. Dont see any wires to the crank sensor damaged

That's the first time the truck has not started immediately


I have a vague recollection I've seen a video or post where someone tested it down at the crank sensor. Time to research

Edit:
So it sounds like a non-contact voltmeter in order to do a continuity test between the plug and up top outside of the timing belt compartment

if either of the two wires are damaged, it would be within the bottom and driver's timing belt covers.

Then take out the sensor and test it. I assume it is like the other one I saw where it uses magnets together with the movement of the sprocket to create its own voltage

 

Thinking back on this, you could tell the big bump I experienced originated on the driver side. It was very visible on the hood. This is where the "sleeve," for lack of the proper term, from the upper timing belt covers was found when I disassembled - bottom driver's side

I still have to remove the timing belt and Inspect for damage to any and all components (belt, pulleys, etc). But I can't imagine anything other than the sensors preventing it from starting

I've been focused on crank sensor because the crank wiring harness was a common failure when not routed properly after a timing belt change. However, I realized it could also be the driver side cam sensor.

is anybody aware of anything else that would prevent it from cranking since it obviously happened when I heard the big bump?

 

Man I was just wondering if you solved your issue. I guess not yet. Hopefully you'll get it solved soon.

I just filed a claim with PayPal this morning because it's been 9 weeks and I still haven't gotten my ECU. Dude hasn't answered my email in a week.

 

honestly, I've taken a break Because I needed it and because of the heat. But back on it this past week and should have it running this coming week.

I hate to hear that about the ecu. that is really strange. I need to try him this week and if I don't hear from him, I will contact Keith. As a matter fact, I will try to remember to contact Keith Monday since you're having a problem and he wasn't helpful the last time I contacted him.

I know there are plenty of other people that program them, even some here
On this web site. just not sure about allowing for the headers

 

Checked cam sensor but the sensor and wiring are outside of the timing belt covers, so that is not the issue

no damage to the sprocket which works with the crank sensor

crank sensor looks undamaged

the crank sensor wires are protected by conduit from outside of the timing belt covers at the top all the way under the upper middle and lower covers and out through the bottom to the crank sensor. No apparent damage there

Still going to take the timing belt off to inspect all the pulleys, cogs, etc But none of that would cause it not to start


I'm at a loss. Don't want to reassemble in case I'm overlooking something.

Wish I could do a test crank just to see if it starts just for a second without fully reassembling. Not sure if that's even possible with just reattaching the MAF, wiring harnesses etc. Transmission fluid will probably gush is all I can think of. I'm sure I'm overlooking something extremely simple and significant

 

I made a FB post on one of the first gen Tundra groups... that got his attention.

 

Couple things.

First: STUPID CHECK. Verify your fuses. Especially the EFI 1 fuse and others under the hood.

Second: Starter fluid. Yes, you need to partially reasemble things to test. But at least narrow it down to "Is this a fuel delivery problem or a spark delivery problem", you know? Then you're not punching wildly in the dark.

Third: Don't lose hope. This will get figured out.

 

That was my original suspicion. I've seen that type of spacer used on accessory drive components over the years.

But if it is the timing covers where it came from, pro tip in case you're not aware, you can use any gasket-maker or even a blob of grease on the spacers to make them stick in their hole.

 

@Weagle looks like Brandon is going to refund me Monday, but said he plans to keep working on it on the side, and will let me know when he's got it. So that's about as good of an outcome as I can hope for at this point. Seems like lots of people are happy with his work, so it may be worth the wait. I just didn't want to get screwed out of a few hundred bucks if it never comes to fruition. Anyways, we're all good now.
Sorry to thread jack ya.

 

Cannot explain this other than a few WAG's.

I had a gut feeling so I put it together enough to give it a crank this morning without any further troubleshooting and it started and ran smoothly for a couple of seconds until I turned it off.

it's all torn down so I'm still going to remove the timing belt and check for damages from the foreign object (spacer/sleeve) but otherwise it appears all good so far.

 

You ever get everything resolved?
What's the verdict on the ECU?
Mine just came in today, but the truck is still at the shop for new gears and LSD.

 

Yes it's running great.

it still idles too high on a cold start at around 2100 RPMs but I don't believe that is ECU related

I didn't get to drive it much with the new ECU and headers before it was down for several months with the timing belt related issues. But I did recall it being the typical tundra cold start at that time. So my only current problem is not the ECU.