Where to start with "New to me" 2005 AC?

So I bought a 2005 AC w/ 155,000 miles. I decided to take it to a dealership for its first oil change and get a full checkup done. I knew that there would be carnage when I got the report. I just wanted their opinion, a "professional" opinion since I am no such thing. They recommended $8k in work.

the list
-timing belt
-valve cover gaskets
-LBJ
-Sway bar links/bushings
-CV axles busted boots and grease everywhere
-Rack and pinion boots busted leaking fluid
-new brakes

So I started this weekend. I did the timing belt/wp. I looked at the valve covers and didn't see any pooling/dripping oil, checked the bolts and they were all under torqued. hopefully that fixed that problem. I ordered OEM LBJ's and will be installing them soon.

So my dilemma is with the suspension repairs. The truck has a lift on it. I'm not sure about what kind of springs it has front/rear but it has 5100's front and rear and and it looks like a 1" block in the rear. The front billies are on the highest setting, #5. it has 285/75/16 Yokahama Geolander MT's on it. Although I do like the look of the truck, It is too high for my use. Just a DD back and forth to work. the tires are brand new and I don't want to buy new ones right now. I know that most of my suspension issues are from the amount of lift that it has on it. I would love to drop the 5100's back to maybe the 3rd setting and remove the rear blocks but I'm not sure if the tires will still fit? They didn't put it on the list but the UBJ boots are blown and they appear to be stock arms.

So what I was thinking about doing was lowering the 5100's to #3 setting, removing rear blocks, getting Napa CV's, Detroit Axle R&P, Suspension Max Sway bar links, OEM LBJ

Do you guy's think the 285's will still fit for the time being?

I'm not sure what Upper control arms to go with the amount of lift that I will have.

I haven't done much research on brakes yet either if anyone wants to make any suggestions.

I don't do any heavy off-roading.

how would you guys approach this project to make this truck reliable for another 200k mi?

thanks for any input.

I attached one photo that I think you can see the rear blocks in.

 

You need to read ALL of this>>https://www.tundras.com/threads/so-you-wanna-buy-just-bought-a-1st-gen-tundra-eh.115928/

 

I have read through it a couple times. Researched the past couple days. I guess nothing in there really jumped out as “the” answer to me. I’m looking for opinions as much as answers here. Like what would you do if it was Your truck.

 

Why wouldn't you get a PRE-purchase inspection? I've seen so many people take it to a mechanic for POST-purchase inspection. It's akin to wiping BEFORE you shit. Ridiculous. I hope you got a good deal on it and planned on DIY. I don't think you'll be anywhere near $8K if you do the work. My point is, perhaps if you knew what it needed going in, you could have negotiated a better deal.

You're on the right track here. Bilstein doesn't recommend anything above the 3rd circlip. You'll need some proper springs like OME 2884 or possible 2885. Then you'll need to address the rear, because you're going to have some squat. You can order an add-a-leaf, but you'll forfeit your overload spring. I'm in a similar situation and I decided to get some airbags due to my want to have a decent, not overly stiff ride. Not sure about the tires fitting when you drop it down. I have a feeling you might need to do a little trimming or opt for some smaller tires. You should be able to keep the UCAs that are on it if you don't go above 1.5"-2". Can just replace the UBJ. Hope this helps. BTW, it's a good looking truck.

 

I would’ve changed out the radiator and thermostat while you were in there to avoid the possibility of getting the pink milkshake especially if you were on the original radiator.

Maybe you did this but you should change out all the fluids including the gear oil and brake fluid if it hasn’t been done. Grease your drivetrain as well.

 

It was a fair deal knowing it needed some work. the body and interior is in great shape. the Frame is probably 95% rust free, nothing major. I planed on diy from the beginning. I was full aware that the suspension need work. i was told that the timing belt was done at 105k by the previous owner, dealership said it was the original belt. When I took the water inlet housing off, there was a paper gasket which isn't factory so it must have been done sometime. Its crazy to me the way that the dealership will price things. They quoted $1800 to do the timing belt, I used the AISIN kit for $180 and did the Denso radiator while I was in there. The thing that I will never understand is the way they price each individual job as if they are not related. As well I'm sure you know, to do the cv axles you have to remove the brakes, disconnect balljoints, and so on...there should be some cost savings there...but anyway.

