Suspension question - yet again

First thread.

Just picked up a 2004 DC 4x4. I'm new to the Tundra platform but have experience with Tacomas and 4runners.

Getting ready to order a lift, torn between these specific setups:

Option 1:
Bilstein 5100 front and rear
OME 2885
ATS HD Leaf springs
JBA or Camburg UCA

Option 2:
Bilstein 6112 650lb
Bilstein 5160
ATS HD Leaf springs

This is what the budget allows.

Option 1 is a more complete setup but unsure how 5100s ride in these trucks. Option 2 is an upgrade but missing UCA.

I plan on adding a fiberglass shell (maybe a softopper) in the future. No plans to add any armor. Truck will be used for road trips and camping.

Is the 5100 good enough for light off road use or would it be better to upgrade to the 6112? Mostly fire roads, the occasional rock garden and some technical stuff here in NorCal.

Also for DC folks that have the ATS HD, what lift height did you net at?

Yes - I did search on the forum

 

So the major difference I'm seeing is this: Option 2 is going to offer you true flexibility in height, those 6112 should come with their own springs. Option 1, you're stuck, the 5100 will technically move up and down, but you can't do it cleanly or comfortably because "lifted spring", it'll get uncomfortably stiff for each notch, per some reports.

There's no reason you MUST do 5160 out back with the 6112, you can still do 5100, not sure if it'll save you some bucks. I doubt you're going to notice drastic difference in the ride between the 5100 and the 6112, they both are looking at 650lb springs.

If you plan to lift more than 1.5", you should really add in another $100 for extended swaybar links.

If your LBJ are more than 100k miles old, you should replace with genuine OEM LBJ and fresh bolts; if you currently have aftermarket LBJ or you don't know the history, you should replace with genuine OEM LBJ and fresh boots.

After you lift, you may end up slinging grease if you go higher than 1", you may need to re-clamp your boots.

The ATS HD springs are pretty stout. If comfort is a factor, and you don't want you rear to be stiff as feck, you may want to opt for the Wheeler's add-a-leaf. Avoid the ICON add-a-leaf, it's total bullshit and won't give you more than 0.5" lift out back.

 

I went with 6112 and 5100 in the rear. I have ben very happy with my selection. I also have Camburg UCA, I don't like that the uniball is exposed and I am looking into switching to JBA just because the ease of maintenance but nothing wrong with my Camburg. I probably never will. 4 years in

for leafs I went with Icon add a leaf, but have been window shopping the ATS HD Leafs Springs and read great things. Just looked and the set is on sale rn.

I have a snugtop, sleeping platform and a full size spare in the rear. Very happy with my build. What wheel and tire you planning to go with?

I basically followed this video at the time because there wasn't much info at the time.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5foHvLKGpts&t=10s

Dont forget basic maintenance - Timing belt/Water pump and OEM LBJ,

 

Jerry brings up a good point I glossed over. Bo JBA for your uppers. It's a no-brainer. Sealed UBJ means less maintenance, and it's super easy to pop in/out when needed, relatively. Not as much finagling as the SPC upper, which most shops don't know how to adjust (or refuse to adjust) anyway. You really don't want Camburg, Freedom, KSP, or similar style with a delta/uniball joint because of the added maintenance involved. If you want a lift-and-forget setup, stick with any UCA that has a sealed UBJ. I have some critical words for JBA on here somewhere, but I'd take it over Freedom/KSP any day.

 

I’m hoping to get 2”+ of lift.

My understanding is that the 5100s when paired with the 885 is you use the lowest clip setting since the coils are stiff enough to give 2”+ of lift - I may be incorrect.

Swaybar will be deleted.
New OEM LBJ done.
Will address CV axle as needed.

I think the fiberglass shell will help with the stiffness of the ATS leafs. As more load is added, it should ride better.

I have the 6112 on my 1st gen sequoia and happy with it

EDIT: Also good suggestion on the 5100 rears, missed that

 

All basic maintenance is done. New OEM radiator, WP, TB, thermostat. Just completed at tune up with new plugs.

Good suggestion on the 5100 rears! That saves me a few bucks to put towards other components.

I have a set of SCS F5 16x8 -25 with 285s that I plan on using.

 

I'll be curious to see how that works out for you. At -25 on an 8" wide wheel, you're looking at 3.5" backspace which may poke pretty hard, you may be grabbing wheel well or fender flares with the outer edge.

You sure that width and/or backspace number is accurate? I'd expect 0 offset at 8" to put you at a true 4.5"

 

That should be roughly accurate on height, it'll get you roughly level, maybe a little more, maybe a hair less. My point is more that if you're not happy with that height, you're fucked. You can technically go up one circlip, but recently we had a guy who did that on his 5100s running 2884 I believe (so not apples to apples per se), and he said the ride got harsh AF going up that one notch. 6112s you have a hell of a lot more freedom to go up and down, but it also sounds like maybe Bilstein has done a shit job of accurately describing how much lift you get at the notches on 6112, so I'd consult other DC/4WD guys on here running those for info. Take 3-4 samples, to be safe.

I have a shell. Leer 100R. At one point I had almost 1500lb of APC battery packs in my bed under the shell. The ATS HD springs didn't budge an inch a millimeter. They are STOUT.

 

Yes, the F5s come in that spec.

Here’s a pic of the poke on a sequoia with 315s.



That front fender had to be trimmed with 35s. I plan on being conservative with the Tundra and stick to 33s. A little trim to some plastics, pinch weld hammering and I should be ok with clearance

 

That's about the poke I'd have expected. I see you trimmed the exact spot on the front flare I'd expect you to grab. Were you eating into the pinch and the well/firewall area too?

Still, looks awesome overall. Bet the trash cleanup any time it rained (from sling down the body) was a hassle

 

Officially sold on the ATS HD.

 

I remember running across a thread specific for wheel fitment, can't seem to find it anymore. Would you happen to know what to search for?

 

Yes - with 35s, everything rubs. Trimmed about 1.5-2" from the flare and 2" on the actual fender. Pinch welds were hammered many times. I massaged the firewall a bit but didn't need to tub.

The -25 works well to clear the frame but you suffer somewhere else hence the plethora of trimming

 

See the "Suspension, wheel and tires ..." section over here, maybe has what you need, else it may link out to what you're hunting for: https://www.tundras.com/threads/so-you-wanna-buy-just-bought-a-1st-gen-tundra-eh.115928/