Stumpjumper MTB

I see a lot of these around here with mucho expensive bikes on them. I have no personal experience but they look pretty stout
https://1up-usa.com/product/2-heavy-duty

Edit: I should probably remember the link

 

Everyone in my group has 1Up racks or the Amazon Chinese equivalent. They're solid. Good for MTB, road, gravel, and kids.

I use a Bomber Strap for the tailgate. Not so great with the road bike.

 

Thanks

 

Are carbon bars better than alloy? I'm not an aggressive rider but a few jumps here and there nothing too high off the ground, also are carbon wheels worth it? Apparently the bike I bought used from the seller was supposed to have them, but he took off and switched from another SJ mtb that had alloy wheels

 

Carbon should/could allow more flex and comfort. And be lighter. But, you know, we're talking ounces here, generally. Parts such as frames, you'll usually see a bigger difference in weight. But, still.
Aluminum should take more of a beating, but all can depend on the quality of the parts. Carbon costs more of course.

I'm not a huge, serious mountain biker. Just dabble here and there from time to time. Unless I was seriously trying to win at the pro level (I'm 48, that's never going to happen), I personally wouldn't use carbon wheels. Frames, sure, and handlebars, maybe. I'm looking for durability more than speed.

 

Just stumbled across this thread. Mainly over on TW bikes and trucks thread bsin around but i do ride, just the red headed step child of the stumpy, a 160 status.

Here it is in all of its aluminum glory minus carbon bars and rear hoop

 

Man I miss riding Santa Cruz, the campus trails are so sweet. The status seems like a killer bike for the price though! And there's something to be said about aluminum bikes, they have a different flex characteristic compared to carbon.

 

I swapped to carbon bars to help get rid of arm pump on long descents. For normal riding it doesn't make a difference. Carbon wheels yield less unsprung weight. Like mentioned above, I would rather have durability though, especially at a hobby level.

 

It's fantastic for the price point. I happened to snag one when they were on sale for $2,299, dont know if ill ever see something that cheap again from my LBS. Id like to ride a full 29er at somepoint to compare on the local trails around me to compare the two.

 

Do you have the Amazon link to the knock offs?
Thank you!

 

Rhino Bilt E-Bike Rack 2 Bike Double Hitch Mount w/Ramp eBike Heavy Duty

Here

 

Just gave mine a bath last night, need to put fresh sealant later today, the OneUp rubber seal at the bottom of the dropper post keeps slipping out, the DP doesn't rise up quickly as it should, any suggestions on what to do???

 

Outside of improper tension, the majority of the time that I've had problems with dropper post being slow to activate was due to the shift cable. I've used bike grease (and even white lithium grease) on the cable and that tends to do the job. I also had a kink on one my dropper post shift cables which caused it to stick, and same solution took care of it.

My rule of thumb, if you can "feel" the cable moving or hear it traveling through the cable housing when you activate the lever, it's time to grease that sucker.

 

100% agree and I'll add that the seal at the bottom of the dropper post is definitely a wear item. If it's slipping out, then in my experience it's time for a rebuild with fresh seals. Or super glue it in place, either way lol

 

I just realized @TXRailRoadBandit73 mentioned the OneUP seal (I admittedly glazed over that when I first read the post). That might actually be the issue in this case, simple fix to disassemble and replace if it's worn, but might need additional grease.

 

Yeah this deal keeps popping off and not staying seated

 

Upgraded to the wireless shifter, rear derailleur, with rear cassette and chain

 

Did you go AXS or Transmission? My bike shipped with AXS and I sold it in favor of XO Mechanical shifting and I'm quite happy I did.

 

Sram AXS, bike shop told me my bb was still in good shape as well as chain ring

 

Anyone know what's going on with my rear brakes?

So my SJ came with Sram CODE RS brakes, and just recently I upgraded new pads as well as rotors, and I just noticed that the rear pad was only being pushed from one side, are the code rs 2 or 4 piston? So I decided to do my own bike maintenance, pulled the pads out and used a can of air to clean around the pistons and put a drop of oil around each one, after that I noticed only one piston coming out on its own, I couldn't push back in lightly, so I saw a youtube video to let some brake fluid out, like 6 to 9 drops, the piston went back in and I put the pads back in and then I put the wheel back, now no breaks at all, took to a bike shop cause I didn't wanna meet it up anymore, got the bike today and the rear feels spongy and barely any stopping power, I can still roll while hitting brake hard, anyone have an idea what's going on? Shop was $50 for that service, anything that I can do or look for another shop?

 

It would probably be worth your time to do a rebuild on your caliper then get a fresh bleed as it sounds like you have some frozen pistons. I've also heard good results of people putting rubbing alcohol in a spray bottle and misting the pistons then cleaning with a Q-Tip to help free them up. Obviously pull the pads in either scenario, but I think those should work. You can take it back to the same shop and show them that the pistons are not moving freely. That should trigger the rebuild or service again as well. Or this could be a great opportunity to upgrade to the new Maven brakes! Those look so sweet.

https://www.worldwidecyclery.com/pr...d9AYvhWoQ_RZV4AgCCrOch2Jb1LgqIkeFJPQzTIz76Oi6

 

And a recent pic for the group.

 

Yeah, Mavens = $$$$$$$$

Gonna go with SRAM RSC

Tried the alcohol thing with q-tips and a small drop of DOT fluid and nothing, went ahead and pulled entire rear system off and trashed it, I'll be ordering the RSC soon

 

Solid move. RSC's with a good bleed are a great setup