What have you done to your 2.5 gen Tundra today?

What battery to put in my '21
Original Toyota battery is at half strength now

What is the biggest strongest it will fit and what are the pros/cons of such a battery?

Thanks.

 

Took it fishing.

 

Did she catch anything

 

Took the trailer in for its first service:

 

Yup.

 

He said he took it fishing. Nothing was said about "catching".

 

I’ll wet a line for a few minutes as I’m already here, but relaxing with the Mrs. A sandwich, and a few beers. If I bring something home for the freezer then good for me. Just need down time.

 

Look into either a X2 Power AGM, Odyssey or if you prefer to stay with water filled batteries, look at the Interstate varients...AGMs will need a diode in the ALT-S fuse under the hood to trick the ECM into charging it at its preferred rating of 14.6-8volts...the diode is on Amazon, O'rielys, ebay...most places for like $8...more CCA, better amp hour ratings and better in both extreme temperatures of hot/cold...best battery I've ever owned is my X2Power...I have them in ALL of my different vehicles because they work and are very reliable if you charge them at their preferred voltage...

 

That doesn't look like a LI beach.

 

Democrat Point, Suffolk County. Finishing the evening off with a nice Woodford Reserve, poolside.

 

Timely - my original just gave up the ghost. Which X2 battery do you recommend? how many CCA? Can you help the stupid guy with a link to the specific diode replacement?

 

I got mine replaced under the b2b warranty. Have you given that a try?

 

I think that ended at 20,000 or two years
Battery still works, I just want a strong upgrade

 

Hell yeah brutha! https://www.tundras.com/threads/charging-diode-for-agm-batteries.111426/

https://www.tundrastall.134029/

https://www.tundras.com/threads/agm-battery-charging.97564/

Best link is the last...Ford/GM...same coin, different side

930CCA: https://www.batteriesplus.com/productdetails/sli27fagmdp

 

Installed Borne 1” spacers. Running BF Goodrich tires 275/65/18, and Tundra is looking a bit meaner today.

 

$340 for the AGM with discounts (plus diode etc / 930 CCA) - 4 year warranty - assuming 4 years then $85/year
$115 for Interstate/Costco - 3 year warranty [710 CCA] - assuming 3 years then $39/year
Isn't that at worst less than half price? Disregarding warranties it is 1/3 cost. Not to be cheap (well maybe) but is there that great of an advantage to AGM batteries (220 CCA) to pay three times the price? As I read the reviews on here they are mixed.
Edited to add CCA numbers

 

Might be colder where you are, but in Mass, my OEM battery has started no problem at and below 0 degrees. 3 years and fingers crossed. It's fun to upgrade things, but I am with you, without a lot of extra electronics to power, I don't see the point.

 

Pulled into the driveway this morning and missed it by a mile... (not the driveway)

 

The internet is good for wasting money on stuff you don’t need. I just grab the cheap batts and they usually last me about 5yrs in the Texas heat and then I get a new one. Been working for the last 25yrs.

 

Same.

Whatever is on sale. It's a battery. Walmart and AutoZone are everywhere. It goes bad, I change it.

I'm not wasting my time installing an AGM. The reliability isn't great enough for me to offset the extra money they cost.

 

For sure, same can be said with suspension, air filters, tires , etc...I enjoy the faster starts in winter and the higher amphour ratings when the truck isn't running but power is needed for music, et al... go with whatever works for you and enjoy the many options that are available...freedom is awesome!

 

Think I trashed the airbag clock spring removing the steering wheel. It came flying off and unwound itself, and it looks like part of it is torn. How screwed am I?

Can you rewind it? It looks worse than a cassette tape that got eaten by a tape deck.

 

Buy a new one. I’ve never had success rewinding them and if the ribbon cable looks torn then it’s broken.

 

Yeah it's $640. If I want to drive 1hr+ each way or wait until Tuesday with the truck in the middle of the driveway. Then it's about a $100 cheaper.

Guessing that my lightbar, reverse lights and stereo will have to wait.

You always remember the mistakes you make that cost you money.

 

Were you using a steering wheel puller?

I know most say its not needed but I got the one from Harbor Freight for like $14. I haven't used it yet since I still haven't had the time to wrap the wheel. But I thought it was worth the piece of mind.

Sorry yours broke. That definitely sucks. But everyone will mess up something at some point and have to pony up. At least you are safe

 

Costco also has Interstate AGM 24F with 710 CCA for about $200 shipped to your door. Saves a little room and weight is a wash with the factory battery.

 

Update on the steering wheel replacement.

Going to test drive shortly but I believe that I got the spring rewound and it's not broken.

 

Boy was I seriously optimistic. Made it to the end of the driveway, started turning the wheel and everything went bonkers on the dash. Looks like I am off to get a new clock spring.

 

Oof, sorry

 

To those owning a gen 2 NSV bulge lightbar that was re-wired to defeat the strobe: the greatest discovery was made...I was swapping out my bulge for one that did have broken tabs...I added some more strength with JB Weld on the tabs that are known to break when anything breaks on the bulge...I figured I might as well try the pin #8 to empty pin #3 I've been wanting to do for years...definitely a tricky depinning but, the video (https://www.tundras.com/threads/nsv-light-bar-question.59292/#post-1704354) works for this; I now have the strobe feature in-lieu of the boring "DRL" look ...I feel like drinking now!! Cheers!!