2007 Tundra- need help with this

Hey gang,
I'm helping my buddy with his truck, but *I* need help! haha

2007 Toyota Tundra quad cab
Tow package.
V8

EDIT: I think it's a 2007. Dude said it was 06, but front and the fuse panel s​

Here's the situation:
He let the truck sit for about a month.
Battery died.
He installed a "new" battery, but it had been sitting around for a few months. 11.9 V.
I put my "repair" battery charger on it, which has brought many batteries back from the dead.
It now shows 12.5 volts.

Symptoms:
Check engine light is on.
Dash lights/gauges work.

What does not work:
Brake lights
Wipers
Electric seats
Electric Windows
ODB2 port fails to connect to my reader (verified with another car it's working)
No power to the ODB2 port (they generally power the reader/scanner)
Alternator does not appear to be charging the battery -- while running is shows 12.5V (14 expected).
I checked the interior fuse panel and NONE of the fuses have power.

What do y'all think?

Fusable Link?
Where does the interior fuse panel get power from. I checked the 30A fuse on the interior panel and it did not look blown.

BTW the fuse box under the hood looks exactly like this 2007 model:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4v1rcISp23Q

 

Gotta be quick here.

Check your fuses under the hood. There's a line that runs from the fuse/relay box to the cab. One is popped but I can't remember which.

Download a copy of the FSM for '05-'06 from the 4th or 5th paragraph here. I believe you'll potentially find the info there.

Grab a copy of the EWD for your year here.

I looked at an online representation of the DC fuseblock, and it's showing a multi-slowburn at this location at 140A that would appear to cover those circuits. It also showed fuse 29 and 30 as covering a couple of the others. But I think you need to unbolt the fuseblock (which is tedious w/o breaking shit), and look for shorted/melted connection(s).

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Thank you. By "multi-slow burn" do you mean the fusible link?

 

Snap a pic of your fusebox, along with the cover sitting next to it with legend printed inside, facing up.

If there are multiple fuse/relay boxes in the engine bay (I don't have a DC, dunno) then do it for both. The only online resource I could find showed two. I can only go by the representation they're showing since I have no pictures. And a quick search on MUSB shows something like what you see in the online reference, which doesn't look like anything I've seen before in our trucks:

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And it would look like, to me, it's the green one on the left here I'd be checking to see if it's blown. If not, I'd be checking under the fusebox maybe to see if a connection is fried. Then trying to figure out why, did you arc something? Is there corrosion inside your cable from batt to that terminal at the left of the red box?

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And just to drill the point home, look carefully at your fusebox under the hood (noting there's a second fuse/relay caddy off to the side, look above the red box in my last picture).

Hold the legend below the box as pictured. Orient it the same way. Realize the blue box relates to the MUSB and mini fuse above it. Same with the red box and all the relays. The circuits are printed there. Which circuits are impacted, find the lowest common denominator?

It's highly unlikely (albeit possible) both of those MUSB are partially or fully blown. A multimeter will tell you, if visual inspection shows nothing. However, The lead you see bolted down on the left side of the red box should be (IIRC) coming over direct from the battery, unless I'm having a pre-coffee brainfart. If so, you could potentially test there being an issue with that by throwing a DMM on it, and if problems show, running a temporary jumper in appropriate gauge. But I'd also be looking for shorts or anything melted under the box **IF** none of the links/MUSB/fuses are blown.

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Got some aftermarket wiring there also. Need to clarify which model you’re working on. I suspect it’s the 2007 (brand new model year with almost nothing in common with the 2006). If that’s the case, you need the fuse panel and EWD info for the 2007. With so many thing in disarray, I suspect one of the main fuses is the issue, however, why? Did the battery get hooked up backwards? Is there some aftermarket wiring hooked up in a way that created a short? Hard to believe a dead battery caused this. More like the problem caused the dead battery. Did you check the alternator fuse? Believe it’s a 140 or 180amp fuse.