What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Conflicting post. I want to like for TRD badge. Want to dislike for the scumbag.

 

POS Dodger owner, Ughhh. doesnt surprise me!

 

The Chargers and Challengers are the new Honda Civics of the 90s. Owners are ate up with the dumbass.

 

I don't, but it varies from chassis to chassis and amount of lift.

The closer you can get to those numbers the better. But if lift and components prevent you from getting all the way there, it is what it is.

Looks good enough. I prefer a bit more negative camber if there are curvy roads or freeway on/off ramps that are curved.

I was getting excessive outside edge tire wear at -0.3 camber but I also corner a bit harder than most so ymmv.

 

And Nissan Altimas...

 

I can’t tell if they’re still at “C” or not. Tires still rub at full lock on the back at the frame. I’m not well versed in camber/caster, what does it mean that I have these numbers instead of the ones recommended? I will be going around with a torque wrench for my lug nuts@85, ubj@150 and lbj bolts-90105-12316. Should I torque these to 59ft/lbs or go higher?

 

Yup - wife drove my 2018 CrewMax the other day and some similar heinous anus shit bag put a 5 in long deep scratch in the rear passenger door along with a matching one inch deep scratch in the front at a parking lot in Columbia. Because it was on the passenger side she didn’t notice it until I later saw it. My first scratches on this truck. Wish I had seen the asswipe who did it - I might have gone postal on him.

 

The shit part about it is, some dickbag from NC ran me out of my lane a few months back leaving a restaurant, and I tapped a Tesla's front bumper with the rear tire of our 2020 Highlander. The Tesla already had some damage, I just left a rubber rubout on the front bumper, barely tapped it enough to kick it enough for the chimes to go off.

Zero damage to our car. Only the tire made contact.

I could've easily just driven off and called it a day but I left the dude my info. Knowing I was probably going to get blamed for all the damage (it had damage on both sides, which he admitted to me openly). The dude didn't have Sentry mode on, so had no idea what hit him. Didn't even see my note under the windshield until a couple days alter, when his wife saw there was a little xtra damage on the car, more than usual.

I don't know what happened with the case. USAA called me, I gave them the story, pics of before/after, and they covered it. And with their accident forgiveness, we didn't take any hit on rates. But I have no doubt dude probably hit the lottery that day in that I tapped him in one of two places on his car where he already had way more damage.

It sucks people don't want to own up to their mistakes anymore. Things are going down the shitter that way.

 

I'd be cool with what you have numberwise.

Top nut on the SPC UBJ takes 150 ftlb of torque per the instructions. I think the lower is 45, but is held in with cotter, so shouldn't be going anywhere.

For the rest, the LBJ bolts you listed and everything else, see here: https://www.tundras.com/threads/wha...-gen-tundra-today.2558/page-2122#post-3682230

There was a typo in the FSM. They say 48. I torqued to 59 when I did mine and used blue loctite. I've had no issues yet.

 

I was looking at that lbj bolt comparison page and saw the 59# but that spiker says it can go up to 80#. I’m cool with 59, it’s not going anywhere

 

Extra degree of caster is no problem. When others have used the solo lower arms (1" further forward) they were happy set around 4.5° of caster.


59 ft lbs is correct, as @shifty` said.

 

Happy and sad all at the same time...

 

I haven't been in GA in a long time, wasn't me!

 

Verify correct function of pcv and your breathers at front & rear diff's, and maybe two others.

 

but then this would happen….

 

Reminds me of the 'lemme tell you about my 5.7" meme.

 

Found my next head unit. A little pricey at $1200.

 

Those are really cool. Tagging @FrenchToasty for input. Note, there's a bass/volume add-on knob you can get for a more-OEM feel, and a screen protector that'll make it smudge-proof. Halo9 fits the dash nicely in our trucks, Halo11 not so much.

I'd love to have one, but it'd likely trigger a windowsmash if I ever parked on the street. Living in a high density area has its pros and cons. More bodies, more cars, more chances for opportunistic crime.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-V7qW4lTXnk​

 

There's a sticky thread for that.
https://www.tundras.com/threads/power-steering-flush-how-to.85254/
You don't need to be starting the truck when turning the wheels back and forth, and make sure the front wheels aren't touching the ground while you're doing it as well.
The hose method is really the best way to get all the old fluid out.

 

Drove a couple hours to buy my new hunting camper. Been hauling my trailer down bad roads in the fall, which often means muck season, and really rough, and it's been getting the crap beat out of it. Also jackknifed coming down a hill a couple falls ago. Once the roads are bad enough to need chains, you kinda need chains on the camper too. A lot of work.

Anyway, benefit of this is that for now, I can haul it on the trailer. Take my time and spend as I can afford it getting my truck ready. Which I think just entails getting some anchor points mounted.

This thing is light. Even with the truck bed, I would have forgotten it was there on the drive home if I hadn't been cautious and kept O/D off, so I was only going 70mph. Guy told me he figured the entire setup, camper and trailer, are probably ~1,200lbs. Going to be no problem in the back of my truck.

For any Ford lovers...yes, this 70s Ford convinced a Toyota to carry it around. Definitely a Grandpa-style setup right now.

 

That camper is gonna be so sick, cant wait to see it on the truck!

 

I love USAA! Every scratch and ding has been covered so far. and a new Paint job lol

 

Nice, I already have 2 knobs for Base control from Epicenter. I want steering wheel controls plus a newer steering wheel with shift lights lol(only 1K)

 

Yeah I might do some photoshop today to get an idea.

 

This weekend I changed out the figure eight gasket on oil cooler plus pressure sensor and middle gasket for peace of mind both were pretty flat. I also added some tracks to my camper shell, pretty productive weekend. ​

 

Got my Foxbeam TS + DD SS3 fogs built using Foxbeam's TS SS3 kit for Tundra/Sequoia.

Foxbeam's kit includes all the stuff you need, but I went with just the plastics because I had SS3's on hand already. Sadly, had to order roud bezels from DD ($10/ea) because SS3's ICO/standard bezel isn't compatible w/Fobxbeam's setup. I had the adapter pigtails already to make it happen. All-in-all the setup is pretty easy, you just need to swap over the adjuster from your OEM fogs, and button it all up with hardware DD puts in the SS3 box (if you already have SS3s on hand). Install video is here. My only gripe is, when it shows the arrow line-up, the arrow can be lined up even when you have the wrong cone installed, you basically need to make sure BOTH the diagonals on the cone are lined up with the diagonals on the SS3 and the arrows are pointing at each other. At least I sure as hell hope that's the case

Before/after pics hopefully by EOD. I'm currently running some cheapo yellow-tinted OEM repops from scAmazon.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BVkG9U1yQ1A
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EDIT: Forgot pics of the assembled lamps!

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It is a pretty sweet unit, which reminds me I need to order a protector for it.
I think I paid around 400$ when Best Buy had some glitch

 

is this a common fail point ( im new to tundras)

 

Yea it looks more modern than the POS Pioneer unit I have now. Just wish It was a tad bit bigger, like maybe 12-13 inches lol.

 

They make an 11" version