I'd love to buy new tires but I'm hopping I can put it off for a while after getting this thing back in shape. Any way to tell what kind of springs are on it? do they mark OME springs in some kind of way? To the top of the fender well im at 39". thats with 5100's on the 5th setting and 285's.

 

I didn't change the thermostat but I did put a new denso radiator in. the other things are on my to do list.

 

Concatenation of hours is normal. It’s how the computers run the numbers. And if you’re smart enough to catch it you can dispute it with the service manager but won’t always win, some will throw the excuse, “we do that to cover unforeseen issues” or similar at you.

As for springs, OEM typically were black with colored paint marks on them. Show pics.

 

PS replace your spare tire. It looks crusty as hell.

 

In the 1st pic if that is red paint across both coils, those are OEM coils. You see what I’m talking about right? OEM coils weee black and got tagged with paint across a coil or two, sometimes part of a third, in different colors. The different colors define the different rate/length etc. Someone wrote a breakdown on here somewhere, I don’t remember what red stands for. But it’s something I’ve only seen on factory/OEM coils.

Looks like a 2” block out back. I say that knowing the overload leaf is about 5/8” and it looks around 2-3x thicker than the overload.

 

With the bilsteins lowered, you are likely going to rub at least a little, but probably a lot.
The frame is really good looking, i would buy some rust converter from the Rust Store and use it in a spray bottle and spray all the places with a little rust twice then hit the whole frame with some paint. That is a good looking frame you are pretty lucky.
Sounds like the timing belt was replaced, but the StealerShip is always going to throw you to the wolves and try to scare you to get you to jump on paying them to fix it (at the highest cost imaginable) and yes their computer plans/prices out every single item individually so they rack up additional hours on labor to fix something, even when they are pulling the items off and reinstalling to do something else. This could be viewed as a racket/scam but its just how they do. I often tell others who are not mechanically inclined that are forced to pay dealerships
"you know.... they gotta keep the lights on somehow and their labor rates are one of the ways they stay afloat"
I say that just to try to be nice and understanding but some dealerships go above and beyond and stick it to customers. I have learned over the years what to look for and where to go, and my local StealerShip isnt one.

 

This coil color code scheme was posted on the old TS website a few years back. I’ve also seen threads were people claim blue or red driver side and yellow or white on the passenger side. I’ve never seen anything that looks official from Toyota.

Stock 4X2 coils
- drivers: yellow-white
- passengers: blue-white
Stock 4X4 coils
- drivers: yellow-green
- passengers: blue-green
TRD 4X4 coils
- drivers: yellow-yellow
- passengers: blue-yellow
TRD 4X2 coils
- drivers: red-yellow
- passengers: purple-yellow

 

PS - If you delete the block out back, you'll need replacement u-bolts, current ones will be too long. In a pinch I'd tell you to run to the JY to see if you can get some good ones there, I've found several over the years, but if you want the OEM, HERE YOU GO, you'll need 4, and while MSRP is a little over $40 each my local dealer is letting them go for $28/ea. Washer for the u-bolt is 90201-15012 and you'll need 8. Nut for the u-bolt is 90179-14019 and you'll need 8. You should really install new ones, you have no idea how hard the PO torqued the current ones down and how much the bolts have stretched.

I recommend you start hunting FB Marketplace for smaller tires (a good used set), 265/75r16 should be very findable and will drop you down about an inch, I don't think you'll rub if you're on the 2nd circlip up front, which will give you a little rake, or 3rd clip which I think levels on OEM springs? Truck will ride nicer on the 2nd circlip. I'm guessing you can find nice used tires for $400 or less. Likely 300 or less. I found a used set of 285/70r17 (which are similar to your current tire) for $340, but it cost me actually $180, after selling the steel wheels they came mounted on.

 

I used these:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1077759&cc=1426935&pt=10353&jsn=10

 

For referece: spring color of non trd front driver. This is a 02 4x4 v8 rc:

 

yes thats red paint.

Help me understand why I would need to change from a factory coil to an OME coil. If I'm lowering the truck would the ome coils just give a better ride? I'm a little lost on that subject.

I think this is where I'm going to start. Before I do anything to the front end, I'm going to find some tires first. The Way it is setup now, I get some really bad contact with something when I hit the dip at the end of a driveway turning onto the road with a little speed. I'm sure now there is no way to run these tires after its lowered. Anyone need a set of 285's 5k miles on them? haha

 

Tundra Coil Color Codes:
2007+ Tundra TRD: Drivers, Blue-Yellow Passengers, Yellow-Yellow
2007+ Tundra: Drivers, Blue-Blue Passengers, Yellow-Yellow
2000-06 Tundra Stock 4X2: Drivers: yellow-white, Passengers: blue-white
2000-06 Tundra Stock 4X4: Drivers: yellow-green, Passengers: blue-green
2000-06 Tundra TRD 4X4: Drivers: yellow-yellow, Passengers: blue-yellow
2000-06 Tundra TRD 4X2: Drivers: red-yellow, Passengers: purple-yellow

 

OEM = Original Equipment Manufacturer (aka “factory”)
OME = Old Man Emu.

I think you are misunderstanding my acronyms based on your 1st section of text.

on your 2nd section of text, I also deal with similar rub. And my tires are slightly smaller than yours but not by much. You’ll run worse after, so yes, new tires are in order if you want to get back to a level but little or no rub state. God news is plenty of tires out there with an overall diameter below 32” look aggressive and give extra traction without having rub issues. The larger you go, typically the more balloonish and obnoxious things look unless you can find pizza cutters.

 

this is statement is what I was referring to by changing coils. I'm confused as to what's wrong with my coils? What will I gain from switching to an Old Man coil? Aren't mine holding the truck up just fine?

 

Oh, just realized i missed one. Yes, essentially reducing load on a spring in a strut will typically improve ride characteristics. A lot of people complain about the ride getting harsher with every notch/circlip you raise up on the 5100s (and this is also observed when cranking coilovers up).

 

Well, yes. But what you gain is a longer coil spring that will not be as compressed, therefore a much nicer ride. Also, your almost 20 year old springs have probably lost some of their springiness. I know mine have. I have 5100s with original springs on the 3rd circlip setting. The ride is OK. But I want to get rid of the wallowing in corners while maintaining a level/slightly lifted stance. I've ordered 2884s which I'll install on the bottom circlip on the 5100s that I already have installed.

 

How much changes if I have a dif drop. I wondered why those spacers were between the front skid plate and the frame when I took it off the other day. I was putting it back on today and figured it out.

also measures the blocks in the rear today and they are 1”

 

That diff drop doesn't really do much at all, it only lowers two out of the three mounting points for the diff, so you're only tilting the front down a minuscule amount. They're mostly snake oil/ marketing crap. Not necessary for a lifted truck.

 

Meh. Less angle on the CVs. Not showing all mounting points. Wouldn't make sense to lower only one. Most diff drop kits include all.

 

Barely any angle difference on the CVs and they don't help prevent joint failure in my experience. There's a graph somewhere on here that shows angles before and after. I'll see if I can find it.

And no diff drop lowers the rear mount on these trucks. The rear mount sits on a cross-member. Only two pucks for the front two supports.

 

I'll admit I didn't look at the diff mounts too closely on my 1GT. I did put a diff drop on my 2011 4Runner and it significantly (at least visually) flattened out the CV angles. Thanks for the info.

 

Found the post I was looking for:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/cv-angles.230749/#post-5432474

 

Oooh, that's some megathread content right there.

 

I've got 285/ 75 R16's on mine with no lift at all and they fit fine. That was all previous owners. I do have high clearance bumpers but not sure how much they help. I have noticed some frame rub though, which is obviously sub optimal, but especially for regular town driving it's fine for me, can't guarantee it will work for you though.